Here Is Why Dryer Keeps Blowing Thermal Fuse

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Dryers have many parts that can go bad. Two such part are the thermal (limit) fuse and the thermal cutoff.

In past years, house fires were commonly caused by failed dryers.

However, thanks to these components, this is a thing of the past, as both parts work to prevent fires.

Let’s take a look at some common issues with both the thermal fuse on the blower wheel and cutoff fuse on the heater assembly.

We’ll discuss some troubleshooting and possible fixes.

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Thermal (Limit) Fuse On The Blower Wheel

This particular thermal fuse is located on your dryer’s blower wheel.

It monitors the temperature of the dryer, and when that temperature gets too high, it shuts power off to the motor (not to the heating element !!!)

Diagnosing a tripped thermal fuse is easy. You just need to have a multimeter and check continuity between two contacts.

But first, turn the dryer 240V power cord OFF from the wall and only then start to work on the dryer.

Every dryer has its own procedure on how to disassemble it and how to reach this fuse.

Failed Relay on the Control Board

Another common reason for Whirlpool and Maytag dryers, that this particular thermal fuse keeps tripping is due to a failed relay on the control board.

Usually, this relay becomes stuck in the “ON” position and sends the power to the heating element, ignoring ON/OFF commands from the control board.

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This will cause the control board to constantly send power to the heating element while dryer running.

It will not send the power if the dryer is not running !!!

When the critical temperature is reached, the thermal fuse blows. Usually, this is happening at the end, when the dryer goes to the Cool Down cycle.

When this occurs, you’ll need to replace the thermal fuse and entire control board, because the relay is stuck.

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Here’s how to check the control board:

  • Unplug the dryer
  • Remove the screws on the back of the machine that hold the control panel in place
  • Flip the control panel over to expose the control board
  • The relay switch should be on the lower right of the board
  • Check for any melting or black marks to indicate it has failed
  • If there is nothing visible, change control board anyway

The Thermal Fuse is Wrapped with Lint

Lint can bypass the trap sometimes, and end up in the wrong places inside your dryer.

Once such place it can end up is wrapped around the thermal fuse inside the blower wheel.

When this occurs, it will cause the fuse to overheat and blow due to heat build-up.

If this is the issue, you’ll need to access the blower wheel and clean all lint and other debris from around it.

Then you will need to locate and replace the thermal fuse.

To make it easier to locate, keep in mind that the blower fan is attached to the drive shaft motor.

Thermal Cutoff (heater Assembly) Fuse Keeps Tripping

The thermal cutoff is located on the heater assembly and it controls the temperature of the dryer.

It also helps monitor the amount of heat being produced by the dryer.

If you notice that the drum spins but there’s no heat produced, the thermal cutoff switch is probably blown.

You may also notice that your dryer is producing a small amount of heat, but not enough to dry your clothes in a timely manner.

You can troubleshoot the thermal cutoff by testing it for electrical continuity. However, you’ll also have to determine what made it fail in the first place.

Here are the most common reasons a thermal cutoff fuse will keep tripping.

Dryer Hose or Vent Line Clogged

When dryer hoses or vent lines become clogged it prevents proper air circulation, which will eventually cause your dryer to overheat.

This is the most common reason a thermal cutoff fuse keeps tripping.

You need to remove the vent line from the back of your dryer and clean it out.

Here’s the easiest way to clean the dryer vents:

  • Unplug the dryer
  • Locate the vent on the back of the machine
  • Remove any clamps or tape holding the vent to your dryer
  • Move the dryer out of the way to give you room to work
  • Clean the duct from the interior side of the vent. This will be behind your machine in the laundry room
  • Once that’s as clear as you can get it, you’ll need to locate the exterior vent on the outside of your home
  • This area is easy to access by removing the duct cover or flap
  • Be sure to clear the entire line, this may take a few tries depending on how many twists and turns your duct work has
  • Once you feel confident that all lint is removed, reconnect everything

Sometimes you can discover bird nest on the very end of the vent line.

Heating Element Grounded

When the coils in the heating element expanding, they can touch metal casing and it can cause the heating element to become grounded.

When this occurs it will cause your dryer’s heating element to remain “ON” constantly, even during the fluff or AIR ONLY cycle.

Cycling thermostat just not able to control amount of heat produced by the heating element.

Eventually, this will cause your dryer to overheat which will trip the thermal cutoff fuse.

To repair this problem you will need to follow these steps:

  • Unplug the machine
  • Remove the back panel from the dryer
  • The heating element will be located near the bottom of the machine, you’ll need to disconnect the wires going to it
  • Mark the location of each wire, so you can remember where they go later
  • Remove the high-heat thermostat from the old heating element and transfer it to the new one
  • Position the new heating element to the heater box properly and screw into place
  • Replace the wires and back panel
  • Plug the dryer in and test to see if it’s working properly

In the end, anytime the thermal fuse or cutoff trips, it will need to be replaced.

As a one-time use part, it’s not designed to be reset.

Also, remember to track down the actual problem when this fuse blows.

The simple fact is, it doesn’t happen for no reason at all.

Have you had issues with a thermal fuse tripping?

What brand machine do you have and what was causing the problem? Comment now and let us know.

Reader Comments (135)

  1. Hello I have a Maytag Bravos xl, Model number MEDB755DW2. It’s a It is around six years old. Have not had an issue with it till now. When I go to turn it on there’s power to the buttons and when I turn it on it just clicks but doesn’t run. We have checked the vent/exhaust inside and outside. It’s clear. Additionally the light inside of the dryer is on when I open it. ( so I don’t believe it’s the door switch). I’m interested in changing the fuse on my own but wanted to see if you had any advice or tips specific to my make/model! Thank you!

    • 1. Open top cover to check drum belt. If something wrong with the belt or idler pulley, you will be able to lift belt up. If belt doesn’t move, belt is ok.
      2. Check continuity of the thermal fuse (white color) on the blower wheel (see pictures in the post) , if its blown, replace it. Thats why dryer wont start, but just clicks.

      • I have Maytag Bravo gas dryer MGD850YW1 keeps blowing thermal cut off. I replaced both thermal cutoff and high limit fuse. The Vent is clean. I washed the vent screen because we use dryer sheets. Then replaced thermistor and thermal cut off with aftermarket brand out of desperation, the originals still tested good same result. Ran dryer with exhaust tube disconnected with max temperature of 154 degrees out exhaust end then cycles down to 120. I had parts store test igniter and the adjacent part and they were good. At a loss for for why thermal cutoff is blowing?

  2. Hey Eugene,
    Have a Maytag Continental electric, no heat, found thermal fuse blown as measured with meter, heater coil has 10 ohms (coils looked ok, no grounding as wires were all spaced away from walls; noting loose either), other 3 sensors were measuring some resistance across terminals, say 0.3 – 0.4 ohms, so replaced fuse and since kit had all sensors replaced them too as was recommended on whatever website. Started dryer had heat briefly then no heat. Darn, wished i’d bought extra fuses!! Ordered 2 and someone said coil resistance should be more like 40 ohms, so bought new thinking NG there too. Parts arrive and found thermal fuse was OK?? Followed air fluff note above, still no heat; accidently moved past low heat setting and heat came on!! Huh, so the low temp cycle worked. Could the timer selector switch be bad causing the high temp cycles to not run properly? And then blowing the thermal fuse?

  3. Wow… I have learned so much from reading all of this and the comments. I watched a youtube video and mistakenly only replaced the Fuse… and not the thermostat… and its tripped again. I also vacuumed in and around the heating element but I did not check the vent line to the outside. Here are my next steps… I tried to summarize the steps in the order that makes the most sense… based on the article and all of the comments here. GREAT JOB EUGENE!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

    Steps:
    • Clean air exhaust completely (someone saw proper air flow… but ended up having to run a brush as the lint accumulation was enough to restrict air flow but not block it. )
    ○ If vent is clear inside and out… take drier apart and clean inside drier’s exhaust vent
    • Replace fuse AND THERMOSTAT
    • Check heating element to make sure its not grounded to housing (try continuity test between leads and housing)
    • Check heater element resistance for 10 ohms (less than 10 ohms it might be getting too hot, get OEM replacement as off brand may be out of spec)
    • Run drier on fluff with no heat… and check that the heating element is not on (if it is, its likely relay on control board is stuck in the on position, and relay needs replaced or entire control board needs replaced)
    • Run drier on high heat and measure temperature at exhaust to be 150 degrees or less, if its >150… thermostat or heater element is running too hot.
    • Run unit on medium to get all clothes/towels dried and have things to wear/use… then flip to high heat and monitor it.

  4. I have a LG Tromm DLE5955W that continues to blow the thermal cut-off fuse. Airflow is good, no obstructions. Thermostat replaced and the thermal cut-off still continues to trip. It will run for one or two cycles after replacement before it fails. Prior to this problem occurring, I replaced 4 rollers, belt and tensioner pulley – but I don’t see how this would contribute to the problem. Any ideas?

    • Does it produce heat on Air Only cycle? How do you know that vent line is not restricted? Did you check vent outside, to make sure air coming out from the vent is strong enough?

      • No heat on air only cycle. Air flow is strong through vent. I clean the wall vent, connecting tube and dryer regularly.

      • I am running out of ideas… but try to run several cycles without a hose connected. Will it blow again? Also, If you have infrared thermometer, measure temperature of air coming out from the dryer. It shouldn’t be high then 180F. If it will be high then something wrong with the cycling thermostat.

  5. I have a kenmore elite HE4 (Model 110.95091401) gas dryer. It stopped producing heat. I proceeded to replace the thermal fuse which did fix the problem. The igniter produced a flame and I thought I was good to go. However after running for a minute or two it blew the fuse again. I replaced the fuse again and had an exact repeat. So I know the fuse is my problem but can’t figure out why it keeps blowing. I checked the vent line and it’s clear and I cleaned all the lint out around the lint trap etc. How can I identify the problem?

      • Just finished replacing the high limit thermostat and the fuse again for the third time. No change. It ignited twice and then blew the fuse. Any thoughts on another possibility?

      • I need to get a thermometer to measure exhaust temp. I just finished replacing the thermistor and the fuse again. Same result. So I’ve replaced the high limit thermostat, the thermistor, replaced the foam seal around the lint chute assembly. I double checked the exhaust to make sure it’s clear. Here’s exactly what’s happening:
        After I replaced the fuse, I started the dryer on low heat. I get a glow inside the burner duct, then the igniter, then flame. Runs for about a minute or so, shuts off. After about a minute, glow inside burner duct, ignition, runs for about 3 seconds, shuts off. After about 20 or 30 seconds, glow in the burner duct no ignition. Repeats. Thermal fuse blown.

      • The last 2 remains – ignitor and flame sensor. Replace them both. But i assume the problem with ignitor. Even if it looks like its working and glowing

  6. I tested the heating element for continuity and received the audible beep. This is what I was doing the whole time. Did it again this time and still received the beep but noticed a 011 reading on multimeter. Changed the multimeter to ohms and received 0.00. Guess the element can have continuity but if ohms are off it’s bad. What shoul the ohms reading be on the heating element?

    • Around 10 Ohms (+-1 Ohm)… Make sure you measure it right, cause audible beep checks continuity, but you need to measure resistance.

  7. Purchased the heating element on Amazon. The heating element gets hot and the dryer has done 4 loads, 3 loads, etc before the thermal fuse (thermostat cut off) goes out on the heater box housing.
    I did not check ohms on the heating element coil since it gets hot. The thermal fuse (thermostat cut off fuse) blows out every timer however, this app started with the failed heating element coil . Ton the 3rd thermal fuse replacement I tried lowest heat setting – it blew after 1,5 loads of laundry. Before that I tried the air fluff (no heat) to see if the heating element coil would heat up (it didn’t). My understanding is if the element heated on air fluff (no heat) then the main control board should be replaced as the heat relay is open. I’ve had the dryer hose disconnected from the dryer vent pipe to my house so I know it’s not a vent issue. I’ve cleaned the blower pipe and housing. I’ll test the ohms on the element but really don’t think this is the issue based upon the element heats up each time a heat cycle is used. What heating element specs are required to ensure element is correct part and does not blow the thermal fuse on my model DV330AEW/XAA? Any other suggestion while I tear into the dryer again? I’ve heard the centifugal switch on the motor could cause a blow thermal fuse. Your thoughts on this? Main control board and how to test other than air fluff mode? Thanks.

    • The point of checking the resistance of the heating element is to make sure the heating element providing proper amount of heat. Less resistance, more heat will be produced. Regarding centrifugal switch, i have never had any issues in my experience, so i doubt that its an issue. If there is no heat on Air-Fluff, control board heater relay is ok.
      As long as you have an issues with the heating element from Amazon, i recommend you to get OEM assembly (heater, fuse, thermostat)

  8. I have a Samsung dryer, model DV330AEW/XAA. Heating element was bad so I replaced it. THERE ARE ABSOLUTLY NO CLOGS ANTWHERE! Did 3 to 4 loads and thermal fuse on heater housing blew out. Replaced it and the high limit thermostat. Thermal fuse blew 2 more times. The thermistor and thermal fuse on blower housing are fine (thermistor tested at 11.26 ohms and thermal fuse has continuity on the blower housing). The heating element is not grounded and has continuity when testing the 2 terminal plugs, no continuity when testing each of individual terminals to heater box housing. All thermostats/fuses on the heater box and blower housing replaced and all were good and ran the dryer on air fluff (no heat) with the exhaust hose blowing into the laundry room (no dryer lint clogs anywhere) and it blew cool air so the heat relay on control board must be good. I’m at a loss and need some other options to resolve.

    • Hi Brant, just wondering where did you get a heating element from? Do you measure resistance of the heating element? It should be around 10 Ohms. If it less, its not good. Did you have issues with the thermal fuse before you changed heating element?

  9. Working with a Whirlpool duet electric dryer. I noticed the dryer/clothes were extremely hot at the end of one cycle and the next time I used it, it wouldn’t turn on (power and a click to start but no spinning or heat). After some Googling I replaced the thermal fuse and it comes on again, but still runs heat on air-only. Putting the machine into diagnostic mode, it gives me the F01 code. There were no burn/black marks in the control board, but for fun I tried a YouTube hack for replacing the relay on the control board. The machine still runs heat on air-only. Could there be another simple issue or should I replace the entire control board anyway since diagnostics said F01 (note that the dryer never flashed that error code on its own)? Also, venting and air flow is not an issue in this scenario, all vents/tubes were clear.

    • Hi Dana, one of the relays is stuck in ON position, thats why its keep heating up on Air-Only Cycle. You need to find and replace that relay, or get a new board.

  10. gas dryer model: wgd4815ew2. 2 yr old dryer all clean vent line clean. not the best config exhaust to outside. the lint filter collects little to no lint when operating 3 cycles for tee shirts with no heat. (Visual) The thermal fuse on the wheel exhaust side has the two connector prongs toasted burn up or tar looking to the wire connectors (2 wires (blue). Question: before replacing this, what causes this Thermal fuse to burn?

      • Hi Eugene,
        I’ve got a Maytag Dryer – model med3500fw0. My issue could be similar. It first begin with the lint filter warning light – red light. I checked the exhaust and lint filter, and cleaned it with my shopvac using a narrow hose and nozzle to get the deeper places. I partially opened the lint filter housing, so that I could clean the wire connectors associated with the lint sensor. There was no significant build-up, as we typically clean the filter with every use. The red lint light still comes-on, and still no luck starting the dryer. Now, I’m noticing a clicking sound coming from the top of the dryer; when I press the power button. No codes are being produced, but the lights around the cycle dial are yellow; I seem to recall that they were green. Not sure if that matters, but I’d appreciate your thoughts and recommendations.
        Thanks,
        Q

      • Did you take top cover off? For me it sounds like drum belt issue. When you will open top cover, lift belt up. If will be able to do so, that means belt slipped off from the idler pulley. You will need to take apart dryer and fix or replace drum belt.

  11. I have a Kenmore 70 Series Heavy Duty Plus Gas Dryer. Model # 11087576110. It had blown the thermal fuse. I replaced it, and it still didn`t work. I then checked the continuity with a meter of the flame sensor, dryer coils, thermostat, ignitor, and I even took out the motor and bench tested it. After the bench testing, and a cleaning of the contacts, I reassembled, and it worked, for about 10 days until the thermal fuse blew again. The airways are all clear and clean. Any suggestions on why it`s heating up so much to blow the thermal fuse. This dryer is 20 + yrs old, and I`ve never had any other problems other than replacing the belt. Any suggestions?? Thanks!

  12. I have a Maytag epic z electric dryer…….the sensors on the heating element keep blowing one then the other. Vent is clean as a whistle all the way to outside. Replaced both high limit and thermal whatever on heating element and element and it ran for like 4 cycles…..also wondering if the garage is at a really low temp if that has an effect.

    • Hi Robert, did you check heating element to make sure its not grounded? Then it will always stays ON, causing overheating. Another thing, i’ve seen several times, when control board relay was stuck in ON position. It also may cause overheating. Concerning low temp in the garage, i am not sure if it may affect the way how dryer should work.

      • If the control board relay is stuck in ON position, will it blow the fuse immediately and every time? Or could the dryer work for several cycles and then blow the fuse?

  13. My samsung dryer’s thermal fuse has blown 5 or 6 times. After replacing the temp sensors, troubleshooting the control board, never found the “issue”. Heavy researching, I learned 2 things. First, run it on medium heat, that will keep you from blowing them. This is working, but not giving me warm fuzzy feelings about the longevity of this workaround. Second, I heard was that there are air leaks in the blower system, such that cool air is being sucked into the blower or the blower ducts. This cool air gives the control system a false reading, and it applies more heat. This in turn blows the thermal fuse.
    The solution was to look for air leaks on the blower or the ducts. As these units get older, the foam seals crap out. So get yourself some high temp tape (aluminum foil hvac duct tape and seal up the duct seams. Or you can replace the ducts and blowers, to get the new seals.

  14. Samsung DV45H7400EP/AC model. mu dryer runs but does not heat. there is continuité with heating elemet and thermostat DC47-00018A.
    the problem is with thermostat Dc47-00015A.
    I’ve researched the part and i get part number dc96-00887C (includes bracket and thermostat). Can dc96-00887A be used instead of dc96-00887C because 0887C is hard to find.

      • Great guide! Yours is the only one that makes the distinction between the thermal fuse on the blower housing and the one on the heating element box! Im so tired of wrong parts, incomplete troubleshooting, etc.! I think your guide has me pointed in the right direction now, but Im gonna need another part, at least, I think.
        I have a Kenmore HE3 with front panel access on the bottom. Inside, the blower housing is to the left, the heating element box to the right. Everything I had read, and the Sears PartsDirect guy, indicated I needed to replace the thermal fuse on the blower. Wasted a lot of time and effort there for nothing, got wrong part, etc. Had to reorder. Then I happened to notice a melted wire coming out of the plain white rectangular fuse on the outside of the element box, right at the front. I have deduced this is the element fuse? I have a repair kit with two pieces in it that match the other two fuses on the outside of this box. Everything I read in your guide convinces me the thermal cutoff and thermostat are blown, and these would be replacements for those, right? The melted wire wasn’t the one between those two parts. The melted wire went from the rectangular fuse in front to the rhombus shaped one in the middle. The bracket-shaped piece in the back shows no damage, and I have no multimeter, so I am trying to reason all this out based on info at hand, both good and bad. So Im going to replace the middle and back fuses with the matching parts in the kit they sent me, even though they show no damage. I assume I’ll need to get a replacement for the white one in front, though actually, only the wire showed any damage. Im just assuming this piece is hurt inside where I cant see. The element itself is visible through a big gap in the box. From what I can see, it looks unharmed, not that proves anything. Because the dryer has been running fluff only for weeks, there’s lint on it that will have to be cleaned off, but based on your guide, I guess the element itself might be okay, but if it is, then I have to figure out why this thermal cutoff blew, and why that wire melted. Of the two pieces they sent me, Im guessing the thermostat is the one in the middle that was attached to the other end of the burnt wire attached to the white rectangular fuse. All the wire damage was at the end connected to the white box, and thats right on the edge of the gap where you can see the element.
        Do you see any holes in my logic or my plan to proceed with replacing the two parts I have, as well as getting a replacement for the white box and this burnt wire? I am hoping like heck that this will resolve the issue, because this dryer is very inaccessible and its a bear to work on, especially climbing over it to plug it back in every time. Im too old for these gymnastics!

      • There was a looong read)) Recommendation #1: Get for yourself any digital multimeter on Amazon (25$) and you will save money in the future and make your troubleshooting much easier. Don’t play guess game ))

      • I did as you said and bought a multimeter. I also bought a complete element repair kit because it supposedly has all the parts I need.
        First problem is that the parts don’t match what Im pulling out. I know aftermarket parts can look different, but both the fuse and the thermodisc on the blower housing are super flat and sit flush on the housing. They sent me a fuse on a bracket that makes it stand up off the housing. And instead of the very flat thermodisc type, the accompanying thermostat looks like a kind of fuse. It does fit into the hole on the housing, though. Can I use it?
        The ones on the outside of the heater can dont match either. Whats in there now looks like the pieces they sent for the blower housing, one thing on a bracket, and a high limit thermostat marked as such. It also included a wire to replace the one to the element that was melted, so I guess Im not the first. Are these acceptable replacements?

  15. hi, i have a maytag dryer that keeps blowing thermal fuse.
    sensors ohms ok .checked the cut out on the wifes grittle and it opens
    250/300 ,but replaced it away to no avail.
    took heater coil out and could not find any signs of damage and it ohms
    good.
    what controls the amount of heat? control board
    has to be getting to hot to blow that fuse on blower side.

    • Try to run a dryer on AIR FLUFF cycle (without heat, just air). If it will heating up, then it’s the problem with one of the relays on the control board. It stuck in ON position. When the dryer finished the drying cycle, it should, in the last couple of minutes turn heater OFF and start to cool down. But as long as the relay stuck and the heater is always ON (besides when it cycling using the cycling thermostat) then, when the dryer will stop, air circulation will stop as well and it will hot inside enough to trip the thermal fuse.

  16. My thermal fuse keeps blowing. It was replaced initially on a Friday and by Monday, it blew again. I replaced it once more along with the thermister. It ran for one load and then blew once again… any ideas? I’m thinking the control board went. When it does run, air goes out the exhaust with no problems.
    Thanks

    • What is the brand of your dryer? What thermal fuse you are talking about, on the blower wheel or on the heater assembly?

    • Kitchenaid superba. Dryer wasn’t getting clothes dry in one cycle. Some guy told me to change heating element and thermostat. I did and fixed it. That was 5 months ago and now the dryer isnt heating at all. But running. What could that be?

      • Probably the same problem, i guess.. Or thermal fuse burnt out. You have to have multimeter to check continuity of the heater and fuse

  17. I replaced my Samsung Dryer Thermo Switch multiple times until I finally went up on my roof and ran a brush down the vent 22 feet until I could feel a draft, see my flashlight on the other end and clearly speak to the wife through the vent. My 10 Year old Samsung Drier has never worked better, dries faster than ever its the exact model shown up top of this article with all the burnt looking components. If you are going through thermo switches like water then run a brush make 100 percent sure its clear. Think about it the lent chokes off the air supply to exhaust the heat causing the Dryer to not think properly and overheat tripping the thermo switch. All these months my Samsung has been talking to me and I would just replace the thermo switch and ignore the vent. I will be cleaning that vent once a year now lol.

  18. Hello I have a LG DLEX 3070 dryer and I’ve changed the thermal fuse a few times now. Its works for 3 months then the fuse goes out. My ducts/vents are cleaned regularly. What could it be? I’m thinking of changing out the heating element next.

    • Are you talking about the thermal fuse on the blower or on the heater assembly? Did you replace cycling thermostat on the heater assembly as well? You need to change them both, fuse and cycling thermostat. Another thing to check is, what the temperature of the air coming from the dryer without a vent hose attached? Its should be no more than 180F, usually less

  19. Thermal fuse keeps blowing sometimes even after one cycle. I put a new lint trap in also a new heating element. Also it seems to be venting out of the house just fine. Idk what to do.

      • Hi Eugene!

        I have a Whirlpool dryer and I have this issue. I’ve changed the thermal fuse on the blower 4x now. After 2 or 3 cycles, it blows. However, the timer is not moving when I turn it on which I’m sure is causing the fuse to blow. I can turn it on and off with the timer but I wanted to know for sure whether to replace just the timer or do I need to replace the circuit board? At the moment, every other know works.

        Thanks!

      • Hi Eugene,

        My apology – it’s a WED5000DW2. I just changed the timer and i was able to do two 70 min cycles last night and a 50 min cycle this morning. But when my wife tried to do another load, the thermal fuse blew again. I just checked my heating element and a spring broke. 🙂 Both the thermal cut off switch and high limit thermostat have continuity. So I’m guessing once I replace the heating element, I’m back in business.

  20. The thermal cut off fuse keeps blowing.It will last for a couple months & blows again. I have replaced it twice. The dryer vent was checked & was clean. Any suggestions on cause??

    • You have to replace cycling thermostat along with thermal fuse. And also double check vent line from the dryer to outside. Especially outside, i’ve seen bird nests many times blocking airflow

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