Dryer Keeps Tripping Breaker? A Master Electrician’s Guide.

James is a Master Electrician with over 30 years of experience. We do not use AI for the content of our articles.

If your dryer keeps tripping the breaker, a few things should be checked first. In most cases, it’s either a problem with the motor, heating element, a faulty wire or termination, worn-out breaker, or circuit overload. We’ll take a look at the most common (and not-so-common) causes of a dryer that keeps tripping the breaker.

Note: This guide covers electric dryers. If you have a gas dryer, your breaker issue is almost always the motor or the igniter circuit — not the heating element (since there isn’t one).

For a more extensive and deeper guide on what causes a breaker to trip, read the follow article: Why Does My Circuit Breaker Keep Tripping? Easy Fixes

But for breaker issues specific to a dryer, please read on….

Dryer Keeps Tripping The Breaker (immediately)

Identifying the source of the problem will dictate the best way to repair it. Let’s narrow it down quickly.

• Unplug the dryer and turn on the breaker.
• If it trips, you’ve ruled out the dryer as the culprit. This is a circuit issue.
• If the breaker holds, and only trips upon insertion of the dryer plug, it’s likely a termination issue with the outlet or cord.
• If the breaker holds until you actually turn the dryer on, this indicates something internal to the dryer (though there’s a chance it could still be a problem at the cord or outlet).
• If the dryer runs for a while before tripping the breaker, it points to the dryer being overworked over time – likely clogged filter, weak breaker, or tired motor.

A quick dissection of the system like this will save you a lot of time, pointing you in the right direction within minutes. We’ll cover the next steps for each of these four tests throughout this article.

Wrong Size Breaker or Wire

Now, before we go too far, take a look at the circuit breaker in your home electrical panel. The breaker for a typical dryer should be a 30 amp, 2-pole breaker. That means it has two, or the equivalent of two, handles (usually tied together with a bracket or pin).

If your breaker is smaller than 30 amps, this could be your problem. However, DO NOT SWAP OUT THE BREAKER FOR A LARGER BREAKER unless you know for sure that your copper wire is 10-gauge or larger (8-gauge minimum for aluminum).

If you’re in doubt about the wire size, have an electrician or other experienced individual take a look at it. You may be able to compare it to other wires in the panel that are on 30-amp breakers.

The breaker is sized according to the wire size to keep it from melting. If you have a 30-amp breaker and 10-gauge wire, great. You can check that off the list and move on.

If you have a smaller breaker on 10-gauge wire, then you MIGHT be able to upsize the breaker to a 30-amp. To be sure, you have to verify that the other end of that wire (at the dryer outlet) is also 10-gauge.

That smaller breaker may be there because the wire is spliced onto a smaller-gauge wire somewhere on its way to the outlet. Trust me, I’ve seen this many times on remodels.

You must size the breaker for the weakest link in the circuit. Period.

If you have circuit wire that is smaller than what your dryer requires, then you need to run a new circuit. It’s either that or get a smaller-draw dryer.

Circuit Breaker is Weak

Over time, circuit breakers can weaken, especially if they have tripped and been reset many times over the years. And, even if the amperage draw of the dryer is below the breaker’s original limit, it can cause it to trip if the breaker is getting tired.

However, a weak circuit breaker is not a common problem, except in older homes. Generally, breakers are quite reliable and have a good longevity to them.

But if your circuit breaker is 15 to 20 years old, it can weaken and start to trip occasionally. If the breaker is on the newer side, chances are good that your problem lies elsewhere.

One way to test is with a multimeter that incorporates an amp clamp or jaws. As the dryer runs, you can measure the amp draw on the circuit.

As mentioned above, a typical dryer is wired to a 30 amp breaker. So if you measure the amperage while the dryer runs, and it draws anywhere near 30 amps before the breaker trips, you can bet your problem is not the breaker.

In normal operation, a typical dryer will not exceed 21 amps. So if you get much more than that, it indicates an overcurrent problem at the dryer. Keep in mind that all dryers are different and I’m giving you general information here.

If the current (amp) draw is staying under 21 or so, and the breaker trips, then it could very well be a weak breaker. But pay attention to the precise spot in the drying cycle the breaker trips.

If you repeat the test, and it happens again at the same spot, the issue could still be inside the dryer itself.

Replacing a breaker is a fairly easy task for someone with a little experience. In fact, chances are, you have another 30 amp, 2-pole breaker in the panel (for a water heater or heat pump, for example). You can borrow that temporarily and test the dryer circuit on it.

Be sure to turn off your panel main breaker before you work on swapping around breakers. And again, if you’re not confident in your own abilities, get help.

If you determine it’s not a breaker problem, put it back together and move on to the next section below.

Heating Element or Heating Element Assembly Failure

The heating element might have failed in your dryer.

If this occurs, it can short out against the housing, and trip the circuit breaker. A key indicator is when the breaker trips at the same point in the drying cycle each time.

To check the heating element you’ll use a multimeter and test each terminal for continuity to the case (metal body or frame of the dryer).

Note: We earn a small commission on purchases, at no additional cost to you.

If continuity from either terminal to the case is present, the heating element has probably shorted out and needs to be replaced.

However, it’s also possible that the heating element assembly is at fault. You’ll check it similarly to the heating element, using a multimeter to test the terminals for continuity.

If it’s shorted out, you’ll have to replace the assembly.

Note: In most modern dryers, the heating element and assembly are packaged together so that you cannot replace them independently.

Internal Short

If the problem isn’t with the circuit breaker or a heating element failure, it might be an internal short that’s causing it to trip. Several issues can cause this including:

• A bad door switch
• Defective Timer
• Burnt motor windings
• The on/off switch isn’t operating correctly

To check each of these areas, you’ll use the ohmmeter setting of your multimeter. This will help determine if there is a short in one of the internal components of the dryer.

If so, you can replace or repair them, and this should likely resolve the tripping of the circuit breaker while the dryer is operating.

Terminal Block

Power cords on electrical dryers attach at a terminal block. If there are loose wires on the terminal block this can cause them to arc and ultimately disrupt the power source.

This can cause the wire to short against nearby grounded metal, and causes the dryer breaker to trip. Although not common, I have witnessed it myself.

More importantly, this arcing (especially at the amperages a dryer draws) causes a buildup of heat that can melt the wire insulation and even cause a fire.

What’s the solution? Check the terminal block. If wires are loose, tighten them. Screws or nuts should be nice and snug. Don’t overtighten.

If you notice signs of arcing ( soot and discolored or melted portions), you might have to replace the terminal block.

Pigtail Connection and Outlet

Having tight connections doesn’t help us if the wires are connected to the wrong terminals. So take a minute to make sure the pigtail is attached correctly at the terminal block. Make certain that all four (three in some cases) conductors are connected to their proper terminals.

Most dryers have color-coded terminals: Black, Red, White, & Green. Match color for color on the pigtail. Typically, the green conductor on the pigtail will attach to a green screw mounted to the sheet metal frame of the dryer.

Note: Technically, the black and red wires are interchangeable, but standard trade practice is to match the cord wire color to the terminal block wire color.

Once you’ve verified the proper connections, test the voltage of the wall outlet. this is easy to do and will rule out the possibility of a circuit issue.

With your multimeter set to AC VOLTS, you should get the following readings:

• Black to Red: +/-240 volts
• Black to White: +/-120 volts
• Black to Green: +/-120 volts
• Red to White: +/-120 volts
• Red to Green: +/-120 volts
• White to Green: 0 volts

Ideally, voltage readings should fall within 10% below, and 5% above the numbers above. In other words, between 218 and 252 volts, or between 109 and 126 volts.

If your voltages are within range, great. Even if they’re slightly outside the range, it’s still okay. Your tripping problem lies elsewhere.

What to do if the voltages are incorrect

If your voltages are out of range, there is a circuit issue. In that case, you need to check the connections to the wall outlet.

• First, turn off the breaker.
• Remove the outlet cover and also the screws securing the receptacle to the box.
• Pull the outlet out so that you have clear access to the terminal screws at the back of the outlet.
• Make sure all wires are spread out and not touching each other, allowing you to get your multimeter leads to the terminals.
• Check that the proper wires are connected to the appropriate terminals.
• Check each one for tightness, and make sure there is no insulation or other debris inhibiting the connection. You want metal-to-metal only.
• Turn the breaker on and test the terminals for the same voltages listed above.
• Fix anything that is incorrect. If everything checks out, move on.

With the wall outlet in good shape, next check will be at the panel.

Note: Only work inside the electrical panel if you are comfortable and competent doing so. There are many points of danger in a live panel.
I highly recommend that you turn off the main breaker, except for the short amount of time you need it on for testing purposes.

• Make sure the dryer is not plugged into the outlet before performing this test, as this could skew your meter readings.
• Locate the breaker that serves the dryer. Once the cover is off, it’s harder to find it.
• Carefully remove the panel cover, being sure not to bump any breaker handles in the process.
• Check for tight connections at the breaker terminals and at the neutral and ground bars. Also, make sure the wire insulation is not under the terminal screw, preventing a good connection.
• Turn the main breaker on, and make sure the dryer breaker is also on.
• Test for the same voltages as stated above for the corresponding wires.
• If your voltages are off here, that indicates a bad breaker.

Read: How to tell if a Circuit Breaker Is Bad

Drive Motor

If the drive motor has failed it will short out internally. This can cause the dryer to trip the circuit breaker.

Like other parts, you’ll want to use a multimeter to check if there’s continuity in the drive motor.

If the windings are shorted out, you’ll need to replace motor. See the video below for tips on testing and replacement.

Dryer Keeps Tripping Breaker after 10 Minutes

Sometimes the breaker will not trip right away, but only after a few minutes. This clue gives you a way to zero-in more closely on what the exact problem is.

Weak Circuit Breaker

In some instances, this is caused by a weak breaker. As mentioned earlier, the breaker should have an amp rating of 30, but your dryer likely only draws a maximum of 21 amps.

A weak breaker will often hold for a few minutes before finally giving up and tripping. It can take a bit of time for the resistance heat to build enough to trigger it.

To test the load draw of your dryer, you’ll use a clamp or fork-style amperage meter around the wire (while the dryer is running).

Note: We earn a small commission on purchases, at no additional cost to you.

This will require removing the electrical panel cover or the dryer terminal cover. This test is done while the circuit is live, so be sure you are competent with basic electrical knowledge before attempting.

If you measure less than 30 amps, yet the breaker trips, the breaker is weak or defective and needs to be replaced. If the amp draw goes above 30 before the breaker trips, the problem is at the dryer, and the breaker is fine.

Heating Element Check

We discussed a short-circuited heating element above, but now we’ll talk about a weak or oversized element, which can cause a delay in the tripped breaker.

In this case, it is not due to direct contact between energized and grounded parts of the system. Rather, there is an improper resistance present that is causing the delayed breaker trip.

To test the heating element, disconnect both wires so that it has no reference to any part of the circuit. Using the ohm setting on a multimeter, check the resistance reading.

For most residential dryers, this number should fall between 7.8 to 11.8 ohms.

If the reading isn’t between these numbers, you might have a faulty heating element. If this is the case, replacing it should resolve the problem.

Too large of Laundry Load (Delayed breaker tripping)

Usually, if you overload your dryer with too much clothing (or blankets, or curtains, etc.), the built-in overheat protection device will shut your dryer off before it trips your breaker. However, there are a couple of other components that overloading can affect, which may cause a trip.

• The extra weight can cause the motor to work harder, which draws more amps.
• Lack of air flow through the densely packed materials causes temperatures to rise, also contributing to higher amperage draw.

Keeping the loads to a normal size will not only reduce the risk of tripping the breaker, but will also extend the useful life of your dryer.

Read this article on Why A Dryer is Overheating

When to Call an Electrician or Technician

This article is not an exhaustive list of things that can cause a tripped breaker. I only covered the most common culprits.

If you are unsure of your abilities, call a professional. We can usually get to the heart of the problem quickly, find the correct replacement parts, and fix it safely.

You do not want to throw parts at your dryer until something works. Nor do you want to risk personal injury by working with live electrical components.

However, in the spirit of DIY, if you follow our advice, take the necessary precautions, and think through it logically….you should be able to solve most appliance repairs yourself.

And if you just need a little extra pro guidance, but don’t want the full repair bill, you can chat with a specialist through the link at the bottom of this article.

Conclusion

The above steps should help you figure out why your dryer keeps tripping the breaker. Taking a logical, patient approach will almost always yield favorable results.

Remember to always consult the manual for your specific dryer model. Parts and their locations vary from model to model.

Related: Dryer Moisture sensor Problems