Few things are as stressful as discovering your Samsung refrigerator has stopped cooling, especially when you’re worried about food spoilage. Samsung units are widely known for their advanced Twin Cooling Plus technology, but they are equally notorious for specific failures—ranging from simple ice buildup on the evaporator fan to more complex compressor inverter board issues. Whether your freezer is still working but the fridge is warm, or the entire unit has shut down completely, identifying the root cause is the first step toward a fix. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the most common reasons your Samsung fridge isn’t cooling and provide step-by-step DIY solutions to get your kitchen back in order.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
The most common reason a Samsung fridge stops cooling is ice or frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which restricts air circulation. This is often caused by a faulty defrost heater, a clogged drain line, or a failed defrost sensor.
Quick Fix Checklist:
- Activate Forced Defrost (Fd): Press and hold the Freezer and Lighting (or Energy Saver/Fridge) buttons for 8 seconds until you hear a chime, then toggle to “Fd” on the display. See below for more model specifics.
- Check for Blockages: Ensure air vents inside the fresh food compartment aren’t blocked by oversized items.
- Inspect the Fan: If you hear a grinding noise that stops when you open the door, ice is likely hitting the evaporator fan blades.
- Verify Demo Mode: If the display shows “OF OF” or “O FF,” the fridge is in Demo Mode. Hold Freezer and Alarm to deactivate.
If Not Cooling Properly, But Freezer Works.
The evaporator coils are frosted over:
When the evaporator coils get covered with frost, the evaporator fan is unable to circulate cold air within the fridge due to blockage, and the fridge will not cool. This problem is related to failed defrost cycle. Sometimes, the problem can be solved by replacing the defrost temperature sensor (but it does not always fix the problem)
There are actually 2 identical temperature sensors. But you will need one with the white connector on the right side of the fridge.
If you see ice build-up on the back wall in the vent holes, where it says “Twin Cooling” of your fridge or maybe you hear noise coming from the fridge, but when you open the door noise is just gone? That means you have an issue with condensation which accumulates behind that panel and eventually becomes frost or even ice chunks.
In case there is an issue with proper drainage (drain is fully or partially clogged) during Defrost Cycle, you will have standing water at the bottom.
Standing water evaporates and condensates at the top section of the Twin Cooling Panel, causing the evaporator fan to ice up.
This problem also refers to, when you have water in or under the crisper drawers and your Samsung fridge starts to leak because the drain line is clogged and water is overflowing.
In this case, you need Drain Repair Kit below, and here is the video of what you need to fix these issues permanently.
Evaporator fan frosted over:
If your Samsung fridge is not cooling, one common cause is that your evaporator fan is blocked by ice. You need to check your evaporator fan to make sure it’s working or not.
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If you have a french-door refrigerator, close the left door and put an ordinary magnet on the right side of the fridge to simulate the right door closing.
After a couple of seconds, the evaporator fan should start spinning. If you don’t hear the fan running, most likely fan blades are blocked by ice, or the fan is burnt. You can defrost the fan through forced defrost, or replace it with a new evaporator fan. Read the article below for details on ice on the evaporator fan. New fans can be purchased on Amazon for $15-20, depending upon model number click here.
Related Read: Troubleshooting All Samsung Refrigerator Noises
Defective or Weak Defrost heater :
Under normal circumstances, the defrost heater assembly (you can get one here) is responsible for defrosting any frost that has been formed on the evaporator coils in the refrigerator, whose function is to allow cold air to freely flow thereby leading to the freezer cooling.
However, when the defrost heater assembly is not functioning accordingly, excess frost will build upon the evaporator coils, as a result, the airflow will be restricted, which will result in the fridge not cooling.
Note: We may receive a small commission from your purchase, at no additional cost to you. Double check model numbers before ordering.
A defective thermistor or temperature sensor:
When working properly this component keeps in check the temperature of the refrigerator and transmits the information on the temperature reading to the control board so that appropriate power can be supplied to the evaporator fan as well as the compressor for effective cooling in return.
But when the thermistor is defective both the compressor and the evaporator fan may not work properly. Get a replacement here: Amazon.
Defrost thermostat failure:
This component allows the power to flow to the heater. When it fails, power will not flow and the heater will not be able to heat up and melt ice or frost which may build up on the evaporator coils. Amazon has replacements for most models.
How To Activate Forced Defrost Mode?
To activate the Forced Defrost (Fd) mode on most Samsung refrigerators, you need to use a specific button combination on the control panel. This is the most effective way to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coils without unplugging the unit for 24 hours. The “Fd” mode forces the defrost heater to turn on. It will melt ice around the coils and the evaporator fan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Locate your buttons: Find the two buttons required for your specific model (see the combinations below).
- Enter Service Mode: Press and hold both buttons simultaneously for 8 to 12 seconds. The display will go blank or start flashing.
- Cycle to “Fd”: Once the screen begins flashing, tap any other button (usually the Fridge or Lighting button) repeatedly until the letters “Fd” appear on the display.
- Listen for the Beep: Once “Fd” is selected, the fridge will begin to beep. This beep will continue throughout the entire defrost cycle (usually 20–30 minutes) to remind you that the heaters are running.
Button Combinations by Model Type
Since Samsung control panels vary, try these common combinations:
- Type A (Most French Door models):
Freezer+Lighting - Type B (Models with Energy Saver):
Energy Saver+Fridge - Type C (Family Hub/Touchscreens): Look for the “Cooling” or “Fridge Manager” app in settings, or use
Freezer+Fridgeon the physical door buttons. - Type D (Internal Controls):
Fridge+Freezer(orPower Cool+Power Freeze)
- How to stop it: To exit the mode early, repeat the button combination and tap through the menu until the screen returns to normal, or simply unplug the fridge for 30 seconds.
- Check the Drain: If you have heavy ice buildup, the defrost water might overflow if your drain tube is clogged. Keep a towel handy near the bottom back of the fridge.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the fridge in “Fd” mode for more than one cycle (usually 30 mins) at a time. If the ice is very thick, you may need to repeat the process, but allow the unit to rest between cycles to prevent the plastic internal panels from warping.
To exit the Forced Defrost mode you can simply unplug the power from the wall or wait 20 minutes till forced defrosting will be done.
Possible Cooling Problem Solution – DIY Heater
This DIY secondary heater may help to evenly distribute heat to defrost ice build-ups in the upper section of the evaporator coil and thus providing proper airflow and proper cooling temperature all the time.
If Freezer And Fridge Not Cooling At All
Compressor Inverter Board Failed
The compressor inverter board controls power to the compressor and adjusts its speed to regulate cooling. If the board fails, the compressor won’t receive power, and both the fridge and freezer will stop cooling completely. Troubleshooting the issue requires using a
Compressor Malfunctioned
If the compressor is getting power and maybe even humming, but not producing cold, this is one of the reasons when the compressor is lost efficiency or failed either mechanically or electrically.
Refrigerant Leak In The Sealed System
A sealed system is where the refrigerant circulating from the compressor to the evaporator coils and back. This system contains lots of copper or aluminum tubes.
When one of the tubes has developed a tiny hole, it will create a leak and the refrigerant in the system will escape and evaporates eventually.
Restricted Drier Filter
This problem is not new to the Samsung refrigerator. From my experience as a Appliance repair technician, I have seen this many times.
The drier filter serves to filter moisture, dirt from the compressor. When its clogged by any of these particles, it will restrict refrigerant flow in the system and thus compressor will not be able to push or pump refrigerant.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling Because of Ice Buildup — Key Points
- Ice buildup can block cold air circulation, causing the fridge to feel warm despite frost inside.
- A frozen evaporator fan can’t distribute cold air when ice traps the blades.
- Worn or damaged door seals let warm, moist air in, leading to excess frost.
- A failed defrost heater means frost isn’t melted during defrost cycles, so ice accumulates.
- In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board disrupts regular defrosting and airflow.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling After a Power Outage: Quick Troubleshooting Steps
- Fridge has power (lights/display on) but isn’t cooling properly
- Perform a full power reset (unplug or flip breaker for several minutes)
- Try a control panel reset (Power Freeze + Power Cool buttons)
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after power restoration
- Check if the compressor is running or clicking but not starting
- Inspect for surge damage to the main control board or inverter board
- Ensure vents and airflow inside the fridge and freezer aren’t blocked
- Confirm condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating normally
Fridge Not Cooling after you have moved it
If your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling after a move, it’s likely because the internal fluids haven’t had enough time to settle. To fix this, you should leave the unit unplugged and undisturbed in its new location for at least three hours to allow oils and lubricants to return to the compressor. Additionally, ensure the appliance is plugged into a functioning power source and allow a full 24 to 48 hours for it to reach its set temperature, keeping the doors closed as much as possible to speed up the process. If these steps don’t work, a simple 5-minute “power cycle” reset may clear any temporary electronic glitches caused by the relocation.
Control Board needs a Reset– Not Cooling
You can reset your refrigerator through power cycling when it’s not producing any cooling. Start by disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Then, leave it alone for at least 5 minutes to reset. It will reset the fridge’s control board/inverter board and get rid of any active errors. Then, reconnect the refrigerator and check that cooling is restored.
Quick Reset Checklist
- Step 1: Cut the Power – Completely disconnect the fridge from electricity. Unplug it from the wall, or if the plug is inaccessible, shut off the dedicated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
- Step 2: Wait 5 Minutes – Leave the unit unpowered for at least 5 minutes. This allows any residual electricity in the control board to dissipate, clearing the memory and any active error codes.
- Step 3: Restore Power – Plug the fridge back in or turn the breaker back on. The system will reboot from scratch.
- Step 4: Monitor the Display – Check for any flashing error codes. Put your hand near the vents to feel for airflow.
- Step 5: Be Patient – If the reset worked, it can still take a few hours for the fridge to return to your set temperature. Keep the doors closed during this time to retain cold air.
When to Use This Reset
- The fridge is running but not cooling.
- The display is showing error codes (it clears “ghost” codes so you can see if the problem persists).
- The fridge is acting up following a power outage or voltage surge.
Note: If the fridge still doesn’t cool after one reset, I don’t recommend repeating the process; at that point, it’s likely a mechanical failure (like a fan or compressor) that requires a technician.
Ghost Temperature Readings
A common issue in 2024-2025 models involves the control panel displaying the set temperature rather than the actual internal temperature.
- The Problem: The fridge may say it is 37°F, but the actual temperature inside has risen to 45°F or higher due to a cooling failure.
- The Cause: Often linked to faulty freon line fittings or a malfunctioning evaporator fan that runs intermittently.
- Tip: If you suspect a cooling issue, power cycle the fridge (unplug for 2 minutes). When it reboots, it will usually flash the real current temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is My Brand New Samsung Fridge Not Cooling?
One of the reasons is that your new fridge still in DEMO MODE. If you see on the display that says o FF or oF oF, that means your fridge still in the DEMO MODE.
In order to deactivate DEMO MODE, press and hold FREEZER and ALARM buttons until you hear a chime. If this combination of buttons will not work, try to press and hold FREEZER, ALARM, and FRIDGE buttons until you hear a chime.
If everything above is checked OK, that means you didn’t give the fridge enough time to cool.
If you have a new Samsung Family Hub Fridge and it still not cooling, you might need to activate Cooling Mode in the fridge settings.
How Long Does It Take For A New Samsung Fridge To Get Cold?
To get cold to a temperature of 0F for the freezer and 36F for the fridge compartments, a brand new Samsung Fridge requires at least 2-4 hours before you can put food in it.
Why Is my Fridge Not Cooling and Making Noise?
Most likely it caused by the ice build-up blocking or touching the evaporator fan blades, that’s why fan is making noise and may slow down air circulation. But If you open the fridge section door and this noise goes away, it is 100% related to the ice accumulation behind the TWIN COOLING panel.
Hi, Eugene:
I have a Samsung RFG297AARS. Both Fridge and Freezer not working. If I unplug the power a few minutes, then power on. It will start cooling and freezing. But it only last a couple days. then it needs unplug again. Could you help me to figure it out what the potential problem are? I have spent a couple hundred dollars on it but the technician can’t fix the issue.
Thank you very much for your help.
Quanxing
Its not an easy one, you need to monitor compressor how often it turns on and off. Can you confirm that, when it stop cooling compressor still running? If yes, then probably compressor failing or there is an issue with sealed system
I defrosted my Samsung RF4287HARS/xaa01 for 8 hours and cleared the drain tube and evaporator fan using a hairdryer. It is definitely improved, but frig is not getting down as cool as it should (39-42instead of 35-38). Any suggestions? I am wondering if I did not complete the defrost and airflow is still restricted somewhere I cannot see.
Eugene,
I think I have read the off for 24 hours before. Is there anything in the brains of these things that will reset after that much time?
Thank you,
Mike
Hello. I have light brown water collecting in the right hand vegetable drawer of my Samsung French door bottom freezer unit. I recently had to reset the fridge bc the freezer was not getting below 4 degrees. That seems to be fine now. Please advise. Thank you for your help. Am happy to compensate you for your time.
Hi Mr. Smith,
I have a seven year old Samsung french door refrigerator, model RF263TEAEBC. The freezer works perfect. The fridge is 10 deg higher than the temperature reads when I press the control panel. I have done a quick cool and the temp read says it is 26 deg but the actual is 36. That is as cold as I can get it. When quick cool is off, it will settle at an actual of 44 and the display says 34.
I have changed the temp sensor inside the fridge. Nothing changed. I have no frost issues on the evaporator. I have placed a magnet on the door sensor and verified the fan is working.
All the seals look good. Any ideas what it might be or what I should check next?
Thank you in advance,
Mike
Hi Mike, just wondering how you are measuring temperature? Cause temp may vary depends where you measure it.
Hi Eugene,
I have a glass of water inside and I use a digital thermometer. I probably should put more than one glass. Good point. I should set up in a few different locations. I bought something on Amazon that has two separate sensors that I can monitor without having to open the door. I hope that works better.
Eugene,
I bought a set of wireless thermometers that I can read from the outside of the fridge. I put one on the back of the bottom shelf and one on the front of the top shelf. I figured I would put one as close to the source as possible and one as far from the source as possible. The temp is set on the front panel at 34.
I have been logging the temps since this morning. When it was 42.3/40.8, it was opened for 30 sec. It went up to 44.8/41.7. I did a quick cool until it reached 36.9 / 32.2.
It was not opened for 2.5 hours. At that point it was 39.4/38.3. It was opened for an extended time to put some items in and it climbed to 48.4/43.
30 min later it is at 48.4 / 42.6. That’s where I’m at. I don’t know what it could be.
Thank you again,
Mike
Don’t know Mike why fridge temp is fluctuating that much. But, what if you will check if any frost behind the back panel? It may partially block air circulation in the fridge. Or you can turn fridge off for 24 hours with the door open and then turn ON to see if will start maintaining proper temp.
Eugene,
I’ve checked for frost behind the back panel. There was none. I’ve ordered a new main board. It’s worth a shot before I drop 2k on another refrigerator. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thank you,
Mike
I’m having the same exact issue as Mike. I’ve replaced the thermosister and evaporator fan. Defrost is working right but temperature is swinging 15 degrees or more throughout the day.
Hello. I have a French door bottom freezer Samsung and freezer will not get below 4 degrees. Top fridge seems to be working fine though there is a light brown liquid that always seems to condense in right hand vegetable drawer and I can see it dripping down the back panel under the Twin Cooling logo. Is there any chance I could speak to you over the phone? Thank you.
Hi Kathryn, sorry you can’t speak with me over the phone )) But here is what you can do…Pull the fridge out and check drain tube, to make sire they are not clogged inside. Seems like drain line on you fridge partially clogged. Clean it
I have a samsung model rfg298aabp that stopped cooling the fridge and freezer both. I replaced the compressor overload protector but it didn’t make a difference. The compressor checks out fine. What else can be the problem. The compressor fan works fine also.
Drier filter restricted, not allowing freon to flow in the system.
Where is dryer filter located ?? Could this be my problem ??
Drier filter located behind the fridge, close to compressor. But you cant fix it by your own, you need to call tech to do this job.
Hi. I have a 6yr old samsung french door refrigerator. I’m encountering problems lately. 1st it was ice build-up on the refrigerator above the twin-cooling wall. I defrost the ref and went okay. Then, after sometime I heard a loud sound like a fun running but everytime I open the refrigerator it will stop. Then I pressed the freezer and lighting panel to fix the problem. It worked for a little bit then the fun went loud again and finally stopped. But when it stopped, I noticed that the refrigerator is not cooling enough. I pull out the plug to defrost it for 12 hrs. When I plug it back today, I set it to -2 for freezer and 38 for refrigerator. But it seems like the I’m not getting enough cold for both freezer and refrigerator. Can you please help me?
As much as possible I don’t want to call service man bec of the corona virus. I hope you can help me figure out what’s going on. Thank you!
Ailene Apuya
The noise or loud sound you heard, was coming from evaporator fan which partially blocked by ice. When this fan is stopped, air will not circulate inside the fridge and the temp will go up. You need to turn fridge OFF for 24 hours and let it thaw. Then you need to pull the fridge out and change drain tube behind the fridge (see post above). By changing these tubes, It should help to drain properly and not to collect condensation in the fridge
Hi,
I have a Samsung fridge freezer (I don’t have the model to hand), the style is the full right hand side is the fridge side and the full left hand side is the freezer section, there is no water/ ice compartment. Both the fridge and freezer are no longer cooling, I have reset the unit by holding both the power buttons down and it has reset but this still hasn’t helped. I have had it off at the plug for 15 minutes, you can hear the noises kick in as though it is working but nothing? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Pull the fridge out and check if compressor is running. If it’s running but not cooling, its either sealed system issue and compressor failed. If its not running, but you hear clicks coming from the compressor, then check start relay on the compressor. Start relay sometimes also fail
Thanks for all the posts Eugene. RF4287HARS/XXA01 Symptom #1: fridge was only cooling to 50+ degree Fahrenheit. The drawer and freezer were fine.
Response #1: Defrosted fridge. Removed back panel — completely iced up. Evaporator fan iced up. Installed larger aluminum part I found on Amazon to better keep drain hole clear. Checked evaporator fan and it was working and seemed to be getting proper voltage.
Symptom #2: Now fridge only getting to 41 although set for 36-38.
Response #2: what do you think I should do? Thermistor?
Thanks for your help!
Don’t think so, that its a thermistor issue. BTW did you change or clean drain tubes, which is located behind the fridge?
Yes. The tubes are clear. To test I poured warm water down the drain hole below the evaporator fan, and it came out one tube (the ice maker side) but not the other.
I have a two years old Samsung side by side door referigerator. From last week i have experiencing cooling problem in freezer sides, whereas fridge side is working Ok, showing a temperature of 4degC. The freezer side is going minimum to 3 deg C (sometime showing -15 C, but no ice formation in freezer compartment). Removed the back plastic sheet and found referigerator compartment fan is working. No ice was found on aluminum fins. Can you please tell is this a sensor issue or something else?
You said: Removed the back plastic sheet and found refrigerator compartment fan is working. What about the freezer compartment, evaporator fan is working?
Refrigerator not working Samsung French door. Both the fridge and the freezer not working. Fan turns on, when I reset it doesn’t work either. Took out thermostats and it works. Need help before I buy another one. Someone told me is the compressor.
Hi Lewis, pull the fridge out and check if compressor is running. If not, then check the start relay on the compressor. But if compressor is running but not cooling, its either sealed system issue or compressor lost efficiency or just failed.
Got a cooling issue with a Samsung RF28HFEDTSR/AA
Only a fridge compartment or freezer as well not cooling?
My Samsung refrigerator freezing compartment Snap freeze enero I think it has problem with some electronic control board but I don’t know what you want will be
I have an RF28HMEDBSR/AA
Twin cooling panel freezing up fridge not cooling.
I found instructions to turn on defrost said should show FD on the panel but showed FF instead (is this just different for my model ?) waiting to see if defrosts. it is beeping constantly how can i stop that ?
Hi I have a samsung side by side fridge freezer model RSA1WTMH the front was getting hot I read it could be the fan that cools the condenser coils I have changed it and also the freezer thermostat both the fan still does run any ideas
Regards Dave
Right Dave, this issue usually related with condenser fan. But if you confirm that condenser fan behind the fridge is working, then i dont have idea what else could be
Hi Eugene. I have a Samsung twin cooling ref. My mother once cleaned the ref and when she plugs it back we noticed the freezer is not working. I put it to a service center and they charged me around 150 dollars for vaccuming and putting freons as they claimed. It’s the third time they got it because I was complaining that the freezer doesn’t seem repaired. They say it could be power supply coming from my plug? I was wondering because that has been the plug since I got it. I’m confused. Please enlighten me.
Hello, if it was sealed system issue and lack of freon, both freezer and fridge compartment will not stay cold, because they are supplying from the same source. Hard to say what happened in your case though
My Samsung is not cooling or freezing. Twin cool fan works, the fan by the compressor works, I can hear the compressor come on, no frost build up or clogged drains, and no codes. Did this about 2 months ago, I took it all apart, checked behind the twin cooling panel, and only found a clogged drain tube. Cleaned it, put it all back together, and it worked fine until a couple of days ago.
RF23HCEDBSR my fridge model
There always ice build up where is the twin cooling in the back panel how do I fix this problem. My temperature always flashing too
Check drain tubes behind the fridge to make sure they are not clogged
Hi
I have a Samsung RL28FBSI1/XFA fridge that does not want to cool even after I replaced the compressor. the light inside also does not want to turn on. Is there anything i can do to get it back on please. Thank you.
Did you replace compressor by yourself?
Refrigerator not cooling properly—ice seen on vents at back of refrigerator.
Freezer is working fine!
Took off Drain tube and it did not appear to be clogged.
Suggestions???
Remove back panel where is says Twin cooling after manual defrosting. Can you see a chunk of ice in the drain hole? If yes, then drain line clogged. If not, then you nave air leak into the evaporator coils area.
I have a RF267ABBP been in storage. Hooked up and would not cool. Had a technician said it was condensor fan motor assembly. I changed those out and the fan will still not turn, what is the next step?
Hi, I have Samsung model RF267. It a in FD mode as as SPEAK. How long does the FD Last for. It’s been beeping for about 35 mins. I am FD because of ice build up behind Twin Cooling system.
Thanks
FD will not help you. it will come back again. You need to fix cause of the problem (which is condensation), but not a consequence (ice build up)
Check and see if there is an extender you can out on drain thing ??