Few things are as stressful as discovering your Samsung refrigerator has stopped cooling, especially when you’re worried about food spoilage. Samsung units are widely known for their advanced Twin Cooling Plus technology, but they are equally notorious for specific failures—ranging from simple ice buildup on the evaporator fan to more complex compressor inverter board issues. Whether your freezer is still working but the fridge is warm, or the entire unit has shut down completely, identifying the root cause is the first step toward a fix. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the most common reasons your Samsung fridge isn’t cooling and provide step-by-step DIY solutions to get your kitchen back in order.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
The most common reason a Samsung fridge stops cooling is ice or frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which restricts air circulation. This is often caused by a faulty defrost heater, a clogged drain line, or a failed defrost sensor.
Quick Fix Checklist:
- Activate Forced Defrost (Fd): Press and hold the Freezer and Lighting (or Energy Saver/Fridge) buttons for 8 seconds until you hear a chime, then toggle to “Fd” on the display. See below for more model specifics.
- Check for Blockages: Ensure air vents inside the fresh food compartment aren’t blocked by oversized items.
- Inspect the Fan: If you hear a grinding noise that stops when you open the door, ice is likely hitting the evaporator fan blades.
- Verify Demo Mode: If the display shows “OF OF” or “O FF,” the fridge is in Demo Mode. Hold Freezer and Alarm to deactivate.
If Not Cooling Properly, But Freezer Works.
The evaporator coils are frosted over:
When the evaporator coils get covered with frost, the evaporator fan is unable to circulate cold air within the fridge due to blockage, and the fridge will not cool. This problem is related to failed defrost cycle. Sometimes, the problem can be solved by replacing the defrost temperature sensor (but it does not always fix the problem)
There are actually 2 identical temperature sensors. But you will need one with the white connector on the right side of the fridge.
If you see ice build-up on the back wall in the vent holes, where it says “Twin Cooling” of your fridge or maybe you hear noise coming from the fridge, but when you open the door noise is just gone? That means you have an issue with condensation which accumulates behind that panel and eventually becomes frost or even ice chunks.
In case there is an issue with proper drainage (drain is fully or partially clogged) during Defrost Cycle, you will have standing water at the bottom.
Standing water evaporates and condensates at the top section of the Twin Cooling Panel, causing the evaporator fan to ice up.
This problem also refers to, when you have water in or under the crisper drawers and your Samsung fridge starts to leak because the drain line is clogged and water is overflowing.
In this case, you need Drain Repair Kit below, and here is the video of what you need to fix these issues permanently.
Evaporator fan frosted over:
If your Samsung fridge is not cooling, one common cause is that your evaporator fan is blocked by ice. You need to check your evaporator fan to make sure it’s working or not.
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If you have a french-door refrigerator, close the left door and put an ordinary magnet on the right side of the fridge to simulate the right door closing.
After a couple of seconds, the evaporator fan should start spinning. If you don’t hear the fan running, most likely fan blades are blocked by ice, or the fan is burnt. You can defrost the fan through forced defrost, or replace it with a new evaporator fan. Read the article below for details on ice on the evaporator fan. New fans can be purchased on Amazon for $15-20, depending upon model number click here.
Related Read: Troubleshooting All Samsung Refrigerator Noises
Defective or Weak Defrost heater :
Under normal circumstances, the defrost heater assembly (you can get one here) is responsible for defrosting any frost that has been formed on the evaporator coils in the refrigerator, whose function is to allow cold air to freely flow thereby leading to the freezer cooling.
However, when the defrost heater assembly is not functioning accordingly, excess frost will build upon the evaporator coils, as a result, the airflow will be restricted, which will result in the fridge not cooling.
Note: We may receive a small commission from your purchase, at no additional cost to you. Double check model numbers before ordering.
A defective thermistor or temperature sensor:
When working properly this component keeps in check the temperature of the refrigerator and transmits the information on the temperature reading to the control board so that appropriate power can be supplied to the evaporator fan as well as the compressor for effective cooling in return.
But when the thermistor is defective both the compressor and the evaporator fan may not work properly. Get a replacement here: Amazon.
Defrost thermostat failure:
This component allows the power to flow to the heater. When it fails, power will not flow and the heater will not be able to heat up and melt ice or frost which may build up on the evaporator coils. Amazon has replacements for most models.
How To Activate Forced Defrost Mode?
To activate the Forced Defrost (Fd) mode on most Samsung refrigerators, you need to use a specific button combination on the control panel. This is the most effective way to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coils without unplugging the unit for 24 hours. The “Fd” mode forces the defrost heater to turn on. It will melt ice around the coils and the evaporator fan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Locate your buttons: Find the two buttons required for your specific model (see the combinations below).
- Enter Service Mode: Press and hold both buttons simultaneously for 8 to 12 seconds. The display will go blank or start flashing.
- Cycle to “Fd”: Once the screen begins flashing, tap any other button (usually the Fridge or Lighting button) repeatedly until the letters “Fd” appear on the display.
- Listen for the Beep: Once “Fd” is selected, the fridge will begin to beep. This beep will continue throughout the entire defrost cycle (usually 20–30 minutes) to remind you that the heaters are running.
Button Combinations by Model Type
Since Samsung control panels vary, try these common combinations:
- Type A (Most French Door models):
Freezer+Lighting - Type B (Models with Energy Saver):
Energy Saver+Fridge - Type C (Family Hub/Touchscreens): Look for the “Cooling” or “Fridge Manager” app in settings, or use
Freezer+Fridgeon the physical door buttons. - Type D (Internal Controls):
Fridge+Freezer(orPower Cool+Power Freeze)
- How to stop it: To exit the mode early, repeat the button combination and tap through the menu until the screen returns to normal, or simply unplug the fridge for 30 seconds.
- Check the Drain: If you have heavy ice buildup, the defrost water might overflow if your drain tube is clogged. Keep a towel handy near the bottom back of the fridge.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the fridge in “Fd” mode for more than one cycle (usually 30 mins) at a time. If the ice is very thick, you may need to repeat the process, but allow the unit to rest between cycles to prevent the plastic internal panels from warping.
To exit the Forced Defrost mode you can simply unplug the power from the wall or wait 20 minutes till forced defrosting will be done.
Possible Cooling Problem Solution – DIY Heater
This DIY secondary heater may help to evenly distribute heat to defrost ice build-ups in the upper section of the evaporator coil and thus providing proper airflow and proper cooling temperature all the time.
If Freezer And Fridge Not Cooling At All
Compressor Inverter Board Failed
The compressor inverter board controls power to the compressor and adjusts its speed to regulate cooling. If the board fails, the compressor won’t receive power, and both the fridge and freezer will stop cooling completely. Troubleshooting the issue requires using a
Compressor Malfunctioned
If the compressor is getting power and maybe even humming, but not producing cold, this is one of the reasons when the compressor is lost efficiency or failed either mechanically or electrically.
Refrigerant Leak In The Sealed System
A sealed system is where the refrigerant circulating from the compressor to the evaporator coils and back. This system contains lots of copper or aluminum tubes.
When one of the tubes has developed a tiny hole, it will create a leak and the refrigerant in the system will escape and evaporates eventually.
Restricted Drier Filter
This problem is not new to the Samsung refrigerator. From my experience as a Appliance repair technician, I have seen this many times.
The drier filter serves to filter moisture, dirt from the compressor. When its clogged by any of these particles, it will restrict refrigerant flow in the system and thus compressor will not be able to push or pump refrigerant.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling Because of Ice Buildup — Key Points
- Ice buildup can block cold air circulation, causing the fridge to feel warm despite frost inside.
- A frozen evaporator fan can’t distribute cold air when ice traps the blades.
- Worn or damaged door seals let warm, moist air in, leading to excess frost.
- A failed defrost heater means frost isn’t melted during defrost cycles, so ice accumulates.
- In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board disrupts regular defrosting and airflow.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling After a Power Outage: Quick Troubleshooting Steps
- Fridge has power (lights/display on) but isn’t cooling properly
- Perform a full power reset (unplug or flip breaker for several minutes)
- Try a control panel reset (Power Freeze + Power Cool buttons)
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after power restoration
- Check if the compressor is running or clicking but not starting
- Inspect for surge damage to the main control board or inverter board
- Ensure vents and airflow inside the fridge and freezer aren’t blocked
- Confirm condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating normally
Fridge Not Cooling after you have moved it
If your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling after a move, it’s likely because the internal fluids haven’t had enough time to settle. To fix this, you should leave the unit unplugged and undisturbed in its new location for at least three hours to allow oils and lubricants to return to the compressor. Additionally, ensure the appliance is plugged into a functioning power source and allow a full 24 to 48 hours for it to reach its set temperature, keeping the doors closed as much as possible to speed up the process. If these steps don’t work, a simple 5-minute “power cycle” reset may clear any temporary electronic glitches caused by the relocation.
Control Board needs a Reset– Not Cooling
You can reset your refrigerator through power cycling when it’s not producing any cooling. Start by disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Then, leave it alone for at least 5 minutes to reset. It will reset the fridge’s control board/inverter board and get rid of any active errors. Then, reconnect the refrigerator and check that cooling is restored.
Quick Reset Checklist
- Step 1: Cut the Power – Completely disconnect the fridge from electricity. Unplug it from the wall, or if the plug is inaccessible, shut off the dedicated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
- Step 2: Wait 5 Minutes – Leave the unit unpowered for at least 5 minutes. This allows any residual electricity in the control board to dissipate, clearing the memory and any active error codes.
- Step 3: Restore Power – Plug the fridge back in or turn the breaker back on. The system will reboot from scratch.
- Step 4: Monitor the Display – Check for any flashing error codes. Put your hand near the vents to feel for airflow.
- Step 5: Be Patient – If the reset worked, it can still take a few hours for the fridge to return to your set temperature. Keep the doors closed during this time to retain cold air.
When to Use This Reset
- The fridge is running but not cooling.
- The display is showing error codes (it clears “ghost” codes so you can see if the problem persists).
- The fridge is acting up following a power outage or voltage surge.
Note: If the fridge still doesn’t cool after one reset, I don’t recommend repeating the process; at that point, it’s likely a mechanical failure (like a fan or compressor) that requires a technician.
Ghost Temperature Readings
A common issue in 2024-2025 models involves the control panel displaying the set temperature rather than the actual internal temperature.
- The Problem: The fridge may say it is 37°F, but the actual temperature inside has risen to 45°F or higher due to a cooling failure.
- The Cause: Often linked to faulty freon line fittings or a malfunctioning evaporator fan that runs intermittently.
- Tip: If you suspect a cooling issue, power cycle the fridge (unplug for 2 minutes). When it reboots, it will usually flash the real current temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is My Brand New Samsung Fridge Not Cooling?
One of the reasons is that your new fridge still in DEMO MODE. If you see on the display that says o FF or oF oF, that means your fridge still in the DEMO MODE.
In order to deactivate DEMO MODE, press and hold FREEZER and ALARM buttons until you hear a chime. If this combination of buttons will not work, try to press and hold FREEZER, ALARM, and FRIDGE buttons until you hear a chime.
If everything above is checked OK, that means you didn’t give the fridge enough time to cool.
If you have a new Samsung Family Hub Fridge and it still not cooling, you might need to activate Cooling Mode in the fridge settings.
How Long Does It Take For A New Samsung Fridge To Get Cold?
To get cold to a temperature of 0F for the freezer and 36F for the fridge compartments, a brand new Samsung Fridge requires at least 2-4 hours before you can put food in it.
Why Is my Fridge Not Cooling and Making Noise?
Most likely it caused by the ice build-up blocking or touching the evaporator fan blades, that’s why fan is making noise and may slow down air circulation. But If you open the fridge section door and this noise goes away, it is 100% related to the ice accumulation behind the TWIN COOLING panel.
Hi. We have a RS62R50011L samsung ref, and it’s not cooling so we tried plugging it out and plugging back in. Then the error C1 and C21 is alternating and it’s still not cooling. Planning to force defrost but no matter how many times I hold the Fridge and Freezer’s buttons, it’s not doing anything. Can you give me some things to try?
its not cooling in both freezer and fridge compartment? Or only fridge?
Hi Eugene
I have a Samsung rsa1wtmh fridge freezer that’s 7 plus years old. Both the freezer and fridge are not cooling. I’ve cleaned the back of the compressor and cooling unit. Electrics are working and display is working fine too. The door sensors are working fine too, the fan stops when the doors open and the door alarms work too.
Does the compressor is running? If not, then check the connection from the compressor to the inverter board (behind the fridge). But if compressor is running, but not cooling, most likely there is a restriction in the sealed system or the compressor lost efficiency.
Oct 24,2020
Brand Samsung Model RFG297AARS
NO cooling in REFRIG or FREEZER
Unit is in great location plenty of air circulation, Refrig has been in same location for 5 years. UNIT WORKED PERFECTLY TILL OCTOBER 21st.
Refrig temp 50 degrees F Freezer temp 40 degrees F.
Fan is running, No ice build up detected or evident , No water bottom of freezer, Constant red light on at inverter board not flashing ,
Did not see any sensors to check, Gray Drain tubes must be behind bottom back grill. Mysteriously 1st thing in the Morning the OF code appeared on the digital display. Un-plugged unit for 24 hours then plugged it in , No Codes but does not COOL . any Suggestions??
Does the compressor is running? Can you hear it? if not, then turn the power off or unplug it, remove back panel on the left side where control board is. Reconnect connectors connected to the inverter board (bottom one) or even clean them with contact cleaner and connect them back. I’ve seen this issue before and after reconnecting, compressor kicked ON right away. Regarding OF, means fridge in DEMO mode. Push freezer and fridge buttons at the same time, to exit DEMO mode and turn fridge ON
Hello. I have a Samsung RF18HFENBSR. The freezer compartment works fine but the fridge part does not cool sufficiently. I took out the back panel cover and observed ice build up on the coils and down where it drains. I defrosted the fridge completely for 24 hours but after a couple of weeks the problem came back. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Check defrost heater and thermal fuse for continuity. If some of them burnt out, you will have similar symptoms as yours
I have a Samsung RF260BE260BEAESG/A.A.
The fridge is no longer cooling and is quiet. Freezer is working fine. I don’t hear the compressor or fan. Where is the cooling fan located? Where can I buy parts?
Hi Steve, Everything explained in the post. Evaporator fan located behind the panel where it says Twin Cooling
Hi, my RF263 fridge/freezer isn’t working well. The freezer on the bottom is working fine but the top french door fridge isn’t cooling off enough. We set it to 41 but it’s at about 52. I don’t know what to do to try a simple fix or what would have to be done if it was a major fix. I’m not exactly a “handyman” so try to be as basic as possible.
Paul
Paul, I explained everything that I know about this particular repair in the post above, hope you will find it useful
Eugene thanks for answering all these questions, that’s a lot of effort and should be commended.
My temperature was blinking and I unplugged and wouldn’t go down. So I removed the twin cooling system panel and ice froze the fan and top right part of the inside. I thawed and got the ice off. I then tried to move the fan manually and it felt stuck and wouldn’t turn freely. I did some adjustments to the part to get it to move freely like putting the screw back on the container of the fan but not clicking it back in place as if there was an issue with the placement of the electronic fan part inside the protective part. I turned on and let sit and opened fridge a little later and it was working. I put panel back on. The temperature is going down but slowly on power cool. I just can’t get it in the thirties. Do you think it’s the fan? What caused that ice build up? I put in new grommet a while back to heat bottom part inside panel which was recommended.
Did you change grey drain tubes, which is behind the fridge? this is where it got clogged and you will have standing water behind “Twin Cooling” panel
I have a samsung French door fridge model RF268ABRS that quit cooling, after two days it started cooling again for two days then stopped cologne again .This goes on every 3 or 4 days cooling and not cooling the compressor and compressor fan motor seem to run fine .No ice build up on evap coils .Any suggestions?
No ice on evaporator coils? Did you remove panel to check that or you just guessed that there no ice?
I have the samsung french door fridge model RF28HFEDBSR and just recently moved it. During the move it was unplugged for 2 days and now I’ve got it plugged back in and it no longer is cooling the inside of the fridge. Any idea what the problem may be??
I would check compressor to see if its running or not. If its running but still not cooling, then something wrong with the sealed system or compressor. If its not running, check start relay or at least you have to have multimeter to see if start relay getting power.
This might be a very silly question, but how do I get to the drain lines to replace them? Do I take off the small black box where the water lines go into? Or how does that replacement work? I was able to defrost overnight and see that the ice was built up in the drain area so I’m assuming that’s the cause for my issues (fridge not getting to temp) but I don’t know how to get to the drain part to change it out.
https://youtu.be/WBgbkyMne64
My Side by Side Twin cooling model has the same issue..Freezer works. Fridge evaporator coil icing up and fan not running. So not cooling the way it supposed to.
I replaced the following:
Evaporator Fan, Defrost heater, thermistor, control board. Replaced the metal plate under the defrost coil. Still fan not running. Icing up continues. Tired of it. Unplugged the fan wire and checked for power. No power to the socket from control board even after replacing the board. Why it is? Do fan works only when the thermistor sends signal to board? Is that the reason for not cooling? Anyone has any idea?
Fan only works when you close the door. You need to use magnet to simulate closed door. Did you replace grey drain tubes behind the fridge? Its one of the problem
Hi Eugene,
My refrigerator model number Samsung RFG237AARS stopped cooling all together. Both compartments (refrigerator and freezer) are warm. I already checked the condenser + fan both are running.
Also removed the inside panel and checked the evaporator fan by tricking the refrigerator with the magnets, comes on after 15-30 sec. Attempted to run self-diagnostic by holding Energy Saver+Lighting buttons. The LCD display resets and shows 88 88, then goes back to normal mode. Don’t see any error codes to help me troubleshoot the cause. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Check compressor and compressor start relay. If compressor is not working and temp of the compressor as a room temp, then check start relay. If relay clicking but not start compressor, replace relay
Mine is a Twin cooling side by side model. I replaced fan, defrost heater assembly, thermistor and main control board. Still icing up the coils. Fan still not running no power coming to fan. I unplugged the cable to fan and checked the power in socket. No power there even after I replaced the system board. I don’t know if it get power only if the sensor sends the signal to board. Freezer compartment works perfectly. Please suggest the next troubleshooting method.
Fan will not work if door is open. Use magnet to simulate closed door. Also check grey drain tubes behind the fridge, they should be clean
Hi Eugene,
My Samsung RF28HMEDBSR hasn’t had any issues for the past 5 years until now. We have to thaw the ice around the Evaporator Fan every month for the last three months. The fridge part stop working as soon as the Evaporator Fan is packed with ice. So my question is what cause it? And how to stop it?
Thanks!
I think you read an article above. It says: condensation is the issue #1 , due to clogged drain line
Thanks.
In case of 1 above, I guess you toss the refrigerator?
In case of 2 above, there is a main control board and a power module board. Which do you think it is? (The power module doesn’t seem to be in production anymore).
Main Control Board, where temp sensors connected to
I have a Samsung RF267AA refrigerator and the freezer is not reaching the desired temperature. I have checked and no ice buildup on the coils. The panel says -2 (or whatever it is set for) but the actual temperature is much warmer. I have replaced both temp sensors in the freezer section and the bimetal defrost sensor. Still doesn’t work.
What I have noticed is that if I unplug the refrigerator and plug back in, it will show the correct (warm) temperature and will start cooling. But after a while, it will show -2 again even though the actual temperature is much warmer.
Ideas?
Hard to say what exactly happened with you fridge. AS long as the fridge doesn’t have ice build-up, then it can be: 1. leak in the sealed system or compressor lost efficiency 2. Faulty control board
I have Samsung fridge RB194ACRS. Ice build up. Changed Defrost heater a week ago but after a week having same problem.
Check grey drain tubes behind the fridge, if they are clogged, replace them
ihave a rsa1wtm samsung fridge freezer freezer stops .but shows_ 20 fridge then stops but shows 4 check for ice evapoator fan.reboot turning off then pressing freezer +power freezer button .chills to_3 stops fridge staying cold at 4 calls engineer he checks compressor + fan +coils cleans everything all working. goes saying give it time back to _3 and stops advice from engineer crcuit board failure to expensive to fix 10 year old model. reading your posts could you advise. could it be cheaper fix i.e. thermistor . no fault codes showing yours with thanks ged
Gerard, i am sorry.. i didn’t get it what you were asking
. i was trying to say ihad checked all the common faults. i.e ice build up, evapotator fan,compresser. ect. but the freezer was still faulty. reaching minus 3 , then cuting out . my engineer advised it could be the circuit board without actualy checking the circuit board, advising to fix a 10 year old appliance was to expensive a repair.after reading your post i wondered if it could be a cheaper fix.the thermistor. there are no fault codes showing . sorry for being long winded , i am new to the wonders of the internet yours with thanks gerard.
-3 Fahrenheit or -3 Celsius in the freezer?
eugene – 3celsius in freezer. gerard,
This is high temp, needs to be at least -18C
I have a Samsung RF26VABBP. Fridge was not cooling and was not making ice. Noticed I had ice build up behind twin cooling panel. Defrosted and fridge seems like it is cooling much better but still not making ice. It is getting water to ice maker just not getting cold enough to make ice. Any ideas?
Thank you
Seems like you just need to defrosted again. Let it sit for at least 24 hours with the doors open. Don’t forget to remove ice maker bucket !!!
I have read just about every question and reply here. I have a rf28hdedbsr/AA with the refrigerator not wanting to cool. A good handyman myself but cannot figure out how to remove the twin cooling panel without breaking it. I stripped everything out shelf wise, popped the tabs, removed the central shelf screw but the deli drawer top appears fixed. Cleaned the tubes ,dusted the fins, put it all back together after a 6 hours defrost still not cooling. Did a forced defrost and now just waiting to see progress. How about a video on removing the twin cooling panel. Any suggestions.
Do not remove panel if its iced behind. You will break styrofoam. Turn power off and let it sit for at least 24 hours with the door open. And then after that, try to remove it