Few things are as stressful as discovering your Samsung refrigerator has stopped cooling, especially when you’re worried about food spoilage. Samsung units are widely known for their advanced Twin Cooling Plus technology, but they are equally notorious for specific failures—ranging from simple ice buildup on the evaporator fan to more complex compressor inverter board issues. Whether your freezer is still working but the fridge is warm, or the entire unit has shut down completely, identifying the root cause is the first step toward a fix. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the most common reasons your Samsung fridge isn’t cooling and provide step-by-step DIY solutions to get your kitchen back in order.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
The most common reason a Samsung fridge stops cooling is ice or frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which restricts air circulation. This is often caused by a faulty defrost heater, a clogged drain line, or a failed defrost sensor.
Quick Fix Checklist:
- Activate Forced Defrost (Fd): Press and hold the Freezer and Lighting (or Energy Saver/Fridge) buttons for 8 seconds until you hear a chime, then toggle to “Fd” on the display. See below for more model specifics.
- Check for Blockages: Ensure air vents inside the fresh food compartment aren’t blocked by oversized items.
- Inspect the Fan: If you hear a grinding noise that stops when you open the door, ice is likely hitting the evaporator fan blades.
- Verify Demo Mode: If the display shows “OF OF” or “O FF,” the fridge is in Demo Mode. Hold Freezer and Alarm to deactivate.
If Not Cooling Properly, But Freezer Works.
The evaporator coils are frosted over:
When the evaporator coils get covered with frost, the evaporator fan is unable to circulate cold air within the fridge due to blockage, and the fridge will not cool. This problem is related to failed defrost cycle. Sometimes, the problem can be solved by replacing the defrost temperature sensor (but it does not always fix the problem)
There are actually 2 identical temperature sensors. But you will need one with the white connector on the right side of the fridge.
If you see ice build-up on the back wall in the vent holes, where it says “Twin Cooling” of your fridge or maybe you hear noise coming from the fridge, but when you open the door noise is just gone? That means you have an issue with condensation which accumulates behind that panel and eventually becomes frost or even ice chunks.
In case there is an issue with proper drainage (drain is fully or partially clogged) during Defrost Cycle, you will have standing water at the bottom.
Standing water evaporates and condensates at the top section of the Twin Cooling Panel, causing the evaporator fan to ice up.
This problem also refers to, when you have water in or under the crisper drawers and your Samsung fridge starts to leak because the drain line is clogged and water is overflowing.
In this case, you need Drain Repair Kit below, and here is the video of what you need to fix these issues permanently.
Evaporator fan frosted over:
If your Samsung fridge is not cooling, one common cause is that your evaporator fan is blocked by ice. You need to check your evaporator fan to make sure it’s working or not.
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If you have a french-door refrigerator, close the left door and put an ordinary magnet on the right side of the fridge to simulate the right door closing.
After a couple of seconds, the evaporator fan should start spinning. If you don’t hear the fan running, most likely fan blades are blocked by ice, or the fan is burnt. You can defrost the fan through forced defrost, or replace it with a new evaporator fan. Read the article below for details on ice on the evaporator fan. New fans can be purchased on Amazon for $15-20, depending upon model number click here.
Related Read: Troubleshooting All Samsung Refrigerator Noises
Defective or Weak Defrost heater :
Under normal circumstances, the defrost heater assembly (you can get one here) is responsible for defrosting any frost that has been formed on the evaporator coils in the refrigerator, whose function is to allow cold air to freely flow thereby leading to the freezer cooling.
However, when the defrost heater assembly is not functioning accordingly, excess frost will build upon the evaporator coils, as a result, the airflow will be restricted, which will result in the fridge not cooling.
Note: We may receive a small commission from your purchase, at no additional cost to you. Double check model numbers before ordering.
A defective thermistor or temperature sensor:
When working properly this component keeps in check the temperature of the refrigerator and transmits the information on the temperature reading to the control board so that appropriate power can be supplied to the evaporator fan as well as the compressor for effective cooling in return.
But when the thermistor is defective both the compressor and the evaporator fan may not work properly. Get a replacement here: Amazon.
Defrost thermostat failure:
This component allows the power to flow to the heater. When it fails, power will not flow and the heater will not be able to heat up and melt ice or frost which may build up on the evaporator coils. Amazon has replacements for most models.
How To Activate Forced Defrost Mode?
To activate the Forced Defrost (Fd) mode on most Samsung refrigerators, you need to use a specific button combination on the control panel. This is the most effective way to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coils without unplugging the unit for 24 hours. The “Fd” mode forces the defrost heater to turn on. It will melt ice around the coils and the evaporator fan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Locate your buttons: Find the two buttons required for your specific model (see the combinations below).
- Enter Service Mode: Press and hold both buttons simultaneously for 8 to 12 seconds. The display will go blank or start flashing.
- Cycle to “Fd”: Once the screen begins flashing, tap any other button (usually the Fridge or Lighting button) repeatedly until the letters “Fd” appear on the display.
- Listen for the Beep: Once “Fd” is selected, the fridge will begin to beep. This beep will continue throughout the entire defrost cycle (usually 20–30 minutes) to remind you that the heaters are running.
Button Combinations by Model Type
Since Samsung control panels vary, try these common combinations:
- Type A (Most French Door models):
Freezer+Lighting - Type B (Models with Energy Saver):
Energy Saver+Fridge - Type C (Family Hub/Touchscreens): Look for the “Cooling” or “Fridge Manager” app in settings, or use
Freezer+Fridgeon the physical door buttons. - Type D (Internal Controls):
Fridge+Freezer(orPower Cool+Power Freeze)
- How to stop it: To exit the mode early, repeat the button combination and tap through the menu until the screen returns to normal, or simply unplug the fridge for 30 seconds.
- Check the Drain: If you have heavy ice buildup, the defrost water might overflow if your drain tube is clogged. Keep a towel handy near the bottom back of the fridge.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the fridge in “Fd” mode for more than one cycle (usually 30 mins) at a time. If the ice is very thick, you may need to repeat the process, but allow the unit to rest between cycles to prevent the plastic internal panels from warping.
To exit the Forced Defrost mode you can simply unplug the power from the wall or wait 20 minutes till forced defrosting will be done.
Possible Cooling Problem Solution – DIY Heater
This DIY secondary heater may help to evenly distribute heat to defrost ice build-ups in the upper section of the evaporator coil and thus providing proper airflow and proper cooling temperature all the time.
If Freezer And Fridge Not Cooling At All
Compressor Inverter Board Failed
The compressor inverter board controls power to the compressor and adjusts its speed to regulate cooling. If the board fails, the compressor won’t receive power, and both the fridge and freezer will stop cooling completely. Troubleshooting the issue requires using a
Compressor Malfunctioned
If the compressor is getting power and maybe even humming, but not producing cold, this is one of the reasons when the compressor is lost efficiency or failed either mechanically or electrically.
Refrigerant Leak In The Sealed System
A sealed system is where the refrigerant circulating from the compressor to the evaporator coils and back. This system contains lots of copper or aluminum tubes.
When one of the tubes has developed a tiny hole, it will create a leak and the refrigerant in the system will escape and evaporates eventually.
Restricted Drier Filter
This problem is not new to the Samsung refrigerator. From my experience as a Appliance repair technician, I have seen this many times.
The drier filter serves to filter moisture, dirt from the compressor. When its clogged by any of these particles, it will restrict refrigerant flow in the system and thus compressor will not be able to push or pump refrigerant.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling Because of Ice Buildup — Key Points
- Ice buildup can block cold air circulation, causing the fridge to feel warm despite frost inside.
- A frozen evaporator fan can’t distribute cold air when ice traps the blades.
- Worn or damaged door seals let warm, moist air in, leading to excess frost.
- A failed defrost heater means frost isn’t melted during defrost cycles, so ice accumulates.
- In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board disrupts regular defrosting and airflow.
Samsung Fridge Not Cooling After a Power Outage: Quick Troubleshooting Steps
- Fridge has power (lights/display on) but isn’t cooling properly
- Perform a full power reset (unplug or flip breaker for several minutes)
- Try a control panel reset (Power Freeze + Power Cool buttons)
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after power restoration
- Check if the compressor is running or clicking but not starting
- Inspect for surge damage to the main control board or inverter board
- Ensure vents and airflow inside the fridge and freezer aren’t blocked
- Confirm condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating normally
Fridge Not Cooling after you have moved it
If your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling after a move, it’s likely because the internal fluids haven’t had enough time to settle. To fix this, you should leave the unit unplugged and undisturbed in its new location for at least three hours to allow oils and lubricants to return to the compressor. Additionally, ensure the appliance is plugged into a functioning power source and allow a full 24 to 48 hours for it to reach its set temperature, keeping the doors closed as much as possible to speed up the process. If these steps don’t work, a simple 5-minute “power cycle” reset may clear any temporary electronic glitches caused by the relocation.
Control Board needs a Reset– Not Cooling
You can reset your refrigerator through power cycling when it’s not producing any cooling. Start by disconnecting the unit from its power supply. Then, leave it alone for at least 5 minutes to reset. It will reset the fridge’s control board/inverter board and get rid of any active errors. Then, reconnect the refrigerator and check that cooling is restored.
Quick Reset Checklist
- Step 1: Cut the Power – Completely disconnect the fridge from electricity. Unplug it from the wall, or if the plug is inaccessible, shut off the dedicated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
- Step 2: Wait 5 Minutes – Leave the unit unpowered for at least 5 minutes. This allows any residual electricity in the control board to dissipate, clearing the memory and any active error codes.
- Step 3: Restore Power – Plug the fridge back in or turn the breaker back on. The system will reboot from scratch.
- Step 4: Monitor the Display – Check for any flashing error codes. Put your hand near the vents to feel for airflow.
- Step 5: Be Patient – If the reset worked, it can still take a few hours for the fridge to return to your set temperature. Keep the doors closed during this time to retain cold air.
When to Use This Reset
- The fridge is running but not cooling.
- The display is showing error codes (it clears “ghost” codes so you can see if the problem persists).
- The fridge is acting up following a power outage or voltage surge.
Note: If the fridge still doesn’t cool after one reset, I don’t recommend repeating the process; at that point, it’s likely a mechanical failure (like a fan or compressor) that requires a technician.
Ghost Temperature Readings
A common issue in 2024-2025 models involves the control panel displaying the set temperature rather than the actual internal temperature.
- The Problem: The fridge may say it is 37°F, but the actual temperature inside has risen to 45°F or higher due to a cooling failure.
- The Cause: Often linked to faulty freon line fittings or a malfunctioning evaporator fan that runs intermittently.
- Tip: If you suspect a cooling issue, power cycle the fridge (unplug for 2 minutes). When it reboots, it will usually flash the real current temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is My Brand New Samsung Fridge Not Cooling?
One of the reasons is that your new fridge still in DEMO MODE. If you see on the display that says o FF or oF oF, that means your fridge still in the DEMO MODE.
In order to deactivate DEMO MODE, press and hold FREEZER and ALARM buttons until you hear a chime. If this combination of buttons will not work, try to press and hold FREEZER, ALARM, and FRIDGE buttons until you hear a chime.
If everything above is checked OK, that means you didn’t give the fridge enough time to cool.
If you have a new Samsung Family Hub Fridge and it still not cooling, you might need to activate Cooling Mode in the fridge settings.
How Long Does It Take For A New Samsung Fridge To Get Cold?
To get cold to a temperature of 0F for the freezer and 36F for the fridge compartments, a brand new Samsung Fridge requires at least 2-4 hours before you can put food in it.
Why Is my Fridge Not Cooling and Making Noise?
Most likely it caused by the ice build-up blocking or touching the evaporator fan blades, that’s why fan is making noise and may slow down air circulation. But If you open the fridge section door and this noise goes away, it is 100% related to the ice accumulation behind the TWIN COOLING panel.
I have the Model RF25HMEDBSG/AA Samsung refrigerator cooling issue now 55 degrees in the refrigerator. The unit is 5 years old. I want to remove the unit from my house and buy new similar Samsung 4 door unit. But I am hesitant to do so.
Does any one know for sure if the new Model RF25HMIDBSR refrigerator has new improved cooling change engineered in this current Model?
Thank you,
Ron
I have a RF260BEAESR Samsung French door refrigerator. The freezer works fine but the refrigerator was making some weird noises, now it will only go to 50 degrees. Any idea how to fix? Repair guy is very far from us.
I am having the same issue. Did you by chance get it resolved?
Hi Eugene, I have a Samsung RS22 fridge. Had some issues with the fans and more not working. PC, 1 sensor and compressor was replaced. Fridge is running nicely and suddenly on low temp switches completely of, it does not start compressor or anything else on again. What else can I check, what might be the problem.
I have an RSG257 that suddenly stopped cooling in both fridge and freezer. It was off for several days and still doesn’t cool, so I’m ruling out freezing coils. The temperature sensors seemed to be correctly reading the fridge and freezer temperature as well, so I’m guessing those are okay. I got it to go into forced function and could hear the fan start but not the compressor. I accessed the inverter control board and the LED is not lit at all. I checked the voltages – I’m reading about 10v on the compressor signal pin. I checked the connections from the ICB down to the compressor area and everything seems okay. Does this point directly to the inverter control circuit board as the culprit or am I missing something? If I buy a replacement board and that doesn’t fix it, am I able to return it? Thanks!
The compressor should start in 5 minutes, not right away (or depends on the state of the compressor or cycle)
Did you check the service manual in this article?
Yes – I followed through with the manual procedure but not having the LED light wasn’t mentioned
Dave, what i would do is to check if the inverter board is getting power, firts. After that, i would check the power going to the compressor on the board side and compressor side. Does the board is getting power?
I have a RFG297ABRS Samsung refrigerator. In the beginning of my problem the freezer stopped working. the refrigerator section continued to work for a few weeks until it stopped. I was trouble shooting the system and a tech said to change out the compressor inverter board, which I did. Still nothing. After trouble shooting further, on CN75- 1(blk-gry) I had 0volts that was to have 13vdc.CN75- 2 (brn-gry) had 5vdc which was good. and CN75 4-3(or-rd) had ) 0volts not 2.5vdc as expected. Am I correct to replace the main board or is there something further I need to check?
Hi, I have a RF30HBEDSR and an experiencing a scenario where there is no cooling in both the fridge and freezer. The compressor is running and there is a solid red light on the inverter board. The temperature display shows an initial warm temperature after plug in and then shows cooling as the temperature drops on the display toward the set temperature yet the fridge and freezer are actually still at room temperature. Typically is would question the cooling/freon flow from the compressor however that does not explain the false temperature display on the front panel . The unit has been unplugged for many many days so there would be no ice buildup in the freezer or fridge. No error codes appear when into self diagnosis mode (only -88 88). The fridge can also be put into FF mode and the compressor runs but no cooling, I can’t think of one issue that would cause no cooling and also a false temp display. Any help would be appreciated.
i am having the same problem any news on what it was
In the hot weather, the fridge/freezer became very loud, with bad vibration !
Like something was loose and rattling ! It was switched off and left for a
long time. When switched on, a humming noise can be heard, but both
fridge and freezer warm inside. No more noise or vibration !
Junk. Im stuck with a new unit that crapped out in 2 days. pos folks
what did you end up doing?
My RS21HFLMR- both frigde and freezer not cooling but fan is running. Temp was reset in the past 28 her ( as advised by a technician) Please advise as technician callout are too costly
Hi, Eugene,
I have a RF268ABRS. Plug the power in, the fridge and freezer works as expected and get to the target temperature just fine (-2F, 38F). However, after less than 48 hours, the fridge will suddenly stop working and the freezer will thaw. At this point the temperature on the panel is showing the target temp only, no spot temp. But if I disconnect the power and replug in, the temperature will then display correctly and usually it will be 35F in the freezer and 66F in fridge. And the restart will make the fridge work again. I also notice when the system stop working, the temperature rises very quickly and there is heat on the surface between the freezer and the fridge. Any idea what could possibly be the issue?
“there is heat on the surface between the freezer and the fridge” – that might be the problem with the condenser fan motor (close to the compressor)
Hi, my refrigerator model is RF28HFED and the fridge abs freezer are not working. The temperature on the door says -8 for freezer and 68 for fridge. They change a little but the freezer is definitely not cold at all. I was trying to test the blink theory but I can’t get it to blink at all. It was blinking yesterday when my dad came over to troubleshoot
1. Try to flip the breaker OFF/ON in order to reset control board
2. If it will not help, pull the fridge out and check compressor if its working or not.
3. If compressor is not working, check compressor inverter board
Hi, I have a Samsung RF268ABRS model. Realize the freezer was not working a few days back. The unit can cool/freeze properly after disconnect the power and reboot. But after 48 hours the same issue happen again. I realize once the temperature reached the preset target in both the freezer and the fridge, the temperature on the panel won’t change according to the real temperature anymore. For example, the display is showing -2F and 38F, but the freezer is thawing, and unplug and replug, the display will show 25F and 68F. It will then properly cool down to the target with the correct temp displayed. Is this a sensor issue or PCB issue. My model seems to have a ceiling freezer temp sensor that cannot be replaced.
I cant tell you exactly what went wrong with your fridge. You can try to replace freezer temp sensor first and then if it will not fix the problem, replace PCB board
It’s a Samsung refrigerator with the middle drawer, and my issue is with the freezer. It’s first started when I received a code of 5E. Unplugged it thinking it would reset it and went to 0F. So I got online and found how to reset the system and did that and now it is cooling in the refrigerator, but the freezer is still not working. It has been thawing, While I cleaned it out really good for the last couple days. I’ve Been injured so that’s why I have taken my time. I would assume by now the freezer has totally been thawed out by now. Turned it back on everything seems to be working fine except for the freezer. My question is what could be causing this issue?
One thing is to remove the rear panel in the freezer and see if evaporator coils are frosted over with ice. If they are, something wrong with defrost cycle (thermostat, heater) If not, the problem can be with the diverter valve (not water inlet valve)
My RF25HMEDBSR model is not cooling the refrigerator. It displays the temperature to be 38degreez, but is actually about 58 degrees. The coils are not freezing over. I replaced the temperature sensor, but no help. Any suggestions?
Evaporator fan is running?
I am not sure. It is at daughter’s house. I will have to recheck. We originally had problem with fan and evaporator freezing up. Put in drain kit and it hasn’t froze up since. Just checked and fan in not running. Should it run with doors open? I only measure about 1.5 volts in plug.
No the fan is not running. Will it run with the doors open? I only show about 1.4 volts dc.
Fan will not run with the door open. You need to use a magnet to simulate closed door (see article)
Yes the fan is running.
If temp sensor is ok, then it can be the main control board issue?
my samsung RF4287HARS/XAA refrigerator is cooling but the freezer is not. 38 deg. F fridge/ 38 deg. F freezer. Ice making is slow to non existent. Inverter PCB board solid red LED
Is any ice build-up on the back panel or behind the panel in the freezer?
Refrigerator : RT50H5809Sl
Display blinks as below
21
E
I have a Samsung refrigerator RH2SH5611WW/AA001, The freezer side works fine but the refrigerator side stopped cooling. It’s been looked at by a tech and I was told it was the fan. I had him replace the fan again. It was supposed to fix the problem. Unfortunately the refrigerator stopped cooling again today and the display started blinking the number 34. I cannot do anything to stop the blinking number and the refrigerator just keeps getting warmer.
In January 2018 they replaced the Evaporator fan motor and in April they replaced the main PCB. I’m one step closer to just getting a new refrigerator I will not get another Samsung.
Im having this same issue, Eugene Smith, what you think is going on?
What i think, i wrote in the article ))
Please check article and other comments, i explained this a million times already
Hi,
My Samsung fridge model rt72k6360sp is not cooling properly while freezer is working fine. One year ago same problem was encountered and technican suggested replacement of some sensor/sensors but after his visit fridge start working as normal and I have not asked for replacement of any sensor. Again same problem is encountered. Please suggest.
There is no proper and permanent solution, even from Samsung. You can keep replacing parts, hoping that it will fix the problem. But there is a big chance that the problem come back again. At least I don’t know a universal solution for your problem
What has Samsung done to correct such a common problem???
Hello everyone, I have a Samsung American Fridge Freezer RSA1UTMG. For the past two days now the fridge and the freezer section haven’t been cooling at all. There are no funny sounds/clicks, the compressor is working, the fan is working, the coils at the back are clean, no ice build up inside the back panel of the freezer! Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks.
Sounds like a major issue with your fridge.
1. Sealed system has a leak
2. Sealed system drier is clogged, not allowing refrigerant to flow and thus not cooling
My Fridge is off completely. When I disconnect from outlet and drain the power it starts up for about a minute and the cooling fan turns on and off intermittently and then turns back off. In the past that trick worked but now it’s just turning off – no lights, no nothing.
1. Main control board malfunctioned
2. Or User interface board
My fridge started doing this exact thing, the freezer stopped cooling, then the middle drawer, and now the fridge, the compressor hums loud on start up then slowly gets quiet. Is there a fix for this? Seems like a coolant leak.