Few things are as stressful as discovering your Samsung refrigerator has stopped cooling, especially when you’re worried about food spoilage. Samsung units are widely known for their advanced Twin Cooling Plus technology, but they are equally notorious for specific failures—ranging from simple ice buildup on the evaporator fan to more complex compressor inverter board issues. Whether your freezer is still working but the fridge is warm, or the entire unit has shut down completely, identifying the root cause is the first step toward a fix. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the most common reasons your Samsung fridge isn’t cooling and provide step-by-step DIY solutions to get your kitchen back in order.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
The most common reason a Samsung fridge stops cooling is ice or frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which restricts air circulation. This is often caused by a faulty defrost heater, a clogged drain line, or a failed defrost sensor.
Quick Fix Checklist:
- Activate Forced Defrost (Fd): Press and hold the Freezer and Lighting (or Energy Saver/Fridge) buttons for 8 seconds until you hear a chime, then toggle to “Fd” on the display. See below for more model specifics.
- Check for Blockages: Ensure air vents inside the fresh food compartment aren’t blocked by oversized items.
- Inspect the Fan: If you hear a grinding noise that stops when you open the door, ice is likely hitting the evaporator fan blades.
- Verify Demo Mode: If the display shows “OF OF” or “O FF,” the fridge is in Demo Mode. Hold Freezer and Alarm to deactivate.
If Not Cooling Properly, But Freezer Works.
The evaporator coils are frosted over:
When the evaporator coils get covered with frost, the evaporator fan is unable to circulate cold air within the fridge due to blockage, and the fridge will not cool. This problem is related to failed defrost cycle. Sometimes, the problem can be solved by replacing the defrost temperature sensor (but it does not always fix the problem)
There are actually 2 identical temperature sensors. But you will need one with the white connector on the right side of the fridge.
If you see ice build-up on the back wall in the vent holes, where it says “Twin Cooling” of your fridge or maybe you hear noise coming from the fridge, but when you open the door noise is just gone? That means you have an issue with condensation which accumulates behind that panel and eventually becomes frost or even ice chunks.
In case there is an issue with proper drainage (drain is fully or partially clogged) during Defrost Cycle, you will have standing water at the bottom.
Standing water evaporates and condensates at the top section of the Twin Cooling Panel, causing the evaporator fan to ice up.
This problem also refers to, when you have water in or under the crisper drawers and your Samsung fridge starts to leak because the drain line is clogged and water is overflowing.
In this case, you need Drain Repair Kit below, and here is the video of what you need to fix these issues permanently.
Evaporator fan frosted over:
If your Samsung fridge is not cooling, one common cause is that your evaporator fan is blocked by ice. You need to check your evaporator fan to make sure it’s working or not.
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If you have a french-door refrigerator, close the left door and put an ordinary magnet on the right side of the fridge to simulate the right door closing.
After a couple of seconds, the evaporator fan should start spinning. If you don’t hear the fan running, most likely fan blades are blocked by ice, or the fan is burnt. You can defrost the fan through forced defrost, or replace it with a new evaporator fan. Read the article below for details on ice on the evaporator fan. New fans can be purchased on Amazon for $15-20, depending upon model number click here.
Related Read: Troubleshooting All Samsung Refrigerator Noises
Defective or Weak Defrost heater :
Under normal circumstances, the defrost heater assembly (you can get one here) is responsible for defrosting any frost that has been formed on the evaporator coils in the refrigerator, whose function is to allow cold air to freely flow thereby leading to the freezer cooling.
However, when the defrost heater assembly is not functioning accordingly, excess frost will build upon the evaporator coils, as a result, the airflow will be restricted, which will result in the fridge not cooling.
Note: We may receive a small commission from your purchase, at no additional cost to you. Double check model numbers before ordering.
A defective thermistor or temperature sensor:
When working properly this component keeps in check the temperature of the refrigerator and transmits the information on the temperature reading to the control board so that appropriate power can be supplied to the evaporator fan as well as the compressor for effective cooling in return.
But when the thermistor is defective both the compressor and the evaporator fan may not work properly. Get a replacement here: Amazon.
Defrost thermostat failure:
This component allows the power to flow to the heater. When it fails, power will not flow and the heater will not be able to heat up and melt ice or frost which may build up on the evaporator coils. Amazon has replacements for most models.
How To Activate Forced Defrost Mode?
To activate the Forced Defrost (Fd) mode on most Samsung refrigerators, you need to use a specific button combination on the control panel. This is the most effective way to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coils without unplugging the unit for 24 hours. The “Fd” mode forces the defrost heater to turn on. It will melt ice around the coils and the evaporator fan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Locate your buttons: Find the two buttons required for your specific model (see the combinations below).
- Enter Service Mode: Press and hold both buttons simultaneously for 8 to 12 seconds. The display will go blank or start flashing.
- Cycle to “Fd”: Once the screen begins flashing, tap any other button (usually the Fridge or Lighting button) repeatedly until the letters “Fd” appear on the display.
- Listen for the Beep: Once “Fd” is selected, the fridge will begin to beep. This beep will continue throughout the entire defrost cycle (usually 20–30 minutes) to remind you that the heaters are running.
Button Combinations by Model Type
Since Samsung control panels vary, try these common combinations:
- Type A (Most French Door models):
Freezer+Lighting - Type B (Models with Energy Saver):
Energy Saver+Fridge - Type C (Family Hub/Touchscreens): Look for the “Cooling” or “Fridge Manager” app in settings, or use
Freezer+Fridgeon the physical door buttons. - Type D (Internal Controls):
Fridge+Freezer(orPower Cool+Power Freeze)
- How to stop it: To exit the mode early, repeat the button combination and tap through the menu until the screen returns to normal, or simply unplug the fridge for 30 seconds.
- Check the Drain: If you have heavy ice buildup, the defrost water might overflow if your drain tube is clogged. Keep a towel handy near the bottom back of the fridge.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the fridge in “Fd” mode for more than one cycle (usually 30 mins) at a time. If the ice is very thick, you may need to repeat the process, but allow the unit to rest between cycles to prevent the plastic internal panels from warping.
To exit the Forced Defrost mode you can simply unplug the power from the wall or wait 20 minutes till forced defrosting will be done.
Possible Cooling Problem Solution – DIY Heater
This DIY secondary heater may help to evenly distribute heat to defrost ice build-ups in the upper section of the evaporator coil and thus providing proper airflow and proper cooling temperature all the time.
If Freezer And Fridge Not Cooling At All
Compressor Inverter Board Failed
The compressor inverter board controls power to the compressor and adjusts its speed to regulate cooling. If the board fails, the compressor won’t receive power, and both the fridge and freezer will stop cooling completely. Troubleshooting the issue requires using a
Compressor Malfunctioned
If the compressor is getting power and maybe even humming, but not producing cold, this is one of the reasons when the compressor is lost efficiency or failed either mechanically or electrically.
Refrigerant Leak In The Sealed System
A sealed system is where the refrigerant circulating from the compressor to the evaporator coils and back. This system contains lots of copper or aluminum tubes.
When one of the tubes has developed a tiny hole, it will create a leak and the refrigerant in the system will escape and evaporates eventually.
Restricted Drier Filter
This problem is not new to the Samsung refrigerator. From my experience as a Appliance repair technician, I have seen this many times.
The drier filter serves to filter moisture, dirt from the compressor. When its clogged by any of these particles, it will restrict refrigerant flow in the system and thus compressor will not be able to push or pump refrigerant.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling Because of Ice Buildup — Key Points
- Ice buildup can block cold air circulation, causing the fridge to feel warm despite frost inside.
- A frozen evaporator fan can’t distribute cold air when ice traps the blades.
- Worn or damaged door seals let warm, moist air in, leading to excess frost.
- A failed defrost heater means frost isn’t melted during defrost cycles, so ice accumulates.
- In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board disrupts regular defrosting and airflow.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling After a Power Outage: Quick Troubleshooting Steps
- Fridge has power (lights/display on) but isn’t cooling properly
- Perform a full power reset (unplug or flip breaker for several minutes)
- Try a control panel reset (Power Freeze + Power Cool buttons)
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after power restoration
- Check if the compressor is running or clicking but not starting
- Inspect for surge damage to the main control board or inverter board
- Ensure vents and airflow inside the fridge and freezer aren’t blocked
- Confirm condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating normally
Fridge Not Cooling after you have moved it
If your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling after a move, it’s likely because the internal fluids haven’t had enough time to settle. To fix this, you should leave the unit unplugged and undisturbed in its new location for at least three hours to allow oils and lubricants to return to the compressor. Additionally, ensure the appliance is plugged into a functioning power source and allow a full 24 to 48 hours for it to reach its set temperature, keeping the doors closed as much as possible to speed up the process. If these steps don’t work, a simple 5-minute “power cycle” reset may clear any temporary electronic glitches caused by the relocation.
Control Board needs a Reset– Not Cooling
You can reset your refrigerator through power cycling when it’s not producing any cooling. Start by disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Then, leave it alone for at least 5 minutes to reset. It will reset the fridge’s control board/inverter board and get rid of any active errors. Then, reconnect the refrigerator and check that cooling is restored.
Quick Reset Checklist
- Step 1: Cut the Power – Completely disconnect the fridge from electricity. Unplug it from the wall, or if the plug is inaccessible, shut off the dedicated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
- Step 2: Wait 5 Minutes – Leave the unit unpowered for at least 5 minutes. This allows any residual electricity in the control board to dissipate, clearing the memory and any active error codes.
- Step 3: Restore Power – Plug the fridge back in or turn the breaker back on. The system will reboot from scratch.
- Step 4: Monitor the Display – Check for any flashing error codes. Put your hand near the vents to feel for airflow.
- Step 5: Be Patient – If the reset worked, it can still take a few hours for the fridge to return to your set temperature. Keep the doors closed during this time to retain cold air.
When to Use This Reset
- The fridge is running but not cooling.
- The display is showing error codes (it clears “ghost” codes so you can see if the problem persists).
- The fridge is acting up following a power outage or voltage surge.
Note: If the fridge still doesn’t cool after one reset, I don’t recommend repeating the process; at that point, it’s likely a mechanical failure (like a fan or compressor) that requires a technician.
Ghost Temperature Readings
A common issue in 2024-2025 models involves the control panel displaying the set temperature rather than the actual internal temperature.
- The Problem: The fridge may say it is 37°F, but the actual temperature inside has risen to 45°F or higher due to a cooling failure.
- The Cause: Often linked to faulty freon line fittings or a malfunctioning evaporator fan that runs intermittently.
- Tip: If you suspect a cooling issue, power cycle the fridge (unplug for 2 minutes). When it reboots, it will usually flash the real current temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is My Brand New Samsung Fridge Not Cooling?
One of the reasons is that your new fridge still in DEMO MODE. If you see on the display that says o FF or oF oF, that means your fridge still in the DEMO MODE.
In order to deactivate DEMO MODE, press and hold FREEZER and ALARM buttons until you hear a chime. If this combination of buttons will not work, try to press and hold FREEZER, ALARM, and FRIDGE buttons until you hear a chime.
If everything above is checked OK, that means you didn’t give the fridge enough time to cool.
If you have a new Samsung Family Hub Fridge and it still not cooling, you might need to activate Cooling Mode in the fridge settings.
How Long Does It Take For A New Samsung Fridge To Get Cold?
To get cold to a temperature of 0F for the freezer and 36F for the fridge compartments, a brand new Samsung Fridge requires at least 2-4 hours before you can put food in it.
Why Is my Fridge Not Cooling and Making Noise?
Most likely it caused by the ice build-up blocking or touching the evaporator fan blades, that’s why fan is making noise and may slow down air circulation. But If you open the fridge section door and this noise goes away, it is 100% related to the ice accumulation behind the TWIN COOLING panel.
2nd time in 3 years that my Samsung RF30HDEDTSR has frozen the refrigerator evaporator coils and stopped cooling the fridge (Freezer is fine). I forgot how to get the iced over back panel off. It feels like the styrofoam insulation is stuck to the ice. I put it in FD mode
I have a Samsung rf32fmqdbsr. The refrigerator section is not cooling but the freezer is fine. I checked the evaporator coils, the evaporator fan, the defrost heating and they are all fine. I also tested the amp on the compressor and it is fine. The problem is the compressor will run until the fridge gets to 15 C and at that point it shuts down. Every time the the fridges gets to that same temperature the compressor shuts down. It will start up again if the fridge temperature rises, but will shut down again if it gets to 15 C. The electronic temperature is set to 4 C so I am not sure why it is always shutting down.
Fridge temperature sensor not calibrated or defective. You may insulate the sensor by covering with a heat shrink sleeve so that it does not get cold air directly, thus delaying the compressor cutting off and increasing cooling time to reach desired temperature. If this doesn’t work replace fridge temperature sensor.
Also check evaporator fan voltage (generally 12 V DC) and it’s rpm. If found low rpm replace fan.
Hope this solves you fridge cooling issue
Hi Ryan, I have the exact same fridge and the same problem! It started maybe about 2 weeks ago but I just noticed it about 5 days ago. I had a dishonest repairman tell me that the inverter board was fried and replaced it saying it would work, it didn’t, after 485 dollars… I was very disheartened by that experience so I didn’t want anyone else to look at is and instead just bought a new fridge. It hasn’t been delivered so I’m still debating if I should try it one more time. In any case, has your problem been fixed? Thank you so much for your time and any tips/updates you have
I have a Samsung Double Door has a problem cooling for a few days then does not cool and begins to melt
hello! samsung model RT28T5001SR… we’ve had the fridge a couple weeks.. sat in our family room for a few months during the remodel.. freezer works great, fridge warms up after a few days. I’ve taken apart everything that I can, and ordered a new evaporator fan for the freezer. There was minimal frost on the coils so I’m not sure if this is even the right part to replace. I’m struggling to find info on this model.. but am not impressed with what I paid vs problems I have now. Any helpful hints or path to take is greatly appreciated.. Thank You!
Unfortunately, dealing with Samsung fridges and trying to find the problem is tricky and not easy. I recommend you to call a trusted appliance repair company.
Hello Eugene,
I have a Samsung Double Door RT34M5518S8. The refrigerator not cools or freezes the contents. It was in direct sunlight these days, have tried to cover the sunlight as much as possible and turned it OFF for 2 hours and turned it back ON. Could feel the temperature has increased a very little but the problem persists. Freezer function is not there and refrigeration is not sufficient to keep the contents refrigerated.
Please help on this issue.
Does the fan working when you open the fridge door section? If not, remove cover and see why fan its not working. This evaporator fan helps to distribute cool air inside the fridge
Thank you for the response. The fan does work when we open the fridge.
Main problem is not cooling in both compartments. Something to do with the sensor?
Well, then you have a major issue with either a sealed system or compressor. it’s not a sensor 100%. Call a trusted appliance repair company to troubleshoot it
I have a samsung family hub 4 door refrigerator. The lower left gets cold to about 42 degrees (there is no ice buildup) I have changed out the temp sensor tested the thermistor all are fine. I replaced the main board and inverter. the ice dispenser makes ice and the rest of the fridge works fine. Did a force run on freezer did start force ice on coil. no errors running diag. What is it that I may be missing.
Model RF28N9780SR
IMHO, For me it sounds like a three-way valve could be a culprit. this valve dividing flow of refrigerant between the fridge section and freezer section where it is needed. Moreover, on your model, the freezer section divided into two compartments and each of them has its own evaporator coils. another thing that may happen is the capillary tube partially clogged on the left evaporator and not providing enough refrigerant flow and thus not providing proper cooling. By the way, how old is this fridge?
a little over 2 years old, is it just poor design or common with this type of fridge?
poor design, unfortunately
Sorry forgot to ask….
This is a closed system repair?
Yes
Samsung RF4287HARS/XAA the freezer is not cooling, the evaporator coil is cold and the compressor is working. The refrigerator is cold. Verified that the fans are working (removed and checked with 12 volt battery). The fans are not running after we reconnect the wiring. We swapped the controller board, but did not solve the problem. Could this be the temperature sensor?
Like, its not cooling at all in the freezer? What is the temp of the cooling coils in the freezer? What is the temp in the refrigerator section? For me it sounds like problem with the step motor valve, which diverts refrigerant between fridge and freezer sections. In any case, it sounds like a sealed system problem. Rather call experienced technician to check that.
This is an odd one. I have a Samsung RFG298xxxx. For the last couple years, the freezer section would work normally in the colder months–starting around October, but would only be “refrigerator cold” when it starts to get warm–around May. This was only a nuisance for how this “extra” fridge is used. This year, both the freezer and refrigerator have gone out this May. All of the diagnostic indicators on the front of the refrigerator when it’s first plugged in are reporting as normal. What is odd is that the house is kept around 75 degrees F year round. Anyone have any ideas?
You need to check if compressor is running or not. If its running and still no cold, then sounds like a sealed system problem
rf18hfenbsr
Saturday morning I noticed the fridge was cool, not cold. The digital temp display was showing the temp it SHOULD be, 36, but my fridge thermometer showed 57. It sounded normal like it was running.
I didn’t have a chance to mess with it until Sunday morning. I believe I tried just resetting it (holding power freeze and power cool) and the actual temp starting going down, maybe down to 45 but then went back up. I don’t remember what the digital temp was showing through this.
After several hours, I pulled the panel off and found the area fully iced over including the drain but no ice on the fan/back of panel. I melted all of the ice, plugged it back in and within 2 hours the temp was back to 36, actual and what the display showed.
Probably 8 hours later, it started warming up again. The digital display still showing at 36 but my thermometer was getting close to 50. I did not hear it running this time.
I did another reset (power frz and power cool) and it started running again, quickly getting back to 36. That was last night. I left a camera in the fridge that has a temp notification and the temp started rising again sometime this morning.
Another reset a few hours ago it cooled back down but is already rising again, digital display still showing set temp. It does sound like it’s running this morning though.
Just reset again and am waiting…
Could this just be the temp sensor or more likely a board issue?
I dont have the exact answer. But if you want to troubleshoot this issue further, you need to start with the sensor first, then move to the main control board
You can try adding an extra defrost heater about (55 watt) flexible type to the evaporator coil with nylon tie where ever you have noticed more ice.
Connect in parallel with the present defrost heater, making sure that the connecitons are dry and sealed with water proof sealent.
Take professional help if not confident.
I good service.We have a combi fridgeSR-L709EVSS.Run until it reanh temp switch of at se temperature but never starts again display blinks at set temp at set temp of freezer.If you switch of at the plug and switch on again it operates again until next cycle.Please give advise what to do .Unit is in Carnarvon Northern Cape
First of all, you need to monitor the exact temperature in the fridge. Do you have a fridge thermometer? If temperature fluctuating, lets say from +2 to +10 or even higher, then I assume you have a problem with the fridge temp sensor or main control board
Hi I have a RL32cscts fridge does not cool anymore,what can that be?
Hello. I have RF30HBEDBSR refrigerator. The freezing section stopped freezing. I opened up the back panel inside the freezer compartment but there was no ice buildup. The fan there working as well. I turned ON the Power Freeze function but it did not have any effect.
The top refrigeration section is operating normally.
The compressor fan is spinning.
I suspect this to be a control board issue but not sure which one of the three could it be. Do you have any recommendations on the correct diagnosing procedure?
Thank you!
Do you have a fridge thermometer? You need to know the exact temperature in the freezer and fridge compartments. Temp in the fridge should be in the range from +2 to +5. In the freezer from -18 to -24. There are 2 refrigeration lines coming from the compressor, if compressor failed, temp will be raisin up in both compartments. So, I don’t think you have a problem with the compressor or control board (cause you said fridge compartment is cooling ok). I assume your fridge has a reversing valve and not providing refrigerant for the freezer compartment.
Hello Eugen! I just bought a refrigerator Samsung RB34T652ESA / EK today and it worked for about 8 hours then it turned off completely, no light is on inside or outside the screen on the door, please can you tell me what it is?
Did you check power in the outlet?
Good morning… My samsung glacier rl40wgsw, on the glacier part only the cold air blows with the door of the freezer part open
I have a Samsung french door fridge and it started making a really bad noise, like something was banging in it, and then it quit working. A friend of mine told me it was my control board because the board looked fried in a couple of spots. I purchased another control board and he installed it and my fridge worked great for a few hours, and then the same thing happened again. The fridge won’t come on or work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Turn the fridge OFF for 24 hours with the doors open. Let it defrost. If after that, fridge will be cooling ok, then you had an ice build-up behind the panel in the fridge compartment and ice was too close to the fan blades
Samsung fridge model: RF260BEAESG/AA
My fridge was bought Dec 2017. Found water on floor under fridge Feb 2019. Called Samsung service department and was told to turn off ice maker, raise the front side of fridge, turn off energy saver and do manual defrost by pressing two keys at same time. I am a retired electrical and very handy. I did all and shut ice maker water supply. Weeks later found water and ice under crisper drawer. The problem is apparently in fresh food section defrost and has nothing to do with ice maker! Opened the back panel and saw ice on upper part of evaporator and drain hole. Defrost water can’t go to drain pan. Bought long drain hole clip to replace the original short one. Few weeks later we found milk smell bad. Put a thermometer in fridge and got temperature 52°F. The fridge was not cooling. Removed the rear panel and saw ice on upper section of evaporator. Replaced the thermostat. Milk got bad again few weeks later. Thermostat did not fix the issue. I heard of adding aluminum braid flexible heater to boost defrost heat. Bought Supco SH205 75 watt heater and wrapped on the upper section of evaporator. The Supco heater worked about 6 weeks and failed probably due to poor quality. Replaced with Gemline GH203 55 watt flexible heater. Have not had any issue ever since.
There are rumors that Samsung uses marginal defrost heater in order to get Energy Star rating. I believe the only fix is to add flexible heater wrapping on upper part of fresh food section evaporator.
Thanks Sander,
Did you just wire in the heater to the existing heater element power?
We may be having the same icing situation, but ours was definitely inside as well, so we didn’t check the back, so when it stops working again. We will check this out. To prepare for this, I found a used Gemline GH203 55 watt flexible heater thing online but it has little information and has no instructions. I am not a retired electrician, so do I need to get someone who is to install this part? Thank you for posting your problem solving steps! Much appreciated!
Hi,I have Samsung refrigerator with family hub on the door.Compressor working, but fan which cooling compressor not starting, compressor getting to hot.I applied 12v power directly to the fan and its working good, looks like its not getting power to it.Replaced inverter-the same problem.Looked inside and fridge is cooling, but the doors getting hot also.Any ideas?
Yeah, if the fridge doors getting warm (hot), it is one of the symptoms when condenser fan is not running. I am not sure if condenser fan on your Samsung model has a feedback circuit. How many wires coming to the fan? What is the model of your fridge?
I’m having a similar issue with my Samsung model: RF197ACRS.
I’ve read (almost) every comment here. Great stuff!
I had frost on the back panel and the noisy fan under the Twin Cooling logo.
I removed as much frost as I could see using a dryer, and left the fridge open for only about 10hrs (not enough, I fear). The fan is now operating fine (thanks for the magnet trick), but my fridge has only cooled to around 10C after 24hrs. The freezer seems fine.
I’m prepared to defrost for 24hrs and buy the “Samsung A/S Assembly-Water Leakage N DA82-01415A” part from Amazon, however; my biggest problem is that I am unable to remove the back panel. I’ve removed the three screws (two on the bottom, one mid centre) and 6 (or 8?) tabs along the side, but the top will not budge (like there’s another hidden screw). I’ve tried shimmying it down & side-to-side, but it won’t come off.
Any Ideas how to remove this without breaking it?
There is a screw under a little cover with an arrow on it, take the cover off and you will see the screw
Thanks for your reply! Yes, I got that one too.
In the end, the problem was I did not know that the Styrofoam is supposed to come out at the same time as the plastic cover. I was ONLY trying to remove the plastic cover.
Also, I did not let the refrigerator defrost long enough (only about 12-14 hrs) and the ice-wall was still adhering to the Styrofoam (well, the protective foil covering it). After a FULL 24 hr defrost (and hair-dryer), the panel did come off.
Thanks to this site, I now have all the parts to make the repair permanent.
I have a Samsung Refrigerator model RF23HCEDBSR the refrigerator section is not cooling but the freezer is fine. When this first started it sounded like the fan up top was hitting something then stopped altogether. There is ice visible in the breathing holes inside on the TwinCooling panel
I have the exact same problem. Has anyone got a solution?
Yes, Dawn, change refrigerator manufacturer. Several states have sued Samsung but they refuse to fix the design flaw. If you are not in one of the states that sued Samsung, you are out of luck.
Same problems here. Your evaporator fan is frozen up. Check out YouTube videos by Bens Appliances and Junk. Look for https://youtu.be/So1Zf-yIj94 but also watch https://youtu.be/ZuPwxRuhlYk. We ordered a repair kit from Ben (arrrived in 3 days), to install an additional defrost heater and drain pin, then we picked up a roll of Frost King insulating foil tape from the hardware ($5) and it was the fix for just over $45, using the kit we bought from him with the posi-tap connectors. (Actually pretty easy! And we are not especially handy.)
I have a Samsung RS2630WW that the fridge and freezer are not cold. I have done just about everything I could find on the internet to try and fix, no luck. Any ideas?
Hi I have Samsung Flex RF28K9070SR/AA Refrigerator not cooling. I changed the inverter control board but problem is not resolved. What else I do? If someone please help.
Before changing inverter board you were needed to check power to the compressor, then check power from the main control board to the inverter board. Then, check wire harness contninuity from the inverter board to the compressor. Also, check compressor windings resistance. All these procedures require some skills
I have a Samsung French door refrigerator. It randomly stops cooling. The fridge and freezer get warm then a day or so later the temperature panel starts blinking 8 and 32. After a day or so of that I’ll hear the ice maker fill and drop ice a while later. It stay on and cold for a day or so and then the cycle starts again. Suggestions?
Temp fluctuation i would address to the compressor. You need to do some troubleshooting by yourself. I would pull the fridge out and keep an eye on the compressor. How it sounds, how long it’s working, whats the temp of the compressor, etc…. Does the condenser fan (located on the back of the fridge) works ok? There are so many things tight together on the Samsung fridges. if one part not working, the rest will stop as well.