Few things are as stressful as discovering your Samsung refrigerator has stopped cooling, especially when you’re worried about food spoilage. Samsung units are widely known for their advanced Twin Cooling Plus technology, but they are equally notorious for specific failures—ranging from simple ice buildup on the evaporator fan to more complex compressor inverter board issues. Whether your freezer is still working but the fridge is warm, or the entire unit has shut down completely, identifying the root cause is the first step toward a fix. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the most common reasons your Samsung fridge isn’t cooling and provide step-by-step DIY solutions to get your kitchen back in order.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
The most common reason a Samsung fridge stops cooling is ice or frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which restricts air circulation. This is often caused by a faulty defrost heater, a clogged drain line, or a failed defrost sensor.
Quick Fix Checklist:
- Activate Forced Defrost (Fd): Press and hold the Freezer and Lighting (or Energy Saver/Fridge) buttons for 8 seconds until you hear a chime, then toggle to “Fd” on the display. See below for more model specifics.
- Check for Blockages: Ensure air vents inside the fresh food compartment aren’t blocked by oversized items.
- Inspect the Fan: If you hear a grinding noise that stops when you open the door, ice is likely hitting the evaporator fan blades.
- Verify Demo Mode: If the display shows “OF OF” or “O FF,” the fridge is in Demo Mode. Hold Freezer and Alarm to deactivate.
If Not Cooling Properly, But Freezer Works.
The evaporator coils are frosted over:
When the evaporator coils get covered with frost, the evaporator fan is unable to circulate cold air within the fridge due to blockage, and the fridge will not cool. This problem is related to failed defrost cycle. Sometimes, the problem can be solved by replacing the defrost temperature sensor (but it does not always fix the problem)
There are actually 2 identical temperature sensors. But you will need one with the white connector on the right side of the fridge.
If you see ice build-up on the back wall in the vent holes, where it says “Twin Cooling” of your fridge or maybe you hear noise coming from the fridge, but when you open the door noise is just gone? That means you have an issue with condensation which accumulates behind that panel and eventually becomes frost or even ice chunks.
In case there is an issue with proper drainage (drain is fully or partially clogged) during Defrost Cycle, you will have standing water at the bottom.
Standing water evaporates and condensates at the top section of the Twin Cooling Panel, causing the evaporator fan to ice up.
This problem also refers to, when you have water in or under the crisper drawers and your Samsung fridge starts to leak because the drain line is clogged and water is overflowing.
In this case, you need Drain Repair Kit below, and here is the video of what you need to fix these issues permanently.
Evaporator fan frosted over:
If your Samsung fridge is not cooling, one common cause is that your evaporator fan is blocked by ice. You need to check your evaporator fan to make sure it’s working or not.
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If you have a french-door refrigerator, close the left door and put an ordinary magnet on the right side of the fridge to simulate the right door closing.
After a couple of seconds, the evaporator fan should start spinning. If you don’t hear the fan running, most likely fan blades are blocked by ice, or the fan is burnt. You can defrost the fan through forced defrost, or replace it with a new evaporator fan. Read the article below for details on ice on the evaporator fan. New fans can be purchased on Amazon for $15-20, depending upon model number click here.
Related Read: Troubleshooting All Samsung Refrigerator Noises
Defective or Weak Defrost heater :
Under normal circumstances, the defrost heater assembly (you can get one here) is responsible for defrosting any frost that has been formed on the evaporator coils in the refrigerator, whose function is to allow cold air to freely flow thereby leading to the freezer cooling.
However, when the defrost heater assembly is not functioning accordingly, excess frost will build upon the evaporator coils, as a result, the airflow will be restricted, which will result in the fridge not cooling.
Note: We may receive a small commission from your purchase, at no additional cost to you. Double check model numbers before ordering.
A defective thermistor or temperature sensor:
When working properly this component keeps in check the temperature of the refrigerator and transmits the information on the temperature reading to the control board so that appropriate power can be supplied to the evaporator fan as well as the compressor for effective cooling in return.
But when the thermistor is defective both the compressor and the evaporator fan may not work properly. Get a replacement here: Amazon.
Defrost thermostat failure:
This component allows the power to flow to the heater. When it fails, power will not flow and the heater will not be able to heat up and melt ice or frost which may build up on the evaporator coils. Amazon has replacements for most models.
How To Activate Forced Defrost Mode?
To activate the Forced Defrost (Fd) mode on most Samsung refrigerators, you need to use a specific button combination on the control panel. This is the most effective way to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coils without unplugging the unit for 24 hours. The “Fd” mode forces the defrost heater to turn on. It will melt ice around the coils and the evaporator fan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Locate your buttons: Find the two buttons required for your specific model (see the combinations below).
- Enter Service Mode: Press and hold both buttons simultaneously for 8 to 12 seconds. The display will go blank or start flashing.
- Cycle to “Fd”: Once the screen begins flashing, tap any other button (usually the Fridge or Lighting button) repeatedly until the letters “Fd” appear on the display.
- Listen for the Beep: Once “Fd” is selected, the fridge will begin to beep. This beep will continue throughout the entire defrost cycle (usually 20–30 minutes) to remind you that the heaters are running.
Button Combinations by Model Type
Since Samsung control panels vary, try these common combinations:
- Type A (Most French Door models):
Freezer+Lighting - Type B (Models with Energy Saver):
Energy Saver+Fridge - Type C (Family Hub/Touchscreens): Look for the “Cooling” or “Fridge Manager” app in settings, or use
Freezer+Fridgeon the physical door buttons. - Type D (Internal Controls):
Fridge+Freezer(orPower Cool+Power Freeze)
- How to stop it: To exit the mode early, repeat the button combination and tap through the menu until the screen returns to normal, or simply unplug the fridge for 30 seconds.
- Check the Drain: If you have heavy ice buildup, the defrost water might overflow if your drain tube is clogged. Keep a towel handy near the bottom back of the fridge.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the fridge in “Fd” mode for more than one cycle (usually 30 mins) at a time. If the ice is very thick, you may need to repeat the process, but allow the unit to rest between cycles to prevent the plastic internal panels from warping.
To exit the Forced Defrost mode you can simply unplug the power from the wall or wait 20 minutes till forced defrosting will be done.
Possible Cooling Problem Solution – DIY Heater
This DIY secondary heater may help to evenly distribute heat to defrost ice build-ups in the upper section of the evaporator coil and thus providing proper airflow and proper cooling temperature all the time.
If Freezer And Fridge Not Cooling At All
Compressor Inverter Board Failed
The compressor inverter board controls power to the compressor and adjusts its speed to regulate cooling. If the board fails, the compressor won’t receive power, and both the fridge and freezer will stop cooling completely. Troubleshooting the issue requires using a
Compressor Malfunctioned
If the compressor is getting power and maybe even humming, but not producing cold, this is one of the reasons when the compressor is lost efficiency or failed either mechanically or electrically.
Refrigerant Leak In The Sealed System
A sealed system is where the refrigerant circulating from the compressor to the evaporator coils and back. This system contains lots of copper or aluminum tubes.
When one of the tubes has developed a tiny hole, it will create a leak and the refrigerant in the system will escape and evaporates eventually.
Restricted Drier Filter
This problem is not new to the Samsung refrigerator. From my experience as a Appliance repair technician, I have seen this many times.
The drier filter serves to filter moisture, dirt from the compressor. When its clogged by any of these particles, it will restrict refrigerant flow in the system and thus compressor will not be able to push or pump refrigerant.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling Because of Ice Buildup — Key Points
- Ice buildup can block cold air circulation, causing the fridge to feel warm despite frost inside.
- A frozen evaporator fan can’t distribute cold air when ice traps the blades.
- Worn or damaged door seals let warm, moist air in, leading to excess frost.
- A failed defrost heater means frost isn’t melted during defrost cycles, so ice accumulates.
- In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board disrupts regular defrosting and airflow.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling After a Power Outage: Quick Troubleshooting Steps
- Fridge has power (lights/display on) but isn’t cooling properly
- Perform a full power reset (unplug or flip breaker for several minutes)
- Try a control panel reset (Power Freeze + Power Cool buttons)
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after power restoration
- Check if the compressor is running or clicking but not starting
- Inspect for surge damage to the main control board or inverter board
- Ensure vents and airflow inside the fridge and freezer aren’t blocked
- Confirm condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating normally
Fridge Not Cooling after you have moved it
If your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling after a move, it’s likely because the internal fluids haven’t had enough time to settle. To fix this, you should leave the unit unplugged and undisturbed in its new location for at least three hours to allow oils and lubricants to return to the compressor. Additionally, ensure the appliance is plugged into a functioning power source and allow a full 24 to 48 hours for it to reach its set temperature, keeping the doors closed as much as possible to speed up the process. If these steps don’t work, a simple 5-minute “power cycle” reset may clear any temporary electronic glitches caused by the relocation.
Control Board needs a Reset– Not Cooling
You can reset your refrigerator through power cycling when it’s not producing any cooling. Start by disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Then, leave it alone for at least 5 minutes to reset. It will reset the fridge’s control board/inverter board and get rid of any active errors. Then, reconnect the refrigerator and check that cooling is restored.
Quick Reset Checklist
- Step 1: Cut the Power – Completely disconnect the fridge from electricity. Unplug it from the wall, or if the plug is inaccessible, shut off the dedicated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
- Step 2: Wait 5 Minutes – Leave the unit unpowered for at least 5 minutes. This allows any residual electricity in the control board to dissipate, clearing the memory and any active error codes.
- Step 3: Restore Power – Plug the fridge back in or turn the breaker back on. The system will reboot from scratch.
- Step 4: Monitor the Display – Check for any flashing error codes. Put your hand near the vents to feel for airflow.
- Step 5: Be Patient – If the reset worked, it can still take a few hours for the fridge to return to your set temperature. Keep the doors closed during this time to retain cold air.
When to Use This Reset
- The fridge is running but not cooling.
- The display is showing error codes (it clears “ghost” codes so you can see if the problem persists).
- The fridge is acting up following a power outage or voltage surge.
Note: If the fridge still doesn’t cool after one reset, I don’t recommend repeating the process; at that point, it’s likely a mechanical failure (like a fan or compressor) that requires a technician.
Ghost Temperature Readings
A common issue in 2024-2025 models involves the control panel displaying the set temperature rather than the actual internal temperature.
- The Problem: The fridge may say it is 37°F, but the actual temperature inside has risen to 45°F or higher due to a cooling failure.
- The Cause: Often linked to faulty freon line fittings or a malfunctioning evaporator fan that runs intermittently.
- Tip: If you suspect a cooling issue, power cycle the fridge (unplug for 2 minutes). When it reboots, it will usually flash the real current temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is My Brand New Samsung Fridge Not Cooling?
One of the reasons is that your new fridge still in DEMO MODE. If you see on the display that says o FF or oF oF, that means your fridge still in the DEMO MODE.
In order to deactivate DEMO MODE, press and hold FREEZER and ALARM buttons until you hear a chime. If this combination of buttons will not work, try to press and hold FREEZER, ALARM, and FRIDGE buttons until you hear a chime.
If everything above is checked OK, that means you didn’t give the fridge enough time to cool.
If you have a new Samsung Family Hub Fridge and it still not cooling, you might need to activate Cooling Mode in the fridge settings.
How Long Does It Take For A New Samsung Fridge To Get Cold?
To get cold to a temperature of 0F for the freezer and 36F for the fridge compartments, a brand new Samsung Fridge requires at least 2-4 hours before you can put food in it.
Why Is my Fridge Not Cooling and Making Noise?
Most likely it caused by the ice build-up blocking or touching the evaporator fan blades, that’s why fan is making noise and may slow down air circulation. But If you open the fridge section door and this noise goes away, it is 100% related to the ice accumulation behind the TWIN COOLING panel.
Need some advise. I have a Samsung french door Model RS2555SL. No trouble until today. Freezer and Refrigerator are not cooling. Compressors do not seem to be coming on. Audible fan running is detected. Control panel showed -10F Freezer and 34F Fridge. I shut off the breaker, waited 1 minute, turned the breaker back on. Control panel now reads 41F Freezer and 55F Fridge. About every 3 minutes I hear a “click” like something is attempting to turn on. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot?
Check start relay on the compressor. If its clicks every 1-2 minutes, its trying to start compressor, but for some reason not able to. If it clicks only ONCE and then silent, its not start relay. Its some of the relays on the control board. But anyways, check start relay first and if its needed replace it
Thank you Eugene! Compressor relay part is on order. I’ll write back when install is complete.
Feedback – The compressor relay was replaced and the refrigerator is running. Refrigerator reached set temp of 36F without any issue. On the other hand, the freezer has issues. I noticed the evaporator fan was not coming on and decided to order a new one. The freezer is reading 77F on the controller; however, actual inside temp measures ~30F. Defrost Thermostat issue?
Don’t think so.. Have no idea what it could be..
Update. Controller still showing 77F. Freezer actual temp is continuing to fall, now at 25F. So freezer is working, but controller is to registering the correct temp.
Hi Eugene,
I have 10 year old Samsung RF268ABRS, French door refrigerator/freezer. The refrigerator fan is not working. There is no power going to the fan plug. I attached the fan to 12V car battery and it worked. Looking at main control boards and even though they are suppose to match, I find slight differences. Not sure if needs main control board but cannot think of anything else?
Originally, the freezer stopped cooling and the refrigerator worked fine. I shut the fridge down and it thawed. Turned it back on, freezer fine, but refrigerator stopped cooling properly. It was froze over on the coils. Thawed it down and fan not getting power at plug. All else seems fine but fridge fan.
You need to check power to the fan with the door closed. Did you check that? If not read article again, you will find information where to apply magnet to simulate closed door
Hello, I have Samsung Fridge/Freezer model RF30HBEDBSR. Power 115V/60 Hz. a few weeks ago the freezer stopped freezing. We replaced the entire unit and put this one in the garage. For several weeks the Fridge was still cooling, but gradually less cool. For a while we had a “E 40” flashing on LED panel. Then about a week ago the fridge stopped cooling, and the E stopped flashing. I’ve had it turned off for a couple of days at a time, but it never comes back to cooling. I’d like to try to fix it and buy needed parts, but want to make sure I get the right parts. How can I trouble shoot to identify the defective parts?
E40 error related with the ice maker fan in the freezer compartment. Maybe it just stopped spinning, who knows.. Not sure whats broken on your fridge, but try to defrost it for 2-3 days with the all doors open
hi, thanks for your amazingly informative blog. I just purchased a samsung RF220nctaww fridge from a nice family who had the fridge originally. When I started up the fridge the freezer works alright, but the fridge didn’t build up cold, the fan is running okay after I put the fridge in demo mode and back to normal as the manual directed. the fridge was unplugged for few hours during the transport and I am assuming that any ice build up should have been melted during the transport.
Any suggestions for this smaller model? are there any hecks and tricks that you could teach me please? I have no idea what other panel reset sequences are there, but I really suspect there must be a thermostat or temperature sensor are out of wack.
please help, thanks
Hi there,
I have a samsung srl322mw bottom loader fridge.
I also have the same issue where my freezer is working fine and my refrigerator isn’t cooling up.
I’ve tried defrosting and start up then it worked. However After about 3 weeks the same issue.
Please advise.
Try to change drain tubes behind the fridge. it will help with proper draining and will eliminate condensation problems
Hi, I have a Samsung French door freezer on bottom. We lost power and unit quit working. Tech put in new compressor as the old one was locked up. Unit still didn’t work so I changed the inverter board and everything seemed to be working but after a couple days of running the fridge,I can’t get the temp in the fridge below 37 and the freezer stays at about 20. Any ideas why it won’t cool beyond that?
If there is no cold in both compartments, then make sure compressor is running. If its running but still not cooling, its a compressor issue or sealed system
Hi. I have a RSH model Samsung that I just got second hand.
Everything turns on and I can see the temperature which is stuck at 18 Celsius. None of the fridge freezer power freeze buttons do anything.
Although the buttons do work to hard reset and turn child lock on and off. This means my appliance isn’t getting cold as it’s staying at 18 degrees.
Any ideas?
So, you can’t change the temperature by pressing the freezer or fridge temp buttons? never had this situation before in my appliance repair, but maybe it’s related with the user interface panel or board? What is the full model number?
I’m super hoping you get this: we had a random power outage; no storm. It caused our hot water heater AND refrigerator to go out. Called a repair man for the fridge. He said it needed a new switch board and was going to charge us a ridiculous amount of money. So we bought a new control panel and installed it. But nothing is happening. He was certain this was the problem. Any tips?? We know it can’t be the frost issue as it’s been 100 degree days and 80 in our home so there is no chance of frost anywhere after 3 days not working. HELP!
So, i didnt get it, after replacing control board nothing is working? No lights, no compressor running? I need more info to understand situation.
Hi Eugene, I recently moved. My Samsung Twin Cooling RB195ACBP fridge was in storage for 3 months and was working perfectly fine for 2 years before this. Previously in that time it had 2 problems, water would accumulate in my drawers and it would make a slight grinding noise when opening the fridge. When I finally turned it back on after the move. It seemed like it was working fine and my bottom freezer was super cold -2. Two weeks later, my top fridge stopped cooling completeIy. It goes from 40f to 55f now. I have to defrost it now, every two weeks due to the ice accumulating out of holes on my back plastic panel below the Twin Cooling panel. Yet, my freezer still gets cold. What exactly could be wrong? I havent been able to check in the back for the coils or the fan. But, I am asuming it is the fan. It would go from getting cold, keeping temp after it was defrosted/unplugged to getting frozen and not getting warm in the fridge every two weeks. Or should all three parts you mentioned be replaced?
Check drain tubes behind the fridge and if it’s needed replace them with a new ones
Have a Samsung RF18 side by side. Fridge and freezer not cooling. No ice behind the twin cooling cover. Used magnet to test if fans cuts on when door is closed and it does. Held Power Freeze and Power Chill buttons to test diagnostics and it flashes 88 88 then nothing lights up at all. Any advice?
If both freezer and fridge not cooling, check compressor to make sure it’s running. If it’s running and not producing cold, then its a major problem with your fridge, related either with a compressor or sealed system
I have a Samsung model RFG298AABP. The whole fridge does not have power. I have tested the power outlet and it is working fine but the fridge just randomly stopped working. I had breakfast and took a few things out, and put them back in, and right as I put away the last bit of food, the light went out. I thought that I needed to fix the light but then I realized the whole fridge is without power.
Seems like control board malfunctioned. Part# DA41-00620B. Its actually discontinued
Yes, but I had just attributed it to the ice on the back melting slowly as the temp rose.
I’m having a similar problem, refrigerator was warm but freezer and middle drawer were cooling fine. Found the fan was frozen and defrosted it. Worked great for 2 days, now it freezes up and I have to take it apart to defrost every 2 days. Another strange component is that the thermostat on the outside of the fridge reads 34 even when the temp inside is obviously close to 50. Is there any chance they two pieces point to a specific faulty component I can replace? The model number is RF28HMEDBSR.
Did you have water under the bottom drawer in the fridge compartment?
Yes, usually. We attributed it to the ice on the back wall slowly melting.
Check drain tubes behind the fridge to make sure they are clean, if not replace with a new ones
On the back of the fridge there is the water inlet hose for the ice maker, then an blue & gray tube coming from the center back of the fridge that go up to the right top corner. We took the black cover off where the hoses go into the center of the fridge and the hoses are all covered in what looks like a soft expanding insulation. In order to remove them and check the inside we would need to break the insulation. Are these the lines you are referring to?
I am referring to the gray drain tubes about 1 inch in diameter.
I also have a Samsung French door fridge:
Replaced all 3 sensors in/ around the Twin Cooling cover after having ice buildup as most of these seem to do. Cleaned drain and added the aluminum heating element extender down into the drain tube. Fan runs fine as best I can tell and turns on when I use the magnet trick to make it think the doors are closed.
Freezer temp matches display but fridge is 50* when display is set to 34*. Tested multiple areas inside fridge space. No ice on evaporator after sensor replacement.
What am I missing or what else should I try?
Thank you!
Don’t know how to help you Eric, as long as you did everything suggested in the article
Hello
Mine is samsung RF28HMEDBSR french door one. Noticed that fridge is not cool enough even though the panel says 2 degrees celsius. I have checked the milk and it was 15 degrees celcius. It had ice build up, I could see ice from both holes on twin cooling panel. I have unplugged the fridge for 9 hours then plugged back. Now it won’t cool the fridge part, the freezer is working fine. The temperature on panel is 14 degrees after 10 hrs of power on. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
If you just want to temporarily fix it, then turn the fridge off for at least 24 hours with the doors open and let it thaw. After that, temp should back to normal. In order to TRY to fix it permanently then it requires changing drain tubes or changing back panel (Twin Cooling) or changing defrost sensor. Unfortunately, there is no one solution for everyone.
I have a Samsung RF263BEAESR about 6-7 years old. Icemaker is frozen over, ice build up in the fridge on the back, water leaking into all of the veggie, and deli drawers, and temp is about 10-15 degrees higher (tested water that was in a pitcher) than the display.
try to change drain tubes behind the fridge, seems like drain line is clogged
I have an RFG237AARS and the freezer has started intermittently being warmer than it should be. I verified the door seal is good, no ice buildup on either fridge or freezer evap. Both fans in freezer work. Verified ohm reading on freezer ceiling mounted thermostat. It will freeze properly in FF3 mode. No codes on the inverter board or front panel. I initially thought the defrost heater was getting stuck on but I removed the power to it and the freezer still fluctuates from 10-30°F with it set on -8. Could this be a start relay issue? Fridge appears to be working just fine.
We have Samsung side-by-side RS2534WW. The freezer side works perfectly. We have Fridge temperature set at 36 F. The LED display for the fridge keeps fluctuating temperature readings between 42 and 59. A thermometer inside the Fridge displays between 41 and 48. The drain tubes on the back are completely clean – no blockage.
Hi
I have a Samsung refrigerator model RB1855SL. I programmed it at 3 degres but is keep swinging between 9 and 3 degres all the time, keeping all my food at a mild temperature. What do you think is the cause of this ?
Thank you
I have a French door fridge with the middle drawer. Lately a lot of water and some ice has been building up in the lefthand holes of the twin cooling panel. It then started making a very loud noise when the fan was running. It did shut off when I opened the door. Also the middle drawer which is set for 1c is freezing the cans of pop at the back. Last night my husband unplugged the fridge out of frustration overnight. Now nothing is cooling and the fan isn’t starting up again…very quiet. Also a lot of water collects under the middle drawer and freezes…not sure if this issue is related to the noise and fan. Any help here would be grateful.
Hi Tricia, you need to completely defrost fridge and change drain tubes, which is located behind the fridge. Seems like drain line not properly draining.
Thanks, Eugene. Is the part called a Drain Cap Assembly?
This one