Few things are as stressful as discovering your Samsung refrigerator has stopped cooling, especially when you’re worried about food spoilage. Samsung units are widely known for their advanced Twin Cooling Plus technology, but they are equally notorious for specific failures—ranging from simple ice buildup on the evaporator fan to more complex compressor inverter board issues. Whether your freezer is still working but the fridge is warm, or the entire unit has shut down completely, identifying the root cause is the first step toward a fix. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the most common reasons your Samsung fridge isn’t cooling and provide step-by-step DIY solutions to get your kitchen back in order.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
The most common reason a Samsung fridge stops cooling is ice or frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which restricts air circulation. This is often caused by a faulty defrost heater, a clogged drain line, or a failed defrost sensor.
Quick Fix Checklist:
- Activate Forced Defrost (Fd): Press and hold the Freezer and Lighting (or Energy Saver/Fridge) buttons for 8 seconds until you hear a chime, then toggle to “Fd” on the display. See below for more model specifics.
- Check for Blockages: Ensure air vents inside the fresh food compartment aren’t blocked by oversized items.
- Inspect the Fan: If you hear a grinding noise that stops when you open the door, ice is likely hitting the evaporator fan blades.
- Verify Demo Mode: If the display shows “OF OF” or “O FF,” the fridge is in Demo Mode. Hold Freezer and Alarm to deactivate.
If Not Cooling Properly, But Freezer Works.
The evaporator coils are frosted over:
When the evaporator coils get covered with frost, the evaporator fan is unable to circulate cold air within the fridge due to blockage, and the fridge will not cool. This problem is related to failed defrost cycle. Sometimes, the problem can be solved by replacing the defrost temperature sensor (but it does not always fix the problem)
There are actually 2 identical temperature sensors. But you will need one with the white connector on the right side of the fridge.
If you see ice build-up on the back wall in the vent holes, where it says “Twin Cooling” of your fridge or maybe you hear noise coming from the fridge, but when you open the door noise is just gone? That means you have an issue with condensation which accumulates behind that panel and eventually becomes frost or even ice chunks.
In case there is an issue with proper drainage (drain is fully or partially clogged) during Defrost Cycle, you will have standing water at the bottom.
Standing water evaporates and condensates at the top section of the Twin Cooling Panel, causing the evaporator fan to ice up.
This problem also refers to, when you have water in or under the crisper drawers and your Samsung fridge starts to leak because the drain line is clogged and water is overflowing.
In this case, you need Drain Repair Kit below, and here is the video of what you need to fix these issues permanently.
Evaporator fan frosted over:
If your Samsung fridge is not cooling, one common cause is that your evaporator fan is blocked by ice. You need to check your evaporator fan to make sure it’s working or not.
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If you have a french-door refrigerator, close the left door and put an ordinary magnet on the right side of the fridge to simulate the right door closing.
After a couple of seconds, the evaporator fan should start spinning. If you don’t hear the fan running, most likely fan blades are blocked by ice, or the fan is burnt. You can defrost the fan through forced defrost, or replace it with a new evaporator fan. Read the article below for details on ice on the evaporator fan. New fans can be purchased on Amazon for $15-20, depending upon model number click here.
Related Read: Troubleshooting All Samsung Refrigerator Noises
Defective or Weak Defrost heater :
Under normal circumstances, the defrost heater assembly (you can get one here) is responsible for defrosting any frost that has been formed on the evaporator coils in the refrigerator, whose function is to allow cold air to freely flow thereby leading to the freezer cooling.
However, when the defrost heater assembly is not functioning accordingly, excess frost will build upon the evaporator coils, as a result, the airflow will be restricted, which will result in the fridge not cooling.
Note: We may receive a small commission from your purchase, at no additional cost to you. Double check model numbers before ordering.
A defective thermistor or temperature sensor:
When working properly this component keeps in check the temperature of the refrigerator and transmits the information on the temperature reading to the control board so that appropriate power can be supplied to the evaporator fan as well as the compressor for effective cooling in return.
But when the thermistor is defective both the compressor and the evaporator fan may not work properly. Get a replacement here: Amazon.
Defrost thermostat failure:
This component allows the power to flow to the heater. When it fails, power will not flow and the heater will not be able to heat up and melt ice or frost which may build up on the evaporator coils. Amazon has replacements for most models.
How To Activate Forced Defrost Mode?
To activate the Forced Defrost (Fd) mode on most Samsung refrigerators, you need to use a specific button combination on the control panel. This is the most effective way to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coils without unplugging the unit for 24 hours. The “Fd” mode forces the defrost heater to turn on. It will melt ice around the coils and the evaporator fan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Locate your buttons: Find the two buttons required for your specific model (see the combinations below).
- Enter Service Mode: Press and hold both buttons simultaneously for 8 to 12 seconds. The display will go blank or start flashing.
- Cycle to “Fd”: Once the screen begins flashing, tap any other button (usually the Fridge or Lighting button) repeatedly until the letters “Fd” appear on the display.
- Listen for the Beep: Once “Fd” is selected, the fridge will begin to beep. This beep will continue throughout the entire defrost cycle (usually 20–30 minutes) to remind you that the heaters are running.
Button Combinations by Model Type
Since Samsung control panels vary, try these common combinations:
- Type A (Most French Door models):
Freezer+Lighting - Type B (Models with Energy Saver):
Energy Saver+Fridge - Type C (Family Hub/Touchscreens): Look for the “Cooling” or “Fridge Manager” app in settings, or use
Freezer+Fridgeon the physical door buttons. - Type D (Internal Controls):
Fridge+Freezer(orPower Cool+Power Freeze)
- How to stop it: To exit the mode early, repeat the button combination and tap through the menu until the screen returns to normal, or simply unplug the fridge for 30 seconds.
- Check the Drain: If you have heavy ice buildup, the defrost water might overflow if your drain tube is clogged. Keep a towel handy near the bottom back of the fridge.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the fridge in “Fd” mode for more than one cycle (usually 30 mins) at a time. If the ice is very thick, you may need to repeat the process, but allow the unit to rest between cycles to prevent the plastic internal panels from warping.
To exit the Forced Defrost mode you can simply unplug the power from the wall or wait 20 minutes till forced defrosting will be done.
Possible Cooling Problem Solution – DIY Heater
This DIY secondary heater may help to evenly distribute heat to defrost ice build-ups in the upper section of the evaporator coil and thus providing proper airflow and proper cooling temperature all the time.
If Freezer And Fridge Not Cooling At All
Compressor Inverter Board Failed
The compressor inverter board controls power to the compressor and adjusts its speed to regulate cooling. If the board fails, the compressor won’t receive power, and both the fridge and freezer will stop cooling completely. Troubleshooting the issue requires using a
Compressor Malfunctioned
If the compressor is getting power and maybe even humming, but not producing cold, this is one of the reasons when the compressor is lost efficiency or failed either mechanically or electrically.
Refrigerant Leak In The Sealed System
A sealed system is where the refrigerant circulating from the compressor to the evaporator coils and back. This system contains lots of copper or aluminum tubes.
When one of the tubes has developed a tiny hole, it will create a leak and the refrigerant in the system will escape and evaporates eventually.
Restricted Drier Filter
This problem is not new to the Samsung refrigerator. From my experience as a Appliance repair technician, I have seen this many times.
The drier filter serves to filter moisture, dirt from the compressor. When its clogged by any of these particles, it will restrict refrigerant flow in the system and thus compressor will not be able to push or pump refrigerant.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling Because of Ice Buildup — Key Points
- Ice buildup can block cold air circulation, causing the fridge to feel warm despite frost inside.
- A frozen evaporator fan can’t distribute cold air when ice traps the blades.
- Worn or damaged door seals let warm, moist air in, leading to excess frost.
- A failed defrost heater means frost isn’t melted during defrost cycles, so ice accumulates.
- In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board disrupts regular defrosting and airflow.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling After a Power Outage: Quick Troubleshooting Steps
- Fridge has power (lights/display on) but isn’t cooling properly
- Perform a full power reset (unplug or flip breaker for several minutes)
- Try a control panel reset (Power Freeze + Power Cool buttons)
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after power restoration
- Check if the compressor is running or clicking but not starting
- Inspect for surge damage to the main control board or inverter board
- Ensure vents and airflow inside the fridge and freezer aren’t blocked
- Confirm condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating normally
Fridge Not Cooling after you have moved it
If your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling after a move, it’s likely because the internal fluids haven’t had enough time to settle. To fix this, you should leave the unit unplugged and undisturbed in its new location for at least three hours to allow oils and lubricants to return to the compressor. Additionally, ensure the appliance is plugged into a functioning power source and allow a full 24 to 48 hours for it to reach its set temperature, keeping the doors closed as much as possible to speed up the process. If these steps don’t work, a simple 5-minute “power cycle” reset may clear any temporary electronic glitches caused by the relocation.
Control Board needs a Reset– Not Cooling
You can reset your refrigerator through power cycling when it’s not producing any cooling. Start by disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Then, leave it alone for at least 5 minutes to reset. It will reset the fridge’s control board/inverter board and get rid of any active errors. Then, reconnect the refrigerator and check that cooling is restored.
Quick Reset Checklist
- Step 1: Cut the Power – Completely disconnect the fridge from electricity. Unplug it from the wall, or if the plug is inaccessible, shut off the dedicated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
- Step 2: Wait 5 Minutes – Leave the unit unpowered for at least 5 minutes. This allows any residual electricity in the control board to dissipate, clearing the memory and any active error codes.
- Step 3: Restore Power – Plug the fridge back in or turn the breaker back on. The system will reboot from scratch.
- Step 4: Monitor the Display – Check for any flashing error codes. Put your hand near the vents to feel for airflow.
- Step 5: Be Patient – If the reset worked, it can still take a few hours for the fridge to return to your set temperature. Keep the doors closed during this time to retain cold air.
When to Use This Reset
- The fridge is running but not cooling.
- The display is showing error codes (it clears “ghost” codes so you can see if the problem persists).
- The fridge is acting up following a power outage or voltage surge.
Note: If the fridge still doesn’t cool after one reset, I don’t recommend repeating the process; at that point, it’s likely a mechanical failure (like a fan or compressor) that requires a technician.
Ghost Temperature Readings
A common issue in 2024-2025 models involves the control panel displaying the set temperature rather than the actual internal temperature.
- The Problem: The fridge may say it is 37°F, but the actual temperature inside has risen to 45°F or higher due to a cooling failure.
- The Cause: Often linked to faulty freon line fittings or a malfunctioning evaporator fan that runs intermittently.
- Tip: If you suspect a cooling issue, power cycle the fridge (unplug for 2 minutes). When it reboots, it will usually flash the real current temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is My Brand New Samsung Fridge Not Cooling?
One of the reasons is that your new fridge still in DEMO MODE. If you see on the display that says o FF or oF oF, that means your fridge still in the DEMO MODE.
In order to deactivate DEMO MODE, press and hold FREEZER and ALARM buttons until you hear a chime. If this combination of buttons will not work, try to press and hold FREEZER, ALARM, and FRIDGE buttons until you hear a chime.
If everything above is checked OK, that means you didn’t give the fridge enough time to cool.
If you have a new Samsung Family Hub Fridge and it still not cooling, you might need to activate Cooling Mode in the fridge settings.
How Long Does It Take For A New Samsung Fridge To Get Cold?
To get cold to a temperature of 0F for the freezer and 36F for the fridge compartments, a brand new Samsung Fridge requires at least 2-4 hours before you can put food in it.
Why Is my Fridge Not Cooling and Making Noise?
Most likely it caused by the ice build-up blocking or touching the evaporator fan blades, that’s why fan is making noise and may slow down air circulation. But If you open the fridge section door and this noise goes away, it is 100% related to the ice accumulation behind the TWIN COOLING panel.
Hi, I have the same fridge, RF26HFENDSR. We had “Refrigerator Fresh Food Evaporator Cover and Fan Assembly” and “Refrigerator Temperature Sensor” Installed 6 months ago. The same thing is happening again, ice collecting behind the panel on the inside back of the fridge and it’s not cooling. Freezer working fine. We can’t take that panel off without destroying it, so we defrosted with a hairdryer and it’s working for the moment. We can’t do the forced defrost you suggested because there’s no “Lighting” button on ours. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Did you have standing water in the drain hole, when removed that back panel TWIN COOLING ? If yes, then you need to replace drain tubes behind the fridge. This is one of the issues when you have condensation build up behind Twin Cooling panel and this condensation eventually become ice
Thanks for info. Re: “You can not test voltage of the evaporator fan with the doors open.” . . . . can I use the magnet on door to simulate “closed” door and test? . . . exactly Where is the magnet placed to enable “closed” door scenario?
Take a step ladder and look from the top on the door. You will see it
OK, thanks for the tip. The Freezer compartment is adequately freezing food. I’ll changeout temp sensor. Where is the Frig Temp sensor located? Behind the same panel that I previously removed? Is that the Samsung DA32-00033D Refrigerator Temperature Sensor Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) for my model RF28HMEDBSR? And if I remove fan is the external 110v testing voltage OK? I think I can test fan using display panel buttons? , using the “FF” forced mode?
Thanks is advance.
You need a temp sensor with a blue connector, located on the top portion of the panel, above the evaporator fan. The evaporator fan is 12V, not 110V. You can not test voltage of the evaporator fan with the doors open. I found temp sensor DA32-00011D will fit your model. But you have to check this with any appliance parts store.
Hello E.S:
Mdl: French Door Frig RF28HMEDBSR.
The bottom freezer is working properly but the upper refrigerator section is also freezing fresh food. I tried bringing temp up in freezer higher and frig to 44 degF without success. I turned off frig overnight and powered on again in the morning. A little better but temp again in frig. dropping to freezing fresh food, after 1 day. I tried again to do a complete defrost and removed rear interior fan/coil cover. There was NO ICE buildup and drains were clear unclogged. I used a compressor to insert a small tube to ensure drain clear. I cleaned/dried all condensation on coils and re-assembled everything. I turned on the power and observed freezer temp as lowering to 5 degF. The Frig does NOT come down in temp and displays 80 degF. That’s impossible as it feels much cooler. I tried reset [press Lighting & EnergySvr buttons] 10 seconds to NO AVAIL. I’ll be placing an extra thermometer to confirm actual temp in food compartment. I also tried POWER COOL feature on the FRIDGE selector and that did’nt help. The circulation fan seems to not operate as nearly long enough to cool frig compartment. How to test fan? And . . .
> What could be the problem?
If your fridge freezing food and your check everything what you could, one of the reasons why this happens is a faulty temp sensor in the fridge compartment. try to replace it and see if it will make a difference
Hi, We have a RFG238AARS. The until will completely shut down; lights, compressor, whole thing, and the night light in the dispenser panel will blink rapidly. No codes. Nothing illuminated on the panel. Just the rapid flash if the nite light. I have to unplug, wait for blinking to stop, replug and everything on the screen will illuminate, interior light will turn back on and the compressor kicks on to begin cooling. Happens 4-5 times a day. Repairman called, but they are several days out. Any suggestions for me to try?
main control board or power board failed. Nothing you can do, it requires professional troubleshooting
the compressor of my Samsung freg ,the wire is good (not open and ground) but stack and tray to run the compressor while supplying directly to the center winding and run winding terminal then skreching the start winding but does not run properly . what shall i do please?
I do not quite understand your problem, sorry
Hi Eugene, came home to our RFG298AARS not keeping a temp much below 50F despite being set for 38F(freezer is functioning fine). It has occasionally gurgled and made a VERY low volume pop, pry a couple times per month. Ice seemed to melt ever so slightly as well. Cleaned off all dust from the back and removed all shelving, not frost or ice built up anywhere even spotted the small door (bottom middle) functioning up and down no problem. Unplugged to allow to defrost for a day. Thoughts.
Did you remove back panel (twin cooling) to confirm that there is no ice behind it? or you meant there was no ice in the holes on that panel?
Update and answer: did not remove the panel and no apparent ice build up anywhere. After defrost it is cooling better but not achieving “set” temperature. Ice makers and freezer continue to function normally.
I did not remove it and I’m being told by a repair company that it will be $500 to replace the drain tube, the styrofoam insulation, and some misc items due to a manufacturing/design flaw.
That’s true about design flaw. But you can manually defrost your fridge (at least for 24 hours) and only after that remove back cover to check if any ice left behind. This is #1 issue for Samsung fridge when temp fluctuating due to ice build up behind back panel.
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Hi Bill, i see that this model has 2 ice makers. But you are talking about an ice maker in the fridge compartment, right? 20F its very high temperature for the ice maker comaprtment. try to seal ice maker compartment all around with silicone (see the picture), maybe there is air leaks or gaps somewhere, allowing warm air to get inside
Thank you. I remove the ice bucket. With the light off via magnet I cannot feel air or hear the fan in the ice compartment. Should I consider replacing the augar/fan combo. The fridge is3 years old
To confirm that, you need to simulate also freezer door closed. But before, you need to remove back panel in the freezer with wires connected. Then simulate freezer door closed and see if the ice maker fan will start spinning. By the way, what’s the model number of your fridge? Maybe this procedure will not work for your fridge. )))
With the right door closed pressing the traditional button on the left door does not turn off the light. So how do I simulate the left door closed? Thanks
Then left door has a magnet (take a look at the top of the door) and apply any magnet on the fridge side.
I have a Samsung french door unit. My ice maker box temperature is 20 F. Fridge is 37 F and freezer is -4 F. I think the ice maker box should be colder to help with frost build up. Could the ice maker fan cause this higher temperature?
Possibly, you should try to simulate fridge door closed and feel if the air coming out from the ice maker vents on the left side
Hi Eugene
We have a Samsung French door fridge where the crisper drawers kept filling with water. We removed the back panel, but the styrofoam was frozen completely to the fridge and broke in the process. Cleaned everything and defrosted it all and tried to put the styrofoam back together. It has been 24 hours and the fridge is still not as cool as it should be. Is this because of the broken styrofoam do you think?
Possibly, but you fixed the consequence (manual defrost), not the cause (drain line clogged). Along with manually defrosting and need to pull fridge out and check grey drain tubes behind the fridge. They are probably clogged and causing water in the crisper
We checked that, we tested to see if they were clogged and the water came through fine into the trays at the bottom. Any other thoughts?
Thanks
Other than to replace back cover where is says “Twin Cooling” i can not recommend you anything. Somehow moisture build-up behind that panel and become ice eventually. So, maybe back cover not providing proper insulation. I guess..
My Samsung refrigerator model #RH29H9000SR – 28.5cu.ft Side by Side Stainless steel. I unplugged and plugged back and it showed 81 C error code for sometime after that it is displaying 57 and 53 degree F on the display. Even though I set it to 0 and 34 it is still showing 57 and 53 after few hours. what should I do? please let me know.
Hello. Did you read the article? I described the most possible issues and solutions there. First of all, you need to check the compressor, to see if it’s running or not. If its not running, you have to have a multimeter to check if power coming out from the control board (behind the fridge) to the compressor. If you are not comfortable to do this job, hire a technician.
Hi Eugene,
First of all thank you for all your effort in addressing the various issues that everyone has.
I just bought a samsung refrigerator RT35k5532SL its less than a week old.
I noticed that the fridge is not cooling as efficiently i suspect the frozen back panel as discussed above. Since this is fairly new. Would you just suggest to the store to give me a new unit? since its still within the 7 day replacement.
The freezer is very good you can feel the air blowing and is very cold.
But for the fridge i can barely feel the air blow and sometimes the water on the door isn’t as cold as the ones on the shelves.
Well, i recommend you to stay away from Samsung Refrigerators ))) Better get Frigidaire or GE.. Regarding why its not cooling properly, its not common for a brand new Samsung fridge and i doubt that the back panel is frozen behind. Get a new fridge thermometer from Homedepot and see what is the actual temperature and then make a conclusions
I have RF28JBEDB SG/AA- Power was out for three days. Had the unit plugged into a budget generator and I think the power delivered tot he unit sagged. Wife said she heard a couple pops then it would not get cold both fridge and freezer. After removing real panel it look like capacitor may have ruptured there is a light oil on the inside back panel and splashed on surface of other boards. unit has power but no colling / freezing
Well, then replace that control board with exploded capacitor. Samsung fridge has main control board with compressor inverter board on it, like 2 in 1. Who knows if that bad capacitor was part of the inverter board and thats why compressor is not working and thus no cooling
Eugene, I have the Samsung RSG307AARS. Our Ice Maker has not been making Ice for a few weeks now. Over the last couple of days we have noticed that the Fridge is not getting as cold as it should be. Fluctuating between 37 and 50 Degrees Fahrenheit. Today I ran the force defrost option and still it would not cool down and maintain 37 or so degress. There was also no noticeable fan noise. I can hear the compressor running. So I took off the back panel (Twin Cooling), and while there was a little frost there wasn’t a lot, but thought it was odd the fan wasn’t on. Even when at 60 degrees in the fridge. I had heard that when the door is open the fan shuts off. But could not find a way to trigger the fridge into thinking the door was closed. Could this likely be a case of a bad evap fan. I will say the fan spun without issue in both directions. Any advice would be helpful.
Hi Chris, i found that an evaporator fan in the majority of cases is not a problem. The problem is with water condensation which eventually becoming ice behind the panel. In your case, i would completely defrost all ice on the evaporator coils and then just monitor temp with a fridge thermometer from Homedepot. One of the reasons why temp is fluctuating, because air circulation is restricted due to ice build up. But unfortunately, there is no 100% cure for all these Samsung Fridge issues
I have a Samsung French Door Fridge (model RFG298HDRS) and the bottom freezer stopped freezing.
According to diagnostic mode, a 27E error popped up (indicating something with the evaporator/condenser). I replaced the evaporator fan and have air flowing throughout but it isn’t “cold cold” air and isn’t getting below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m planning on replacing the condenser fan now, but in case that doesn’t solve the issue, is there anything else I can do?
No, you don’t need to replace the condenser fan. But rather check if compressor is running or not.
Thanks for replying Eugene! Couple follow up questions:
1. Does it matter that the fridge is working fine but the freezer is not? If this is a specific freezer issue, does that change what I look for when I check the compressor?
2. How do I go about checking if the compressor is running properly?
Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it!
1. Whats the actual temp in the freezer? it should be around 0F or -18C.
Also check evaporator fan in the freezer. If it will stop working, there will be no proper air circulation and thus temp will go up
2. If the freezer temp around 0F or -18C – compressor is running properly. Sometimes you have a compressor running, but not producing cold. it is one of the signs that there is a restriction in the sealed system or compressor failed.
I have a Samsung Refrigerator/Freezer,SR-S2026CVW. The display showed -20 for the freezer and +6 for the Frige. But internal temps for the two were +11 and +15. Turing the mains off/on started the compressor and the display then showed the correct temperatures. The freezer and frige both cooled to the selected temperature, but within a few hours the display locked on -20 and +6, even though the freezer and frige were warming up. If the power is cycled off and on every few hours, the compressor will keep the unit cold, but once it reaches the target temperature, it won’t start up again with out being powered off and on.
Hi Rick, i can not tell you what exactly the issue, but i can guess its a control board. At least, this is where i would start troubleshooting.
I have the same problem with my refrigerator SR-S20DTD. I have wasted to much time and money on this which includes mother board, sensors what not. Better throw that thing away as I haven’t met a technician who can solve this issues. Screened every corner of internet but no clear answers
I bought samsung elegant inox 2 star refrigerator in reliance digital 1 week back .fridge is looking good but not cooling water bottles . I observed different cooling temperature but any temperature not cooling water bottles .overall things and freezer is cooling how is only water bottles are not cooling
What’s the temp in the fridge compartment? You need to get a fridge thermometer to know exactly what the temperature inside.
Hi got n samsung 2 door bottem freezer …it works but when you switch it on it works till the temp is ok and then it switches of, does not switch on again ?. It cool and freezers ..?Please advice on whats wrong.
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