There is nothing more frustrating than pulling a load of laundry out of a Samsung dryer only to find it just as wet and cold as when it went in. While it’s tempting to start shopping for a new machine, a dryer that won’t heat is usually caused by one of four specific parts that have worn out or tripped. In most cases, you don’t need a professional to get your laundry room back in order. This guide will walk you through the diagnostic steps to identify the culprit—whether it’s a burnt heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or a simple airflow restriction—and show you how to fix it for a fraction of the cost of a service call.
Why is my Samsung Dryer Not Heating?
If your Samsung dryer is not heating, it is likely caused by one of these five common issues:
- Burnt-Out Heating Element: The most frequent cause; the metal coil snaps and can no longer generate heat.
- Tripped Thermal Fuse: A safety device that cuts power to the heater if the dryer overheats (often due to lint buildup).
- Defective Thermistor: A sensor that monitors internal temperature; if it fails, the control board won’t engage the heater.
- Clogged Exhaust Vent: Restricted airflow causes the dryer to overheat and trip safety sensors, preventing a rise in temperature.
- Faulty Centrifugal Switch: A motor component that ensures the drum is spinning before the heater turns on.
Detailed analysis of common heating issues
Burnt Heating Element
What it is: For your Samsung dryer to effectively dry your clothes, it must first generate heat. That’s where the heating element comes into play.
The precise design of the heating element can differ based on the model that you have. Still, they all generally work the same way.
When the machine needs heat, it sends power to the heating element. The heating element generates heat, which is then pushed into the dryer by a blower fan.
That hot, moving air removes moisture and dries out anything that you placed in your dryer.
Why it fails: Whenever a dryer isn’t heating up, there’s an 80% chance that it’s caused by a heating element that has burned out.
You can confirm whether or not that’s the case by inspecting the heating element on your Samsung dryer, either with a multimeter or visually.
When you use a multimeter to check the heating element’s resistance, the reading should be approximately 10 Ohms. If that’s the case, then that means your heating element is in good working order.
Also, you can grab a flashlight and inspect the entire heating element up-close.
Burnt out elements will give off a burnt smell or have burn marks somewhere along the length of the element.
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How to fix: To fix this problem, you’ll need to replace the heating element. For the most part, it’s a pretty straightforward task.
However, reaching the heating element housing is what makes this a time-consuming and labor-intensive repair job.
Always begin any repairs by shutting off the power supply to the dryer to prevent injury and even potential electrocution.
Then, keep your user manual and technical sheet close by as a quick reference. That will help you locate and identify the heating element on your model, which will be in its housing somewhere along the air vents.
To get there, you may need to remove several parts that include the drum and any other components in the way.
Once you’ve reached the housing, however, you’ll need to remove the existing heating element and disconnect the electrical connectors attached to it.
Reverse the procedure with the new element, and work your way backwards by replacing any components and panels you took apart earlier.
Burnt Thermal Cut-Off Fuse
What it is: When it comes to home appliances that generate heat (e.g. your stove, or in this case, your Samsung dryer), there’s an extra component that adds protection from overheating.
That part is called the thermal cut-off fuse. They’re known as a ‘sacrificial’ device because they burn or blow out to protect the rest of the appliance.
In this case, your Samsung dryer has a thermal cut-off fuse at the heater assembly that protects against overheating.
If temperatures rise too high, the thermal cut-off fuse will burn out and prevent the dryer from heating up.
Why it fails: When a Samsung dryer isn’t heating up, there’s a 10% chance that it’s because of a burnt thermal cut-off fuse in the heater assembly.
As mentioned before, this happens whenever the temperature around the heater assembly rises beyond safe levels, as the fuse burns out to protect the rest of the machine from damage.
That kind of overheating typically happens because the dryer’s vents are clogged.
Without proper airflow to carry heat away from the heating elements, the heater assembly overheats and leads to the thermal cut-off fuse burning.
How to fix: There are two parts to fixing this problem. First, you’ll need to replace the burnt-out thermal cut-off fuse.
These are ‘disposable’ parts in the sense that they can’t be repaired. They can only be replaced.
As usual, shut off the power supply (unplug) before performing any repairs. Plus, keep your user manual and technical sheet nearby as a quick reference.
That will guide you as you remove the necessary panels (typically the back panel) to access the heater assembly.
Here, you must be cautious of one other thing: if the heater assembly is still hot, do not work on it until it has cooled down completely.
Then, disconnect the burnt fuse and replace it with the new one.
Replacing the fuse only solves the symptom and not the root cause. Be sure to clean out all of the dryer’s vents to ensure proper airflow and prevent overheating.
Read: 5 Common Problems with Samsung Dryers
Cycling Thermostat Failed
What it is: Your Samsung dryer might not be generating heat continuously until the end of the drying cycle.
Instead, it only generates heat until it reaches its set temperature before shutting off the heater.
When the temperature is too low, then it should repeat the heating process as many times as necessary to maintain the right level of heat throughout the cycle.
To ensure that the heater turns on and off only when appropriate, your dryer relies on a cycling thermostat.
It senses when the temperatures get too low or too high, and reacts accordingly.
Why it fails: The cycling thermostat is continuously in use and might fail over time.
When that happens, it might not sense that the temperature inside the dryer is too low, and therefore fails to turn on the heater.
If you’ve been using your Samsung dryer for a long time now, then it’s possible that the thermostat has suffered from too much wear and tear and cannot function correctly.
You can diagnose the cycling thermostat with your multimeter by checking its resistance.
A functioning thermostat should produce a reading of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. However, it’ll show an infinite reading if it’s faulty and needs to be replaced.
How to fix: Typically, you can find the cycling thermostat behind the rear panel of the dryer.
That’ll depend on the exact model you have and its design, so refer to the user manual and tech sheet to be sure.
As always, disconnect the power supply (unplug) before beginning any sort of work.
To replace it, you’ll simply need to remove its electrical connector and the screws keeping it in place.
Then, put the new thermostat in and work backwards: screw it in place, replace the connector, then put the rear panel back.
Control Board Heater Relay Failed
What it is: As you might know, the ‘brain’ of almost any household appliance is the main control board.
Even the one in your Samsung dryer coordinates and controls most all of the appliance’s functions, including its ability to generate heat.
On that control board are a lot of electrical components controlling different parts of the dryer.
In this case, we’re looking at the relay on that control board which is dedicated to supplying power to the heater when necessary.
Why it fails: While the rest of the control board might be functioning normally, the heater relay on the control board may be the part that’s failed.
Despite everything else functioning correctly, that failed heater relay means that the control board isn’t sending any power to the heater.
How to fix: Technically, it is possible to fix just the damaged heater relay alone.
Depending on where you live, you might be able to find a service that can do it for you.
However, the more straightforward solution would be to replace the main control board altogether.
You’ll usually find the main control board located behind the control panel on your dryer.
You may have to remove the top panel to gain access to it, though that might differ depending on the model you have. As always, refer to the user manual and technical sheet to be sure.
Once you’ve reached the board, remove its electrical connectors and mounting screws. Place the new board in, and replace those screws and connectors the same way as before.
Improper power Supply
What it is: A dryer is a power-hungry appliance, especially when it comes to the heating element.
To generate heat, the heating element inside the dryer requires a continuous single-phase (US) 240V power supply.
Why it fails: Seeing as how the dryer relies on a 240V power supply, it should be connected to a two-pole circuit breaker (the rough equivalent of two single-pole breakers with a handle tie).
If only one half of the breaker trips, the dryer would only receive half the power it needs (i.e. 120V).
In simple terms, the other parts of the dryer, like the motor or control board, might receive power and function correctly.
In some cases, there is no handle tie connecting the two breaker handles (like in the photo below). If only one breaker trips, you will have a half-power scenario like discussed above.
When this happens, the heating element will not receive the power it requires and therefore can’t generate any heat.
How to fix: To fix this, you must restore full power to your Samsung dryer. Check your circuit breakers and identify which one powers your dryer.
Then, ensure that both of them are switched back on. If the same breaker keeps tripping, that’s a sign that there’s a potentially serious fault with your electrical system.
You’ll need to refer to a professional electrician to troubleshoot the problem and a dryer repair technician if that problem lies within the Samsung dryer itself.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are a few frequently asked questions regarding Samsung dryers that aren’t heating.
Why Heating Element Keep Going Out?
Suppose you’ve replaced your burnt-out dryer heating element, and the new one burns out as well.
If that’s the case, then your dryer might be lacking proper airflow. Remember: the dryer needs good airflow to prevent overheating its parts, like the heating element.
Many homeowners neglect to clean their dryer vents and filters regularly. As a result, lint builds up and prevents the air from flowing efficiently.
No matter how clean you think your dryer vents are, they could almost always use another cleaning!
How Do You Know If The Heating Element Is Bad In A Dryer?
There are two ways you can inspect the heating element: visually and with a multimeter. To make it easier, you can remove your heating element and inspect it under a light.
Just by looking closely at the heating element, you might be able to spot breaks or burn marks on the coils. Those are clear signs that the heating element is bad.
You can also use a multimeter to test for continuity and resistance. You can do that by pressing the multimeter probes to the wire terminals on the heating element. If equipped, your meter should beep if the heating element is still functioning correctly.
Is It Worth Replacing A Heating Element In A Dryer?
Replacing a dryer’s heating element might be costly (depending on where you live, of course), which is why some people consider buying a new dryer instead.
So, which should you do? Well, here’s a helpful rule of thumb: if the cost of repairing your existing dryer is 50% less than the price of a new dryer, then it might be advisable to just repair it.
In other words, if the repairs will cost more than half the price of a new dryer, then you might want to pay the difference and get a brand new model!
How Much Does It Cost To Replace The Heating Element In A Samsung Dryer?
Replacing the heating element in a Samsung dryer will involve two costs: the replacement part and the labor costs.
Typically, a Samsung dryer heating element can cost anywhere from $50 to $150. Paying the technician to replace it for you will cost anywhere from $120 to $200+ on top of that cost.
You could save a significant amount of money by replacing the heating element yourself.
However, you must have the know-how and experience to do it safely and correctly. If you’re ever unsure of yourself, it’s better to hire an expert to do it for you.
Error codes for Samsung dryer.
Read: 5 Common Problems with Samsung Dryers
Clothes dryer model numbers covered in this article: DV306BEW, DV306LEW, DV316BEC, DV316BEW, DV316HEC, DV316LES, DV316LEW, DV317AEG, DV317AES, DV317AEW, DV328AEG, DV328AER, DV328AEW, DV330AEB, DV338AEB, DV330AEW, DV331AER, DV331AEW, DV337AEG, DV337AEL, DV337AER, DV337AEW, DV338AEW, DV339AEG, DV339AEL, DV339AER, DV339AES, DV339AEW, DV340AEG, DV340AER, DV350AEG, DV350AEP, DV350AER, DV350AEW, DV393ETPARA, DV393ETPAWR, DV395ETPARA, DV395ETPAWR, DV3C6BEW, DV405ETPASU, DV405ETPAWR, DV407AEW, DV409AER, DV409AEW, DV409SEL, DV410AER, DV410AEW, DV419AES, DV419AEU, DV419AEW, DV428AEL, DV428AEW, DV431AEP, DV431AEW, DV438AEL, DV438AER, DV448AEE, DV448AEP, DV448AEW, DV456EWHDWR, DV484ETHASU, DV484ETHAWR, DV501AEW, DV5451AEP, DV5451AEW, DV5471AEP, DV5471AEW, BED70B, BED70W, DV203AES, DV203AEW, DV206AES, DV206LEW, DV209AEW, DV210AES, DV210AEW, DV218AEB, DV218AES, DV218AEW, DV219AEB, DV219AEW, DV220AEW, DV221AEG, DV221AES, DV229AEG, DV231AEW, DV2C6BEW, MDE6700AYW, MDE6700AZW, MDE9700AYM, MDE9700AYW, MDE9700AZM, MDE9700AZW, NED7200TW, YIED7200TW, and YNED7200TW.
I’m having trouble with our 9 year old Samsung DV431. It runs but stopped heating, so I bought a kit off Amazon and on three attempts to fix and replace the heating element, thermistor, hi-temp cut off, thermal fuse, and the thermal fuse at the blower. All the original parts passed the continuity test and had the correct resistance, but I replaced them anyways just to rule them out. I tested the relay at the control box and got 120V from each of the blue and black wires (with the dryer on), and I tested 240V from the power supply of the dryer. I’m wondering what else could it possibly be. I’m preparing myself to contact a technician since I’m thinking this might be a control panel issue or something. On a positive note, I can’t believe I was able to disassemble and and reinstall the dryer.
“It runs but stopped heating” Is it doing this every time you run the dryer? Did you try to run the dryer without the hose attached?
Yes, it stopped heating no matter which setting I use. In the meantime, I connected a duct with an inline fan from the warm/dry loft space above the dryer to the intake of the dryer. I’m able to dry the clothes somewhat but it take about 3 hours. I’m trying to replace the PCB on the control box but the original DC92-00322M part is discontinued and I’m not sure if there’s a compatible updated part.
DV328AWG dryer heats properly for the first few minutes of the cycle, then shuts down for the remaining cycle time. Is this a cycling thermostat issue?
Sounds like.. But before replacing thermostat with a new one, test it… Using pliers, hold thermostat and heat it until it clicks.. Then you need a multimeter to check continuity.. if there will be no continuity for a couple of minutes, the thermostat is faulty.
I have a Samsung Dv45h7000ew/a2 dryer. It quit heating up so I got into it and tested the thermal cut-off switch and cycling thermostat. Both tested good. The element tested good as well but still no heating. I am getting power to the element itself and I have good air flow. Are there any sensors for the exhaust that could go bad thinking airflow was blocked by lint?
Disregard found the problem. One of the wires came loose on the power block and turned a wire into a spark plug till it burnt apart completely
Hi Mr. Smith.
I tested the heating element and the thermal cut-off switch and they show continuity. The Model is DV45H6300EG/A3. Is there anything else I can test before spending $196.00 on a new heating element? Genuine OEM Part # DC93-00154A. Thanks for your help!
If the heating element shows 10 Ohms resistance you don’t need to replace it.
Do your dryer not heating up at all?
Mr. Smith,
We just replaced another heating element fuse and thermostat. The breaker tripped while in use. Now the dryer is not heating again and blowing cold air. No clog in vent line. Brand new parts yet again. Not sure what to do next here. Any suggestion would be great. I don’t think connections are bad either.
Hi Mr. Smith, the heating element on our Samsung Dryer Model DV42H5200EF/A3 went out and we replaced it only for it to short out again. This time we replaced the entire heating unit including the Cycling Thermostat and the Thermal Cut Off Fuse. We cleaned the as much of the vents as we could see and get to and turned on the dryer for about 10 minutes and it’s heating but now the right outside of the dryer is hot to the touch. Any suggestions? About to the point of just getting another dryer.
Dryer Hot to touch? Disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and let it run for 1 minute. Do you feel strong air flow coming from the dryer? If yes, then most likely dryer vent line is still partially or fully clogged.
I have the exact same thing happening. Replaced the entire heat assembly (twice) but still no heat. Any advice? Not clogged–strong air flow all of the way out to the exterior of the house
Check this video. But you have to have the proper tools to troubleshoot this issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I25dS6n6O8E
My dryer works but will not heat, cleans sensors, vent .
Want to ck heating element but don’t know where it is?
Under the drum?
Circuit board is on top.
Is a front loader.
HI, I have a samsung Multisteam, moisture sensor, smart care dryer that is 4 or 5 years old, we had to unplug it for a few days. We plugged it back in, as we have done before and at first the drying cycle would only run for a few minutes before shutting off and saying that everything was dry – even though it was on a manual 1 hour drying time. it did this a few times, I tried changing the drying cycle to sensor – still did three minutes then turned off, i tried every combination of drying cycle on there but still only worked for 3 minutes before shutting off, saying it was all dry. Then after a day it suddenly started working – or so I thought – as the drum was turning and it completed the manual 1 hour cycle. However when I took the clothes out they were still wet. I thought I must have hit the low heat button, so made sure that it was on high heat and put it on again. Once again it completed the 1 hour cycle, sang at me to say so, but the clothes were still wet. I next tried the cycle again but stopped it half way through to check on the clothes, they were wet and cold, no heat was coming out. I checked the vents, made sure all were clean and free of lint, which they were but the dryer still refuses to heat. Any ideas? Im wondering if it is a control panel and element that need replacing – if so any ideas how much time this would take a service engineer> Just so I can decide whether it is worth fixing or just wait until Black Friday and get a new one. I am a little disgusted that with the dryer being so young, ( there is only my husband and myself in our household so washing is two loads tops a week) that it has failed like this.
Thanks for your imput and time taking to read my question.
If there is no heat, its most likely heating element burnt out, but if Samsung dryer heating up (you can check it by opening the door 30 seconds right after you press the start button), but still not drying clothes and clothes are wet, this is 100% vent duct is clogged … Especially if your dryer on the second floor and exhaust pipe coming out on the roof, where it’s not easy to check if air coming out or not.
So, clean vent ducts and this problem will be fixed.
We replaced the heating element on your Samsung dryer but now it won’t even turn back on. Thoughts?
1. Drum belt slipped off
2. Idler pulley microswitch not engaged with the idler lever or broken
I have a 14 month older Samsung dryer. DVE50R5200W/A3
The dryer stopped heating but kept running. I ran the diagnostic and the error message CL9 came up which is supposed to mean clogged vent. I found a video of someone cleaning a Samsung like mine and removed the front panel and door, detached and removed the back air vent and took the lent trap out, and the front part except I didn’t take the part that looks like a fan apart, that’s connected to the drum and rolls with the drum. I vacuumed it all, reconnected everything, ran the diagnostic and it said CL9 again.
What is the sensor that causes the CL9 error code? Could the sensor be bad? Is there anything else it could be? I feel pretty comfortable taking those things apart and putting them back together, but would it be a different error code if the heating element was out?
The best way is to get a multimeter, take the dryer apart, check continuity of the heating element and if needed, replace it. I am sure problem with the heating element.
My Samsung dryer was working just fine until I had to unplug it for a couple days to use the outlet for something else, but when I plugged it back in now it just blows cold air and will not dry my clothes.
Did you accidentally use Air-Only cycle? Double Breaker is not tripped? If not, then you need to disassemble dryer and check for continuity heating element or thermal fuse.
I was going to unplug the dryer. How should I proceed?
OK, I’ve unplugged the dryer – but now it doesn’t even turn on?
Mr. Smith, my Samsung dryer (model:DV330AEBXAA) is blowing cold air. My plan is to replace the entire heating element assembly (part # DC97-14486A). Your instruction state”never remove the wires from the thermostat or high limit switch). Am I correct in thinking once I’ve removed the old unit I should attach the thermostat and high limit switch wire before attaching the heating element wires to protect those two items?
Hi Robert, unless you turn power OFF it doesn’t matter which order to disconnect or connect wires to the heating element or thermostat.
My Samsung dryer won’t heat.. we put a lite load in and set to dry… it turns on and begins spinning then about 2 minutes in the timer goes from 45 minutes to 1 minute and clothes still damp… it does this on all settings except for air fluff which will run entire cycle…
First of all, check vent line from the dryer to outside. Second, check moisture sensor wires to make sure they are not broken or oxidized. Along with that check heating element and thermal fuse
Same problem, set for 45min timed dry. After a few minutes it drops to 1 min. Replaced heating element assembly, and moisture sensors. Heating element assembly came with new thermostat and overload. Problem continues. Thoughts?
This particular problem not related to the heating element. Moisture sensor connectors could be oxidized and not providing proper continuity, telling the control board that clothes already dry. did you check wire continuity from the moisture sensor to the control board? Also, try to run dryer without vent hose connected. Will it be doing the same thing?
My Samsung dryer want heat. I check the heating element. When you cut it on it shows he code. I can take the duct off and it will run but not heat. Cleaned the filter and the duct. Bloows cold with the duct disconnected.
The most common parts to fail when no heat are: 1.Heating Element 2.Thermal fuse on the heater assembly. Seems like you missed something
Something keeps causing the thermal fuse and thermostat to short out. Replaced those parts as well as the heating element. It will dry three loads and stop working again. Heating element is fine but fuse and thermostat are blown. What to do?
try to do several loads without vent hose attached (if you can) , if it will runs just fine, then vent line clogged somewhere, i guess
My dryer keeps making a clicking sound but won’t start the drying cycle. The “drying” selection is flashing like its drying but its not. Whats wrong with it?
Usually, its a broken belt or idler pulley broken. In both cases you need to disassemble dryer, to replace these parts.
The first sign that something was not right with my Samsung DV40J3000EW/A2 Dryer was that the control panel lights “Drying” “Cooling”, “End” were all blinking simultaneously
and there was no heat coming from the dryer.
I did a little research and deduced that it was probably the heating element or sensors. With the help of a you tube video, I took the dryer apart to check. Sure enough the heating element coil was broken. The other sensors tested positive for continuity but I figured if I were replacing the heating element I might as well replace the sensors and the entire heating duct assembly. I purchased a genuine OEM heating duct assembly from GRP and installed. Success! The dryer is heating.
However, now the the control panel lights “Drying” “Cooling”, “End” are all still blinking simultaneously. This older model does not have an LED display screen, just the indicator lights.
Is there a way to reset?
Or, is there something else that needs to be fixed?
Never had this situation before, sorry. Don’t know how to help you.
I replaced the whole assembly for heating and it still doesn’t heat. It runs just no heat.
I have samsung dryer dv431aep/xac. Dryer is running ok but not heating. i changed heating element still not working.heating element has 10 ohm. I measure 240 volt, 120 volt each lug of heating coil. i checked control bord relay looks working ok. i changed thermostat, thermal fuse ,thermistor also.what could be the problem?
Well, you just covered everything, i don’t know what why you still have this issue.
Please help anyone!
I have the Samsung multisteam ventsensor dryer. The dryer work fine but not heat is coming out, my clothes take forever to dry, at least 3-4 cycle, each cycle is about 1 hour and 14 minutes. We couldn’t afford buy another dryer or get repair man to come. So I ask my husband to look online for video. Which he did and they suggested to replace the thermostat and heater element. The first time he took it out, it was so he can replace the new parts, once it was back together it started making this weird sound every time the drum roll. ( Kinda sound like a medal nut) and it the same thing as before the dryer spin but no heat. Them he went out to buy a multimeter and he open it again and he check everything was normal according to the multimeter. So he oil it and close it again. This time the dryer didn’t make that noise again. But the dryer still come out air no heat at all. Please help me what can it be.
Hello, How did you check that dryer do not produce heat? Did you disconnect vent hose behind the dryer or just open the door to check heat, during drying cycle? There are only 3 common parts may cause this issue. 1. heater 2. Thermal fuse on the heater assembly 3. Control board …. ATTENTION : i guess you checked power coming to the dryer, right? It should be 240V . If you will get only 120V, then reset your breaker.
I’m in the exact same boat. I performed all those checks to no avail. Could it be the PCB board even though the relay is pulling in?
Yes, it is very possible.
Samsung dryer not heating…I replaced the element and it worked for a week. Then I replaced the thermostat and the cut off fuse. Still no heat. Should I try replacing the element again or just get a new one. It’s only 4 years old Model dv42h5000
Hi Tongia, no don’t replace element until you checked for continuity. If there is around 10 Ohms then element is ok. If it reads O Ohms, then element is burnt. Also check wiring to the element, maybe you just messed up something.