Frigidaire washers are effective and efficient thanks to many high-tech components inside, like the tachometer. Still, these parts are prone to failure, which will trigger a corresponding error code. So, for example, when the tachometer experiences a problem, the E59 error code is triggered.
The E59 error code on a Frigidaire washer is related to the tachometer malfunction. More specifically, the code is triggered when the washer doesn’t receive any signals from the tachometer for 3 seconds. The possible triggers are the tachometer, spin bearing, or speed control board.
Keep reading through this guide to discover how to fix the E59 error code.
Understanding the E59 Error Code
The E59 error code is triggered when the washer senses no signal from the tachometer for three seconds.
The tachometer is critical for the safe operation of your washer motor and the appliance as a whole. So, when the washer stops receiving signals from the tachometer, the appliance cannot continue with the current wash program.
You’ll have to fix the problem quickly so you can use your washer normally again.
What Is A Tachometer, And How Does It Work?
The tachometer, also known as the tachometer generator or tachogenerator, is a device that measures the rotational speed of your washer’s motor. It works electromagnetically to sense the speed of the washer motor and communicate that information to the washer’s control boards.
When the tachometer is working correctly, the washing machine can adjust the speed safely. For instance, it’ll increase speeds during the spin cycle when the drum must turn the fastest and stick to a slower speed when cleaning the laundry items inside.
As mentioned before, the E59 error code is triggered when the washer doesn’t receive any signals from the tachometer for three seconds. In the next section, we’ll dive into the most likely reasons for that to happen.
Read: Frigidaire Washer Code E52 – Troubleshooting Guide
Causes For This Error Code and How To Fix Them
The E59 error code is triggered by a faulty tachometer, a problematic spin bearing, or a failed speed control board. Here, we’ll look at each of these components and how you can fix them.
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Faulty Tachometer (On The Drive Motor)
What it is: As mentioned earlier, the tachometer is an electromagnetic device that measures the motor’s rotational speed. Doing so sends that information to the washer’s control boards to adjust the washer speed according to the cycles in the wash program.
The tachometer is located directly on the drive motor of the washing machine.
How it fails: The most likely reason the tachometer has become faulty is that it has suffered an electrical problem. For instance, problems like a short circuit or a power surge (like those during a lightning storm) could have caused electrical damage.
Besides that, excessive wear from being in use for many years could also cause it to become faulty.
How to fix it: As mentioned before, the tachometer is located directly on the drive motor itself. That means you can’t replace it as a separate component. That means you’ll have to replace the drive motor as a whole.
To do that, you’ll begin by removing the washer’s rear panel to access the drive motor. Next, you’ll find that it has a belt around it that connects it to the drum. Remove that belt, then remove the electrical connectors attached to the drive motor.
Next, unthread the screws that hold the motor mounted in place so you can remove it entirely. You’ll then be able to mount the motor and then replace the wires and belt the same way as before.
Problematic Spin Bearing (On The Outer Tub And Spin Basket)
What it is: You’ll find the spin bearing located on the outer tub of your washing machine. It’s designed to hold the transmission shaft and ensures it spins safely and correctly whenever the motor turns the tub.
The bearing also serves another critical purpose: it reduces friction when the tub turns. Not only does that mean the drive motor won’t need to work as hard when getting that tub to turn, but it also ensures that the turning happens without much noise.
That’s why washing machines are still relatively quiet even when they rotate at high speeds during the spin cycle.
How it fails: When troubleshooting the spin bearing, start by rotating the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub. When the bearing is working correctly, the pulley will spin freely. However, if you find that it fails to do that, that means you’ve narrowed down the problem to the spin bearing.
How to fix it: When the spin bearing is problematic and prevents the smooth and quiet turning of the tub, you must replace the outer tub and spin basket. This repair is very time consuming as it starts with removing the outer tub from the washer frame. Then, you’ll have to remove the washer’s components attached directly to the outer tub.
That includes the hoses and electrical connectors for parts like the drain pump, water level pressure switch, and anything connected to the outer tub.
Lastly, remove the outer tub cover as well.
From there, you must then reinstall the components by attaching them to the new outer tub before moving the tub into the washer’s frame.
Read: Washing Machine Making Loud Banging Noise On The Spin Cycle?
Failed Speed Control Board
What it is: The speed control board consists of a printed circuit board (PCB) with tiny components attached to it. Together, those components control how fast the drive motor turns and in which direction it does so.
The speed control board will increase or decrease the drive motor’s speed based on the current stage of the wash program that you’ve selected.
For example, the board will signal the motor to spin at its highest speed during the spin cycle and slow down at the end of the program.
How it fails: The speed control board will fail if any of its components are damaged. When that happens, the board can no longer send or receive signals to the drive motor correctly.
The damage could be due to an electrical surge or short circuit, which would cause components to overheat and burn. Besides that, any exposure to water or excessive heat can also cause damage to the board and its components.
How to fix it: The speed control board can’t be repaired, which is why you’ll need to replace it with a new one.
Firstly, access the inside of your washer to locate the board. Once you’ve found it, detach all of the wire harnesses and other connectors attached to it. Then, the last parts to remove are the mounting screws that hold the board.
Next, gently mount the new speed control board inside. Then, reconnect the wire harnesses and other electrical connectors the same way as with the old board.
Read: Frigidaire Washer Code E58 – Troubleshooting Guide
Clearing The E59 Code On Your Washer
The washer will clear the E59 error code once you’ve restored communication between the tachometer and the washer’s control boards. You can do so by identifying and solving the root cause following the steps above.
After the fix, you can then reset the washer to clear any active error code.
Resetting Your Washing Machine
You can reset your washer in three simple steps:
- First, turn off the washer and disconnect it from its power source.
- Wait for one minute so any electrical charge inside will dissipate, and the washer’s memory will clear.
- Finally, reconnect the washer and use it like you usually do.
After completing those three steps, you have successfully reset the washer.
Testing Your Washer After Fixing It
There are two ways to test your washer after fixing it. The first and most practical method is to wash a load of laundry. Then, if there still are any problems, the washer will show the E59 error code again.
The second method you can use is to enter the washer’s diagnostic mode.
Entering Diagnostic Mode To Run Tests and Read Error Codes
The diagnostic mode on your washing machine is activated by pressing the Power, Soak, and Extra Rinse buttons together.
When lights on the display start flashing, that means you’ve done it correctly. Then, you can select specific tests to run on the washer, like:
- The wash test, by pressing the Soil Level button.
- The spin test, by pressing the Temp button.
- The water valve test, by pressing the Fabric Softener button.
- The auto-sensing test, by pressing the Delay button.
While running any test, you can end it by pressing the Power button before selecting another one to run.