Samsung Dryer Not Heating? Why It Happens & How To Fix It

In this article, we’re going to take a deep dive into some of the most likely reasons why your dryer isn’t heating up. Then, we’ll explore a few frequently asked questions on this topic.

Summary: if your Samsung dryer fails to generate heat, it is predominantly attributed to a burnt heating element, accounting for 80% of the cases — while the remaining 18% are caused by a blown thermal cut-off fuse, cycling thermostat, or a failed control board heater relay. The remaining 2% may stem from an inadequate power supply, whereby the dryer receives only 110 Volts, instead of the required 240 Volts.

Detailed analysis of potential causes

Burnt Heating Element

What it is: For your Samsung dryer to effectively dry your clothes, it must first generate heat. That’s where the heating element comes into play.

The precise design of the heating element can differ based on the model that you have. Still, they all generally work the same way.

When the machine needs heat, it sends power to the heating element. The heating element generates heat, which is then pushed into the dryer by a blower fan.

That hot, moving air removes moisture and dries out anything that you placed in your dryer.

Why it fails: Whenever a dryer isn’t heating up, there’s an 80% chance that it’s caused by a heating element that has burned out.

You can confirm whether or not that’s the case by inspecting the heating element on your Samsung dryer, either with a multimeter or visually.

When you use a multimeter to check the heating element’s resistance, the reading should be approximately 10 Ohms. If that’s the case, then that means your heating element is in good working order.

Also, you can grab a flashlight and inspect the entire heating element up-close.

Burnt out elements will give off a burnt smell or have burn marks somewhere along the length of the element.

How to fix: To fix this problem, you’ll need to replace the heating element. For the most part, it’s a pretty straightforward task.

However, reaching the heating element housing is what makes this a time-consuming and labor-intensive repair job.

Always begin any repairs by shutting off the power supply to the dryer to prevent injury and even potential electrocution. 

Then, keep your user manual and technical sheet close by as a quick reference. That will help you locate and identify the heating element on your model, which will be in its housing somewhere along the air vents.

To get there, you may need to remove several parts that include the drum and any other components in the way.

Once you’ve reached the housing, however, you’ll need to remove the existing heating element and disconnect the electrical connectors attached to it.

Reverse the procedure with the new element, and work your way backwards by replacing any components and panels you took apart earlier.

Burnt Thermal Cut-Off Fuse

What it is: When it comes to home appliances that generate heat (e.g. your stove, or in this case, your Samsung dryer), there’s an extra component that adds protection from overheating.

That part is called the thermal cut-off fuse. They’re known as a ‘sacrificial’ device because they burn or blow out to protect the rest of the appliance.

In this case, your Samsung dryer has a thermal cut-off fuse at the heater assembly that protects against overheating.

If temperatures rise too high, the thermal cut-off fuse will burn out and prevent the dryer from heating up.

Why it fails: When a Samsung dryer isn’t heating up, there’s a 10% chance that it’s because of a burnt thermal cut-off fuse in the heater assembly.

As mentioned before, this happens whenever the temperature around the heater assembly rises beyond safe levels, as the fuse burns out to protect the rest of the machine from damage.

That kind of overheating typically happens because the dryer’s vents are clogged.

Without proper airflow to carry heat away from the heating elements, the heater assembly overheats and leads to the thermal cut-off fuse burning.

How to fix: There are two parts to fixing this problem. First, you’ll need to replace the burnt-out thermal cut-off fuse.

These are ‘disposable’ parts in the sense that they can’t be repaired. They can only be replaced.

As usual, shut off the power supply (unplug) before performing any repairs. Plus, keep your user manual and technical sheet nearby as a quick reference.

That will guide you as you remove the necessary panels (typically the back panel) to access the heater assembly.

Here, you must be cautious of one other thing: if the heater assembly is still hot, do not work on it until it has cooled down completely.

Then, disconnect the burnt fuse and replace it with the new one.

Replacing the fuse only solves the symptom and not the root cause. Be sure to clean out all of the dryer’s vents to ensure proper airflow and prevent overheating.

Cycling Thermostat Failed

What it is: Your Samsung dryer might not be generating heat continuously until the end of the drying cycle.

Instead, it only generates heat until it reaches its set temperature before shutting off the heater.

When the temperature is too low, then it should repeat the heating process as many times as necessary to maintain the right level of heat throughout the cycle.

To ensure that the heater turns on and off only when appropriate, your dryer relies on a cycling thermostat.

It senses when the temperatures get too low or too high, and reacts accordingly.

Why it fails: The cycling thermostat is continuously in use and might fail over time.

When that happens, it might not sense that the temperature inside the dryer is too low, and therefore fails to turn on the heater.

If you’ve been using your Samsung dryer for a long time now, then it’s possible that the thermostat has suffered from too much wear and tear and cannot function correctly.

You can diagnose the cycling thermostat with your multimeter by checking its resistance.

A functioning thermostat should produce a reading of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. However, it’ll show an infinite reading if it’s faulty and needs to be replaced.

How to fix: Typically, you can find the cycling thermostat behind the rear panel of the dryer.

That’ll depend on the exact model you have and its design, so refer to the user manual and tech sheet to be sure.

As always, disconnect the power supply (unplug) before beginning any sort of work.

To replace it, you’ll simply need to remove its electrical connector and the screws keeping it in place.

Then, put the new thermostat in and work backwards: screw it in place, replace the connector, then put the rear panel back.

Control Board Heater Relay Failed

What it is: As you might know, the ‘brain’ of almost any household appliance is the main control board.

Even the one in your Samsung dryer coordinates and controls most all of the appliance’s functions, including its ability to generate heat.

On that control board are a lot of electrical components controlling different parts of the dryer.

In this case, we’re looking at the relay on that control board which is dedicated to supplying power to the heater when necessary.

Why it fails: While the rest of the control board might be functioning normally, the heater relay on the control board may be the part that’s failed.

Despite everything else functioning correctly, that failed heater relay means that the control board isn’t sending any power to the heater.

How to fix: Technically, it is possible to fix just the damaged heater relay alone.

Depending on where you live, you might be able to find a service that can do it for you.

However, the more straightforward solution would be to replace the main control board altogether.

You’ll usually find the main control board located behind the control panel on your dryer.

You may have to remove the top panel to gain access to it, though that might differ depending on the model you have. As always, refer to the user manual and technical sheet to be sure.

Once you’ve reached the board, remove its electrical connectors and mounting screws. Place the new board in, and replace those screws and connectors the same way as before.

Improper power Supply

What it is: A dryer is a power-hungry appliance, especially when it comes to the heating element.

To generate heat, the heating element inside the dryer requires a continuous single-phase (US) 240V power supply.

Why it fails: Seeing as how the dryer relies on a 240V power supply, it should be connected to a two-pole circuit breaker (the rough equivalent of two single-pole breakers with a handle tie).

If only one half of the breaker trips, the dryer would only receive half the power it needs (i.e. 120V).

In simple terms, the other parts of the dryer, like the motor or control board, might receive power and function correctly.

In some cases, there is no handle tie connecting the two breaker handles (like in the photo below). If only one breaker trips, you will have a half-power scenario like discussed above.

When this happens, the heating element will not receive the power it requires and therefore can’t generate any heat.

How to fix: To fix this, you must restore full power to your Samsung dryer. Check your circuit breakers and identify which one powers your dryer.

Then, ensure that both of them are switched back on. If the same breaker keeps tripping, that’s a sign that there’s a potentially serious fault with your electrical system. 

You’ll need to refer to a professional electrician to troubleshoot the problem and a dryer repair technician if that problem lies within the Samsung dryer itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are a few frequently asked questions regarding Samsung dryers that aren’t heating.

Why Heating Element Keep Going Out?

Suppose you’ve replaced your burnt-out dryer heating element, and the new one burns out as well.

If that’s the case, then your dryer might be lacking proper airflow. Remember: the dryer needs good airflow to prevent overheating its parts, like the heating element.

Many homeowners neglect to clean their dryer vents and filters regularly. As a result, lint builds up and prevents the air from flowing efficiently.

No matter how clean you think your dryer vents are, they could almost always use another cleaning!

How Do You Know If The Heating Element Is Bad In A Dryer?

There are two ways you can inspect the heating element: visually and with a multimeter. To make it easier, you can remove your heating element and inspect it under a light.

 Just by looking closely at the heating element, you might be able to spot breaks or burn marks on the coils. Those are clear signs that the heating element is bad.

You can also use a multimeter to test for continuity and resistance. You can do that by pressing the multimeter probes to the wire terminals on the heating element. If equipped, your meter should beep if the heating element is still functioning correctly.

Is It Worth Replacing A Heating Element In A Dryer?

Replacing a dryer’s heating element might be costly (depending on where you live, of course), which is why some people consider buying a new dryer instead.

So, which should you do? Well, here’s a helpful rule of thumb: if the cost of repairing your existing dryer is 50% less than the price of a new dryer, then it might be advisable to just repair it.

In other words, if the repairs will cost more than half the price of a new dryer, then you might want to pay the difference and get a brand new model!

How Much Does It Cost To Replace The Heating Element In A Samsung Dryer?

Replacing the heating element in a Samsung dryer will involve two costs: the replacement part and the labor costs.

Typically, a Samsung dryer heating element can cost anywhere from $50 to $150. Paying the technician to replace it for you will cost anywhere from $120 to $200+ on top of that cost.

You could save a significant amount of money by replacing the heating element yourself.

However, you must have the know-how and experience to do it safely and correctly. If you’re ever unsure of yourself, it’s better to hire an expert to do it for you.

Error codes for Samsung dryer.

Clothes dryer model numbers covered in this article: DV306BEW, DV306LEW, DV316BEC, DV316BEW, DV316HEC, DV316LES, DV316LEW, DV317AEG, DV317AES, DV317AEW, DV328AEG, DV328AER, DV328AEW, DV330AEB, DV338AEB, DV330AEW, DV331AER, DV331AEW, DV337AEG, DV337AEL, DV337AER, DV337AEW, DV338AEW, DV339AEG, DV339AEL, DV339AER, DV339AES, DV339AEW, DV340AEG, DV340AER, DV350AEG, DV350AEP, DV350AER, DV350AEW, DV393ETPARA, DV393ETPAWR, DV395ETPARA, DV395ETPAWR, DV3C6BEW, DV405ETPASU, DV405ETPAWR, DV407AEW, DV409AER, DV409AEW, DV409SEL, DV410AER, DV410AEW, DV419AES, DV419AEU, DV419AEW, DV428AEL, DV428AEW, DV431AEP, DV431AEW, DV438AEL, DV438AER, DV448AEE, DV448AEP, DV448AEW, DV456EWHDWR, DV484ETHASU, DV484ETHAWR, DV501AEW, DV5451AEP, DV5451AEW, DV5471AEP, DV5471AEW, BED70B, BED70W, DV203AES, DV203AEW, DV206AES, DV206LEW, DV209AEW, DV210AES, DV210AEW, DV218AEB, DV218AES, DV218AEW, DV219AEB, DV219AEW, DV220AEW, DV221AEG, DV221AES, DV229AEG, DV231AEW, DV2C6BEW, MDE6700AYW, MDE6700AZW, MDE9700AYM, MDE9700AYW, MDE9700AZM, MDE9700AZW, NED7200TW, YIED7200TW, and YNED7200TW.