Washing Machine Tripping The Breaker? 7 Fixes from a Master Electrician

James is a Master Electrician with 30-years of experience. We do not use AI for the information we provide on this site.

The top 7 reasons a washing machine may trip a breaker are:
1. GFCI breaker issues
2. AFCI breaker issues
3. Bad door latch assembly
4. Defective timer
5. Faulty water level control switch
6. Shorted motor or bad motor control unit
7. Faulty control board
Read on for a detailed explanation of each issue.

Top 7 Reasons Why a Washing Machine Keeps Tripping the Breaker

1. GFCI breaker Issues

Most modern homes are wired so that the washing machine is protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). There are two ways this can be accomplished: with a GFCI outlet, or with an GFCI breaker.

However, you do NOT want both types on the same circuit. This will often cause nuisance tripping.

The internal sensors will read each other’s operation as an anomaly and therefore trip. Even though there is no danger, one GFCI assumes there could be, and plays it safe.

If you have a GFCI breaker on your washer circuit, here are the steps to troubleshoot the tripping issue:

1. Unplug your washer and plug in a hair dryer or other significant appliance with a motor (e.g. blender, mixer, power tool, etc.). If the breaker still trips, your washer is likely fine.
   Read this article: Why Does My Breaker Keep Tripping?
2. To double-check, you can usually swap the breaker for another similar one in your panel. This is an easy way to test a breaker without having to buy one.
3. If the breaker is fine, the issue is probably with the washer itself. Move on to section 3 of this article.

2. AFCI Breaker Issues

In 2014, the National Electric Code began requiring Arc-fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protection for laundry outlets. AFCIs are quite different from GFCIs.

As the name implies, AFCIs detect arcing in the circuit. However, they are oftentimes oversensitive and will nuisance trip. This is especially true of any AFCI manufactured before 2020.

The requirement came out way before technology was ready for it. That left us electricians being forced to install equipment that we knew was not going to work correctly. It was a bad time.

If your washer circuit is protected by an AFCI, there is a good chance it is nuisance tripping. Here are the steps to troubleshoot:

1. As with the GFCI test above, check the outlet with another motor-driven appliance.
2. Swap the breaker for a similar one in the panel to test it.
3. If the other breaker trips as well, then it point to a problem in the washer itself. Proceed to section 3 of this article.

Note: Some breakers are a GFCI/AFCI combination, called dual-function breakers. So sections 1 and 2 above both apply to these.

3. Door Latch Assembly

What it is:

On most modern machines, when you close the door and start the fill cycle, the door latch will automatically lock. And it will stay locked until the cycle is complete.

This is especially true for front-load machines, where opening the door mid-cycle could be a disaster!

Why it fails:

The washer’s door latch assembly is simple in design, but it has moving parts that can cause your washer problems if they wear out or become faulty.

Among other results, a faulty door latch can fail in such a way that trips your circuit breaker.

Because of the moving parts being in close proximity to the electrical connections, those connections can vibrate loose. Those loose wires may come into contact with other terminals or the metal frame of the washer, causing a short circuit.

Though rare, a door latch mechanism can also have an internal short circuit. Any short will cause the breaker to trip.

How to fix:

To fix this problem, the door latch assembly must be replaced.

That is a relatively simple process that begins with disconnecting the power supply to the washing machine.

If you have a service manual handy, that can help you find and replace the latch assembly. It’s typically accessible from the front of the machine, without having to remove any panels.

However, you’ll probably have to move part of the rubber gasket that hides the assembly.

The assembly is usually held in place with two screws. Remove them, and you’ll be able to disconnect and remove the old door latch assembly.

Reverse the steps to install the new assembly.

Remember: Don’t tighten those screws too much. They’re going into plastic, so you don’t want to overtighten the screws and break anything.

4. Timer

What it is:

While many manufacturers have switched to using control boards with digital displays, some still use timers on their washing machines.

To be sure, you can check the user manual to see if your washing machine uses a timer.

Timers act as the brain of your entire washing machine by controlling each cycle that happens whenever you do a load of laundry.

The timer is mechanical, so there are springs and small moving parts inside.

Those also include moving electrical contacts that power different systems in your washing machine to do their job right when they need to.

Why it fails:

As mentioned before, timers have lots of moving parts and electrical connections in them. Since we’re talking about tripping circuit breakers, our concern will be on the electrical connections instead.

Sometimes, those connections might overheat and become welded together. This can be caused by a loose connection that heats up due to arcing.

Once termination points get stuck together, it can create a chain reaction of failures that easily can result in a short circuit.

How to fix:

Timers are fairly easy to purchase and replace. As usual, you’ll want to disconnect the power to your washing machine and refer to the user manual for any special instructions to the unit you have.

The process starts with taking apart the washing machine’s console. Behind it, you’ll see that the timer is mounted to the console with screws and has plenty of connections going into it.

On the front of the console, you may see knobs attached to it as well.

Remove the knobs, connections, and screws before gently removing the timer unit.

Install the new unit in the reverse manner. When you replace the connections, you’ll want to make sure they firmly lock back into place.

5. Water Level Control Switch Failed

What is it:

Washing machines also have what’s known as a water level control switch.

This component monitors the water level inside the washer’s drum with the help of an air tube connected to it.

As water fills up the drum, the air inside that tube will compress and let the switch know that there’s enough water to begin the next cycle.

If there isn’t enough water in the drum, the switch will then signal the water inlet valve to let more water in, stopping when it’s full.

The switch’s exact location depends on the brand and model of the washing machine you have.

Typically, it’s located behind the central console of the washer. The water level switch is usually straightforward to identify, thanks to the air tube connected directly to it.

Why it fails:

The water level switch coordinates several different functions, and it does so by sending power to specific components at the correct time in the wash cycle.

If faulty, it could send power to too many places simultaneously, causing either an overload or a short circuit….and therefore trip the breaker.

How to fix:

Water level control switches are generally not difficult to identify and replace. As always, start by disconnecting the power to the washing machine and referring to your user manual. 

First, locate the water level control switch. Usually, they’re behind the main control panel, and they’ve got an air hose attached to them.

I like to take a few photos of any part before removing it. That way, I can refer back to it if I forget how something was originally installed.

Start by removing the air hose. That’ll make it easier to remove the connections, and then the switch itself.

Make sure the new switch has all the same dimensions and specs as the old one before installing.

6. Shorted Motor or Bad Motor Control Unit

What it is:

The motor is the workhorse of your washing machine.

The motor is responsible for spinning the washing machine’s drum through all of its cycles, whether it’s to agitate all the dirt out of your clothes or to spin them dry.

Working closely with the motor is the motor control unit (MCU) or motor control board.

That is the component with all the circuits that coordinate the motor’s actions, such as its speed and direction. It sends power to the motor at the correct amounts and at precisely the right times.

Together, they work as the heart of the washing machine where most of the work gets done.

Why it fails:

There are several ways a motor or its control unit can start to fail.

After many years of service, the motor may lose its efficiency and draw too much power just to do its job.

That excessive draw of power could cause the circuit breaker to trip as a protective measure.

On the other hand, the motor control board might have a faulty component on it, like a resistor, for example.

A power surge or exposure to heat could cause one of those resistors to burn and malfunction, leading to a tripping circuit breaker.

How to fix:

To fix this, you’ll need to replace either the motor or the motor control unit, whichever one is at fault. For both, you’ll want to disconnect all the water and electrical connections to the washing machine before you begin.

You’ll need to remove the panels on the washer to gain access to either of these parts.

The motor control unit is relatively easy to replace. After all, the unit is small and light, so you’ll just have to take it out and replace it with a new one.

Replacing the motor isn’t so easy. That’ll involve removing the belt, any mounting bolts, and of course the wiring. The motor itself is also relatively heavy compared to any of the other components.

If you choose to replace the motor yourself, it’s best to refer to the user manual as different models are built differently from each other.

You’ll also want to take pictures of all the bolts and wiring to ensure that you replace them in the same ways when you put the new motor in.

7. Faulty Control Board

What it is:

The control board is the brain of you machine. It controls most of the various functions, including the timer, cycle selector, wash type, etc.

Why it fails:

Though not as common, sometimes a control board will go on the fritz and cause a breaker to trip. It sends signals that there is an imbalance in the circuit and the breaker thinks it’s true – so it does it’s job and trips.

How to fix:

The only fix for this (unless you are very skilled in diagnosing and repairing electronics) is to replace the control board.

They are usually quite spendy, so I would recommend this only as a last resort – after you’ve ruled out the other potential culprits we’ve discussed above.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my washing machine keep tripping the breaker but not other appliances?

Washing machines have motor startup surge that many other appliances lack. If your circuit is barely large enough to run your machine, the inrush current could be putting it over the edge.

Your washer may be protected by a GFCI breaker. If there is a water leak in or around the machine, the GFCI could be sensing it and tripping.

Why does my washing machine only trip the breaker on the spin cycle?

This usually points to either a motor issue or drum drag.

Your motor capacitor or brushes could be bad, causing a short circuit.

Or your drum could have an obstruction, causing it to not spin freely. This will overwork the motor and can cause a breaker to trip.

Why does my washing machine trip the breaker when it fills with water?

Water level switch could be faulty.

The heating element may be shorting out (common on front-loaders with heated wash).

Can a washing machine trip a breaker if it’s on a shared circuit?

Absolutely. In fact, this is the most common cause of overload on a circuit.

If you have another appliance (e.g. fridge, dryer, or even lights) on the circuit, the inrush draw of the motor loads can overwhelm the breaker and cause a trip.

What size breaker does a washing machine need?

A 20-amp circuit is required by the National Electrical Code – NEC 210.11(C)(2).

Even though the average washer has a nameplate rating of 10-12 amps, the circuit must be able to handle the larger ones as well.

Is it safe to keep resetting the breaker when my washing machine trips it?

A breaker can safely handle many resets. However, they will eventually wear out and fail, which does present a danger.

Therefore, you certainly want to figure out the cause of the tripping and fix it. You don’t want to risk the breaker failing in the closed position!

How do I know if my washing machine is causing the breaker to trip or if it’s the breaker itself?

As mentioned in the article above, the easy and cheap way to test the breaker is by swapping it for a similar one (e.g. dishwasher or disposal) in your panel.

If the same breaker trips on a different circuit –> bad breaker.

If the swapped breaker trips on the washer circuit –> appliance or circuit issue.

Can a washing machine trip an AFCI breaker even if nothing is wrong with it?

You betcha. This has been a frustration for electricians ever since the AFCIs were first required.

AFCIs can be oversensitive and nuisance trip, even though everything is fine with the appliance and circuit. They’re getting better, but still not perfected.

Sadly, in some cases there’s nothing to be done except replace the appliance or try different breakers, hoping you’ll find one with high enough tolerances.

Final Thoughts

You can perform all of these repairs yourself, but if you’re unsure, it’s always a good idea to call in an expert to do it for you.

Read: Why Does My Circuit Breaker Keep Tripping?