While Samsung dryers are popular for their sleek designs and smart features, they are frequently cited by repair technicians for a few specific hardware failures. As a repair technician for many years, I can give you insight into the most common problems, and how to fix them.
Read Also: Samsung Dryer Error Codes and Solutions
Samsung Dryer Problems
The most common issues generally fall into three categories: heating failures, noise/spinning problems, and sensor/error code glitches. I’ve created this list of 5 from my experience repairing them.
Pro Tip: Before calling a technician for a “not drying” issue, clean your lint filter and the exterior exhaust vent. About 70% of Samsung heating failures are caused by restricted airflow, which causes the internal parts to overheat and burn out.
Samsung Dryer Heating Issues
If your dryer is running but the clothes are still cold and damp, it’s almost always one of these three components:
1. Burnt-Out Heating Element:
This is the #1 repair for Samsung electric dryers. Electric dryers have a heating element made up of electric coils. Over time, the coils can snap or short out–especially if the dryer is overworked or has poor airflow.
This is one of the most common Samsung dryer problems, as it tends to happen every 3-5 years. Fortunately, it’s fairly easy to replace and not terribly costly.
One of the surest ways to see if the heating element has gone bad is to remove the heating element from the dryer and inspect it. It isn’t difficult to do, but reaching the heating element housing can be time consuming.
How to Fix It:
- Always begin any repairs by shutting off the power supply to the dryer to prevent injury and even potential electrocution.
- Each model is different. Use your manual to identify the exact location on your model, which will be in its housing somewhere near the air vents. To get there, you may need to remove several parts that include the drum and any other components in the way.
- You can look at the heating element in place with a flashlight, but that will not give you a complete picture of the problem. Removing it to test it is best.
- Visually inspect the heating element and see if any of the coils are damaged or grounded. Burnt out elements can give off a burnt smell or have burn marks somewhere along its length.
- Look for breaks. The coils need to be continuous in order to work properly. Coils that are broken and do not complete the circuit are burnt out.
- You will not be able to detect all signs of a burnt-out heating element with your eyes. You will need a multimeter to test the continuity of the coils.
- To perform a continuity test, Set the multimeter to ‘Continuity’ or ‘Ohms’ and then connect one lead to each end of the heating element.
- If the
multimeter reads around 10 Ohms of resistance, then the heating element is in good condition. If the reading does not change at all, the heating element is burnt out. - If the coils are damaged, collapsed, or fail the continuity test, then you need to replace the heating element.
- New heating elements are available on Amazon for around $25. Check your model number and click here. Multimeters are a convenient device to test continuity. Basic models can be purchased for on Amazon for around $22.
For a more detailed description, read also: Samsung Dryer Not Heating
Note: we may receive a small commission off your purchase at no additional cost to you.
2. Blown or stuck thermal fuse
This is a safety device that “trips” if the dryer gets too hot. Once it blows, the dryer will either stop heating or won’t turn on at all. Oftentimes, the dryer will work, but not get hot at all. Your clothes will still be damp when the cycle completes. Blown thermal fuses are usually caused by a clogged lint vent.
The fuse can also get stuck in a closed position. This problem can be dangerous since the role of a thermal fuse is to detect the temperature and prevent fires (by opening the circuit if it gets too hot). This needs to be corrected immediately.
Here is how to determine whether or not the thermal fuse is burned out on your Samsung dryer:
- Unplug Dryer: Always unplug your dryer before troubleshooting and messing around with the interior parts.
- Find The Fuse: Find where the fuse is located either by consulting your user’s manual or looking online.
- Remove The Access Panel: Remove the access panel by using a screwdriver to unscrew the screws and disconnect the wires from the fuse.
- Test The Fuse: Finally, test the fuse to see if it’s blown. Use a multimeter to do so.
- Replacement thermal fuses come in a 4 pack for around $10 on Amazon. Click here. It is helpful to have more than one, just in case the fuse blows again. They cannot be repaired. You can also get a thermal fuse along with the heating element and replace both at the same time. Amazon. $25-50. Always check your model number.
Defective Thermistor:
This sensor monitors the internal temperature. If it fails, the dryer might prematurely shut off the heat to prevent overheating, even if the clothes aren’t dry.
For a detailed description on diagnosing and replacing the thermistor, read: Samsung Dryer Not Heating
Loud Noises and Spinning Problems Samsung dryer
Samsung dryers are known for developing “squeaks” or “thumps” after a few years of use:
3. Worn Drum Rollers
If your dryer is making a grinding noise, you likely have worn Drum Rollers. This common issue associated with both Samsung and non-Samsung dryers alike.
The drum sits on several small wheels called rollers. If the internal bearings dry out or the rubber wears down, you’ll hear a loud squealing or rhythmic thumping. The damaged or worn drum roller causes the drum to not tumble freely.
How To Fix it
To see if the drum rollers are worn down or damaged, you will need to disassemble your dryer.
- Always begin by disconnecting the dryer from the power source.
- Remove the top panel, the front panel, the bulkhead, and the drum. With these parts removed, you will have free access to the rollers.
- Inspect the rollers to see if they are damaged or worn down.
- If the rollers are damaged, you will need to replace them with new ones. Amazon carries replacements for around $17-20. Click here. You just save a lot of money!
Even if only one drum roller is damaged, you should replace all of them to prevent premature grinding in the future. While you have everything apart, now is the time to take care of all rollers. It would be a pity to have to do it all again in a few months for another bad roller!
4. Idler Pulley Failure
One common problem that is common in Samsung dryers specifically is that the idler pulley roller fails. This part maintains tension on the belt. It is a notorious “weak point” in Samsung designs and often emits a high-pitched screeching sound when it starts to seize.
The purpose of the pulley is to keep the dryer belt under tension as it wraps around the dryer’s drum. You can see the white idler pulley below and how it activates the belt safety switch (red arrow) when the belt breaks and tension is relieved.
When the idler pulley roller fails, the dryer will be accompanied by a squeaking noise or it won’t start at all.
How to Fix it:
- First, always unplug the dryer.
- Identify all of the screws securing the top section to the body of the dryer. Remove the top.
- Remove the front panel and allow the dryer drum to slump forward.
- As it is slumped forward, inspect the pulley that will be located beneath the drum. Check the spring mechanism.
- Inspect the pulley bearing. If it does not turn freely, try lubricating it to see if this fixes the problem.
- If this does not correct the problem, replace the part by pulling out the axle with pliers.
- Replace the pulley wheel and put the axle back into place. You can get a kit with both the idler pulley and drum rollers for $20-30 on Amazon.
Note: we may receive a small commission off your purchase at no additional cost to you.
Snapped Drive Belt:
If the motor is running but the drum isn’t spinning, the belt has likely snapped or slipped off the pulley. Replacement belts come in the kits above, or you can purchase them separately for $10. Click here.
Samsung Dryer Electrical Issues
5. Control Board Motor Relay Stuck in ON Position
Finally, the last of the common Samsung dryer problems (on older models) is that the Control Board motor relay gets stuck in the ON position. You will know that this is the problem whenever your dryer continues to spin, even after the dryer cycle is finished. You’ll need to open the door to even get the dryer to stop.
To fix this problem, you need a new main control board. Check the prices before you proceed.
How to Fix it
- Begin by unplugging the appliance and disconnecting the top from the main cabinet. You will need to unscrew some screws to do this.
- After you remove the top, you will see the main control board.
- Remove the main control board by disconnecting the wires and removing them from the retaining tabs.
- Pull off the defective control board. Then, place the new control board into place and reconnect the wires. Place the top back onto the dryer.
A control board is an expensive part to replace on the dryer. They begin around $155 on Amazon, and can be more depending upon the model number. You may want to consider replacing the entire dryer, if it is an older one.
Sensors and Error Codes
Because Samsung dryers are tech-heavy, they are prone to digital errors:
Clogged Vent Indicators: Many models have a “Vent Sensor” (often displaying codes like Clg, C80, or C90). These aren’t necessarily “broken”—they are doing their job by telling you your house ductwork is restricted and needs cleaning.
Moisture Sensor Issues: If you use a lot of dryer sheets, a waxy buildup can coat the sensor bars inside the drum. This “tricks” the dryer into thinking the clothes are dry when they aren’t, causing it to end the cycle early.
| Error Code | Meaning | Likely Fix |
| HE or HC | Heating Error | Check heating element or thermal fuse. |
| tE or tS | Temperature Sensor | Clean or replace the thermistor. |
| dC or dE | Door Error | Ensure the door is latched or check the door switch. |
| 9C1 | Voltage Error | Check the power cord or wall outlet voltage. |
Read this detailed guide on Samsung Error Codes.
How Samsung Steam Dryers Work: A Quick Guide
A Samsung steam dryer operates much like a traditional dryer—tumbling laundry in a drum while circulating heated air—but with the added benefit of Multi-Steam technology. During specific cycles, a small nozzle inside the drum sprays a fine mist of water. When this mist meets the high internal temperatures, it transforms into steam that penetrates fabrics deeply to refresh and sanitize them.
Key Steam Cycles and Benefits
Samsung steam dryers offer three primary specialized cycles:
- Refresh: A 15-minute cycle designed to remove odors and light wrinkles from 1–4 dry items, making them ready to wear without a full wash.
- Wrinkle-Away: Similar to a traditional “Wrinkle Release” but enhanced with steam to relax fibers and eliminate the need for ironing.
- Steam Sanitize: Uses high heat and steam to kill germs and reduce allergens, making it ideal for bedding, curtains, and children’s clothing.
Setup Requirements
Depending on your model, the water for the steam comes from either a refillable water reservoir or a direct connection to your home’s cold water line using a Y-connector. By utilizing these features, users can reduce water and energy consumption by refreshing clothes rather than re-washing them, while also extending the life of fabrics by avoiding the harsh mechanical action of frequent laundering.
What is the Sanitize Cycle on Samsung Dryers?
The Sanitize and Steam Sanitize+ cycles on Samsung dryers are specialized high-heat settings designed to eliminate 99.9% of household bacteria and common allergens like dust mites. Unlike standard drying cycles that focus on moisture removal, the Sanitize cycle prioritizes hygiene by maintaining extreme temperatures—typically exceeding 150°F—for a prolonged period.
How It Works
Samsung utilizes two primary methods for sanitization depending on the model:
- Standard Sanitize: Uses consistent, extreme dry heat to penetrate thick fabrics.
- Steam Sanitize+: Blasts the load with high-temperature steam during the cycle. This not only kills germs but also helps to refresh fabrics and reduce odors.
Best Practices and Limitations
Because of the intense heat required to kill microorganisms, this cycle is not recommended for normal laundry or delicate items, as it can cause significant shrinkage or damage to fibers. It is best suited for:
- Heavy Duty Items: Bedding, curtains, and cloth diapers.
- High-Touch Linens: Bath towels and kitchen rags.
- Health Needs: Clothes or bedding used during an illness.
Note: For the Steam Sanitize+ cycle to work effectively, items should be at least partially wet. If the load is too small or completely dry, the dryer’s moisture sensors may end the cycle prematurely. Always check garment care labels to ensure they can withstand “High Heat” before selecting this option.
How to Properly Clean Your Samsung Dryer
Maintaining a clean Samsung dryer is essential for maximizing drying efficiency, extending the lifespan of the appliance, and preventing fire hazards. Regular maintenance focuses on three key areas: the lint filter, the vent line, and the internal drum.
Routine Maintenance Steps
- Lint Filter: This is your first priority. You should clean the lint filter before and after every cycle. Simply remove the filter, discard the trapped debris, and ensure it is fully seated before restarting. This maintains proper airflow and prevents the motor from overheating.
- Vent Line: If you have a vented model, lint can accumulate in the exhaust duct over time. A clogged vent is a major fire risk and causes longer dry times. Clean the vent line at least once a year using a specialized brush kit or by hiring a professional.
- Drum and Interior: Wiping down the drum with a soft, damp cloth helps remove residue from dryer sheets or accidental stains from items left in pockets (like ink or crayons). Additionally, leaving the dryer door open for a short period after use can prevent moisture buildup, which helps stop mold and mildew from growing in the warm, humid environment.
By following these simple cleaning habits, you ensure your Samsung dryer continues to run safely and effectively for years to come.
Read: Samsung Dryer Error Code Explained
Read: Common Dryer Airflow Problems
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Have DVE50R5200W. When turned on, display board lights on for a split second then goes out. Thermal fuse has continuity. Tip on what to try next would be very appreciated.
Thermal fuse is not a problem in this case… It’s either user interface board failing, main control board not providing proper power to the user interface board or wiring issues.
I have a new dryer, but after 4 loads, it still has a very noxious odour. Not sure how to describe it, but it is almost like burning rubber. It does not start to smell at first, but quickly becomes almost unbearable in both my laundry room and the adjoining kitchen. Any ideas ?
If its new dryer, that smell should gone
Samsung DV45H7000EW/A2. Died in the middle of a drying cycle. Clothes were wet and hot. No power to digital display. No response from any of the controls. I have checked all thermostats, thermistor, door switch, belt cut off switch, and centrifugal motor switch. Main board low side does not seem to be getting any power when checked at pins 5 and 6 on the terminal from the main board to the digital display board. High side is powered. I get 120 at both the motor relay and the heater relay. I purchased a new main board and it did not fix the issue. Low side still has no power. What am I missing? Thank you very much for any help you can provide.
First of all, check and reset dryer breaker. There are two phases. Phase L1 supply control board and phase L2 go to the heater. So, if L1 will trip, control board will not work, but you will have 120V on the heater and centrifugal motor switch side. i have this electrical diagram for your model. But if 240V power is ok, then I think something wrong with the user interface board.
Please report back on what you found.
Two pole 30 amp breaker is tied together. Neither tripped but tried resetting again. Still not getting any power on the low side of the main board. Should be 12v DC on pin 6 with pin 5 being ground based off of the wiring diagram. Yours is same I found on back of drier. It appears that low side power should come through the black wire on the three pin main board connector that goes through the centrifugal switch. Is that correct? I removed and cleaned the centrifugal switch contacts with sandpaper. Resistance across the centrifugal switch is the only thing I am finding a little off from specs. 3.4ohm between pin 3-4 instead of 3.05ohm and 3.6ohm between pin 4-5 instead of 3.35ohm. Could there be a break in the wiring? Loom is undamaged but considering unwrapping it all to inspect wiring.
“It appears that low side power should come through the black wire on the three pin main board connector that goes through the centrifugal switch.” – No, there is 120V going through the centrifugal switch. Low side power 12V only for the control board needs (to operate relays or power-up display, etc) For the centrifugal switch there are many videos on youtube on How To Test Dryer Motor
I suppose you have a faulty user interface display, bad wire connection, or faulty main board.
My Samsung dryer has a HE error code. I’ve cleared both filters, unplugged it and left it 24 hrs.
Code still there, please help
HE – Dryer getting too hot.
1. Vent line is clogged
2. heating element grounded
3. Blower wheel temperature sensor (thermistor) covered by lint, not providing correct temperature reading
My Samsung DV42H5200EP/AC dryer stays running continuously and shows 1 minute remaining on the screen. It will shut off manually or when I open the door. What can I look for?
I have the same issue…dryer runs continuously (clothes get very hot) when set on “normal” but it will shut off when you open the door. If you get an answer, please post it here.
Sounds like a shorted heating element or stuck heater relay on the control board.
At the end of the cycle, dryer should go to Cooling cycle and temp sensor will monitor temp inside the drum. If the temp will not drop to the certain level, the control board extend Cooling cycle and seems like in your case dryer stuck in the Cooling cycle
Hi – my samsung dv220aew/xaa dryer is not turning on. I was replacing the heating element and put everything back on and not the dryer does not turn on. When I press the Start button – nothing tuns on. There is power giong to the board – could the board be faulty? HOw do I know if the board is faulty?
1. Drum belt is broken
2. Idler pulley is broken
3. Thermal fuse on the blower wheel is blown
the drum is not rotating inside the dryer is this due to a belt or bearing going bad? the model number is DV448AEP
New Samsung Flex Dry dryer failed to heat the main dryer drum. The dryer would tumble but no heat. There was heat in the upper “flex”dryer but not in the main dryer.
What is the model number?
Samsung dryer stops after working 20 minutes
Dryer turns on but won’t start. Both motor relay and heater relay turn on but nothing happens. The dryer counts down like it’s working with no drum spinning, no detectable heat (though we’ve only left it running for a few minutes), it makes no noise. Resistances for the igniter, gas valve, and thermostat all tested fine. Centrifugal switch on motor was 2.5 volts between pins 3 & 5 and 4 & 5. Idler pulley and belt are fine. Motor can spin freely by hand. Cleaned the crap out of it and still nothing. The dryer just hit 8 years old this month. Any ideas?
Did you check a thermal fuse on the blower wheel?
The dryer does turn on, but when the start button is pushed, it makes a buzzing sound and does not start. If I wait an hour, it works after pushing the start button again.
You need a new dryer motor. Start motor winding is burnt. Tell me what is the model of your dryer and I will find the right part for you
I have power and can change settings, but when I press start it won’t go.
suggestions
1. Drum belt broken
2. Idler pulley is broken
Open the dryer door and turn by hand clock-wise. Does it turns easy without resistance? If yes, then one of the two above can be the issue
Can you please help me? After spending $1000 on this Samsung dryer, only having it for one and half yr with light usage. Problem: no heat while drum spins.
Outgoing ventilation professional cleaned, no clog so not the issue. Parts (thermostat & thermal fuse) replaced by technicians. Checked continuity in all other parts. Dryer would work for 1 or 2 cycles, sometimes for a few weeks after parts replaced, before breaking down again, SAME PROBLEM. 5 times in 1yr.
Technicians are baffled, cannot give a diagnostic and quit after repeated attempts. Called Samsung, no help at all…
Does the dryer producing heat when you set it to the Air Fluff cycle?
I am having the same problem as Michael and no it’s does not heat up on the air fluff cycle
Check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I25dS6n6O8E
recently my samsung dryer has begun tripping my circuit breaker
First, try to replace dryer breaker
Dryer has heat but takes hours to dry a load of clothes…I replaced the heating element and the thermal fuse, but the dryer still takes 2 hours to dry a load of clothes.
Partially clogged vent line or dryer hoses is 100% an issue
I set it to normal and it has 1 hour to dry after 4-5 minutes it jumps from 56 minutes to 1 minute left and doesn’t dry at all on any setting.
No matter what setting my dryer is on, after about 5minutes it says it’s done. Even though it is not.
Its either moisture sensor wires needs to be checked or dryer vent line is clogged
I have squeaky drum, can you lube the drum wheels? If so what can you use?
You can, but most likely this problem will come back again. But in your case i think its not drum rollers making that noise, it is a faulty idler pulley
New Samsung dryer and the cooling light stays illuminated and clothes are not drying
Restricted vent line?
Dryer starts but after a few turns of the drum it stops
Will it start again by itself after a couple of minutes? If yes, then its a problem with a motor