Icemakers are convenient and great to have. That is when they’re working.
Are you having problems with your Maytag/Whirlpool fridge icemaker not working?
When repairing an icemaker, it’s important to know how ice maker works and how much ice it should be producing.
Ice maker generally dumps once every one or two hours.
An icemaker that dumps ice one per hour has strong production, where one that dumps every two hours is weaker, but still acceptable.
On average, an icemaker should make anywhere from 80 to 175 ice cubes within 24-hours.
If you just turned your fridge on, you should give it at least 24 to 48 hours to fill the ice bin completely. Though keep in mind that every fridge is different, and it can take longer.
top reasons why Whirlpool refrigerator icemaker stops working.
At the very bottom of this article, we will show you the procedure on How To Test Ice Maker Components, but first, let start with possible issues which may cause these problems.
Freezer Temperature Goes UP
The temperature inside your freezer should be between 0 and -5 degrees Fahrenheit.
If the temperature goes above this, the ice maker will stop efficiently producing ice cubes.
If the freezer temperature is too high, try to lower it a bit.
Also check the condenser coils to ensure they are free of debris, and that the condenser fan is working.
The other thing you’ll want to look for is frost on the evaporator coils.
If the coils for the evaporator are frosted, it’s likely that a component of the defrost system has failed.
Because ice maker depends 100% on the freezer temperature. If something wrong will go with the freezer, ice maker will not work.
To get the best temperature reading make sure the freezer door has been closed at least 30 minutes prior to checking.
Failed Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is a valve that’s electronically controlled, and works to open thus allowing water into the dispenser and ice maker.
When the inlet valve becomes defective, or doesn’t have sufficient pressure, it stops allowing water to flow through.
This will result in your icemaker being unable to produce ice.
This valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to work correctly. So, first check that this is the amount of pressure going through the valve.
If you find the water pressure is normal, you’ll need to use a multimeter to check for power going to the inlet valve.
Also, without powering valve up, you can check the resistance of the valve coils using a multimeter, there should be 500-1500 Ohms.
If you find that the valve has good pressure and there’s power going to it, but your icemaker still isn’t working, replace the water inlet valve.
Faulty Icemaker Mold Thermostat
Another common reason a Whirlpool fridge will stop making ice is when the icemaker mold thermostat stops functioning.
The mold thermostat is important because it measures the temperature of the ice tray.
Upon the mold reaching the proper temperature, the icemaker ejected the cubes and refills the mold with water.
To check the thermostat you’ll need to use a multimeter to test for continuity. If there is no continuity present, replace the thermostat.
Here’s how to replace this part:
- Disconnect power to the unit
- Open the freezer door and remove the ice bin
- Reach in and lift on the shut off lever for the icemaker
- Locate the 2 mounting screws on the sidewall, don’t remove – just loosen
- Lift the icemaker off the mounting screws
- Disconnect the wiring harness from the icemaker
- Close the freezer door and place the icemaker on a suitable work surface
- Remove the front cover from the icemaker
- Disconnect the bail arm
- Remove the screws at the bottom of the icemaker head
- Remove the front of the icemaker head completely off – hold the eject lever in place as you do this
- The thermostat is now visible. Remove the thermostat and discard
- Replace the thermostat and begin reassembling the icemaker following these steps backward
Failed Icemaker Module
Whirlpool icemaker modules are equipped with a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms and turns the tray to dump ice cubes into the ice bin.
When the thermostat reaches 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the motor cycles to begin releasing the ice cubes.
Once this cycle is finished, the icemaker sends power to the water inlet valve to refill the mold tray with water.
When the icemaker module fails, the unit will not make or dispense any ice. The first things to check is that the on/off switch is in the correct position. You’ll also want to check the ejector blades (if they are present) for cubes jammed in them.
To replace the icemaker module, follow these steps:
- Disconnect the power
- Open the freezer door and remove the ice bin
- Remove or loosen the mounting screws that hold the icemaker in place
- Lift the icemaker off and remove the wiring harnesses attached to it
- Close the freezer door and move to a suitable work area
- Remove the front cover of the icemaker
- Remove the three screws holding the icemaker control module in place
- Remove the shut-off arm
- Pull the module off and discard
- Line up the D-shaped shaft and install the new icemaker control module
- Reassemble the unit moving backward
Faulty Ice Level Control Board
Another common reason Whirlpool fridge’s stop making ice is due to a faulty ice level control board. This part tells your fridge when the ice bin is full.
The best way to check this part is to use a multimeter and test for continuity. If you find no continuity, replace the part with these steps:
- Disconnect the power
- Open the freezer door and remove the two access panels on the side of the freezer
- Once the screws are out, you’ll be able to pull the access panel out and see the control board
- The control board is held on by a few screws, remove these
- Pull it out of the cover, and set the cover to the side
- Remove the wiring harness from the control board
- Move to the other access panel and remove the screws
- Follow the same steps to remove the second control board
- Replace both boards and reassemble
The kits available online contain both of these boards since they will both need to be changed at the same time.
How To Test Whirlpool Ice Maker?
If you will open front ice maker cover, you will find these test points indicated on the picture below.
Using these points you can check if internal components in fully working condition.
In order to test ice maker, you need a multimeter and isolated wire jumper.
Some tests you need to perform under the voltage, so make sure you follow all precautions to protect yourself from electrocuting.
With POWER ON :
To test if ice maker getting 120V AC power, using multimeter test between L and N
Note: some models of a Whirlpool refrigerator will not send power to the ice maker if the freezer door is open.
So if you will not get power on test points, push the freezer door switch and try again.
Using Isolated wire jumper test between:
T and H – Bimetal Thermostat – by jumping thermostat you will initiate harvest cycle. Ice maker wheel (as seen on the front) should make a full turn and then fill with water.
L and V – Water Inlet Valve – By jumping these test points for a couple of seconds, you will send power to the valve and ice maker should filling up with water.
Do not test it for more than 7 seconds, otherwise, the ice maker will be overfilled.
With POWER OFF :
Using multimeter test resistance between:
L and H – Mold Heater – You should get around 72 Ohms
L and M – Motor – 8.8 kOhms or 8800 Ohms
Have you had a Whirlpool icemaker stop producing ice?
What was the problem, and what did you do to fix it? We’d love to hear your thoughts, leave us a comment now and let’s discuss!