It can really leave you in a bind when your washer stops mid cycle.
Not only are your clothes sopping wet, but they’re more than likely covered with soap too.
So, why is this happening, and what can you do to fix it?
The solution below will depend on if you have a top loading or front loading machine.
Let’s take a look at troubleshooting some common issues and how to fix them.
For Top Loading Machine:
Failed Lid Switch
When your washer stops mid cycle with a top loading machine, this is the most common reason.
The switch assembly for the lid prevents your machine from spinning while the lid is open.
When the lid switch fails, it will cause the machine to stop mid-cycle.
To determine if the assembly is failing, it’s easiest to use a multimeter and test for continuity.
If you find that the lid switch has none, you will need to replace it.
Failed Actuator Switch
A failed actuator switch is the most common issue on a Whirlpool machine.
This part is important for several reasons. It has a synchronous motor that monitors the splutch position and shifts the splutch slider.
The actuator also houses a position/speed optical sensor for the transmission.
The splutch is the part that tells your washer to agitate or spin.
When this part fails you may hear some grinding noises.
You’ll also notice that the agitator and tub operate at slower speeds.
With some washer models, an error code of F7, E1, or E5 will appear.
When this occurs you’ll need to locate the actuator switch under the unit, remove the old one, and install a new one.
Jammed or Clogged Drain Pump
The drain pump is an important part of your washer, as it allows water to drain from the tub between cycles.
There are several things that can go wrong with the drain pump.
The seal can fail, bearing can seize up, or the blades on the impeller can get broken.
Aside from stopping mid-cycle, you may also notice a humming noise when the machine is full of water.
In most cases, small items such as socks, coins, or even lint make their way into the pump.
When this occurs you can reach the pump and clear it of debris.
If the drain pump is not clogged, then there’s a component inside that’s failing.
You can take it apart and see if you can rebuild it. If that’s not possible, you must replace it.
If your machine stopping mid-cycle is being caused by an unbalanced load, it will be accompanied by the UL error code.
To begin, you’ll want to see if the issue is as simple as the load inside the machine has shifted.
This is common when washing bulky items such as rugs or large blankets.
You’ll simply open the lid, and rearrange the items inside the tub, so they are spread out evenly on each side.
If this is not the case, it’s more than likely due to worn suspension rods.
To troubleshoot this, you’ll need to access the suspension rods and examine them for damages.
If you find that one is broken, it may be best to replace all of them at the same time.
Since they receive equal wear, this will prevent the rods from being an issue in the future.
For Front Loading Machine:
Water Pressure Switch Failed
The water pressure switch on your machine may be failing due to a blockage in the pressure hose, or it may have an electrical malfunction.
When this part fails you’ll notice the machine will begin filling with water, but soon it will stop and an error code will appear.
Begin by trying to clear the hose to get rid of any blockages.
If this doesn’t work, you’ll need to use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If you determine the part is faulty, it’ll need to be replaced.
However, if the continuity test doesn’t detect a problem, you’ll want to reconnect the cleaned and straightened pressure tube to the tub, and run a cycle to see if the problem is resolved.
Much like top loading machines, front loaders can suffer from unbalanced loads as well.
The first thing you’ll want to do is open the door to see if the load has shifted to one side.
If so, simply straighten it out and see if the machine is working properly.
If this doesn’t fix the problem, you’ll need to check if the shock absorbers failed.
Locate them between the outer tub and frame of the washer.
Inspect them carefully to see if they are worn, weak, loose, or have fluid leaking from them.
If you find one that’s broken, it’s best to replace both of them at once to prevent this issue again in the near future.
Failed or Clogged Drain Pump or Filter
The drain pump is essential for draining the water from the drum between cycles.
When the drain pump is malfunctioning the washer will not drain or continue the cycle.
In fact, the machine will stop and the door will remain locked.
If you hear the pump working, but it sounds as if it’s labored, there may be something clogging it.
To fix this, you’ll need to turn the machine off and find a way to drain the water.
You’ll then need to access the drain pump and examine it for clogs.
Also check the hose that connects to if for clogs. If you find one clear it out, and your problem should be remedied.
If that’s not the issue, you’ll need to investigate the pump further.
To do so, check the impellers to make sure they’re not broken. If you find that this part does have damage, replace it.
Another good indication that the drain pump has failed is if it makes no noises and you found no clog.
When this occurs, simply replace the pump and your problem is solved.
Sometimes your washer stopping mid-cycle is due to a wiring issue.
This is most common on Samsung top loading machines that have VRT technology.
To troubleshoot this issue, you’ll need to locate the hall sensor (speed sensor) to see if the wires attached to it are broken.
If the wires are damaged, the washer will not go into a spin cycle and this will cause the machine to stop.
Has your washer been stopping mid-cycle? Did you repair the problem? Comment below and let us know what the issue was and how you fixed it.