Just the other day, I got a call because a customer was having a problem with their stove breaker tripping. In this particular case, I discovered that it was due to a loose connection in the junction box (this was a hard-wired unit).
The arcing inside the loose wire nut caused excessive heat which melted about half of the wire nut. This allowed the exposed conductors to barely touch the ground wire next to it, causing a short circuit.
Once the breaker tripped, the overheated conductors cooled down, causing them to move ever-so-slightly away from the ground wire. This allowed the breaker to be reset, as the short was no longer present. But the next time they used the stove, the same result would repeat.
This was a fairly unusual chain of events, but in my 30 years as an electrician, it’s not the first time I’ve seen something similar. Read on to see what other situations may cause your stove breaker to trip.
Your breaker might be tripping for one of the following reasons:
– Your stove has a damaged cord or whip
– Pinched or compromised stove internal wiring
– A bad wiring connection in the junction box or outlet
– A problematic burner switch or relay
– Your breaker is weak and needs replacement
– Your breaker and/or circuit is undersized
In this article, we’re going to explore the most likely reasons (in order from most likely to least likely) that may be causing your stove to keep tripping the breaker.
WARNING: Working with 240 volts is dangerous. Make sure power to the stove is off.
1. Bad Connection at outlet or junction box
The most likely culprit happens to be the easiest to check.
First, TURN OFF THE BREAKER to keep yourself (and your stove) from harm.
Then slide the stove out until you have access behind the unit.
For cord-and-plug stoves:
– Unplug the cord from the wall outlet, and move the stove completely out of the way.
– Remove the outlet cover plate and then the four screws securing the outlet.
– Pull the outlet out and examine the wiring and connection terminals.
– If you see blackened spots or melted plastic coating (wire insulation), you likely have found the issue.
– Check for loose connections. Tighten all terminals.
– If the outlet itself is burnt, you’ll want to replace it.
– When reinstalling the outlet, be careful not to pinch the wires or spear them with the screws.
– Turn power back on and test BEFORE completely reinstalling the stove.
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For hardwired stoves:
– The stove will have about a 6-foot whip on it, allowing you just enough room to squeeze behind it.
– With the BREAKER OFF, unscrew the cover plate to the junction box.
– Check the connections, looking for signs of arcing and burning.
– If I get a whiff of the smell of burnt plastic upon opening the box, it’s a dead giveaway.
– Fix any connections that are suspect. Test everything for tightness.
– Be careful as you reinstall the whip and box cover so that you don’t pinch the wires.
2. Terminal Block Connection Is Burnt
What it is:
The terminal block is where the cord connects to your stove.
The block is located at the back of the stove, behind a rear access panel. In most cases, you only need to remove the small cover plate, not the entire back panel.
Why it fails:
The number one reason for failure I’ve seen over thirty years, is a loose terminal screw.
The original installer either didn’t tighten the terminal screw enough – or else they tightened it too much, stripping out the threads.
Any loose electrical connection will likely induce arcing, which causes intense heat. That heat will potentially melt the plastic sheathing and cause short-circuiting or fire.
Another possibility is that, upon installation, one of the conductors got pinched or its insulation got cut and exposed. This can cause “grounding out” (i.e. a short circuit).
There are a lot of sharp metal edges around this junction area, so it takes a fair amount of care to install these properly.
One more issue I’ve come across, is when the installer did not use a strain relief or bushing for the cord. This allows the cord to move and rub against the sharp metal edges.
If the terminal block is melted or broken, it will need to be replaced. Likewise, if the cord is compromised, you will need a new one.
How to fix:
First and foremost, unplug the cord from the wall.
Then, you’ll need to gain access to the existing terminal block by removing the stove’s rear cover plate or panel.
Once you do that, you should see the terminal block mounted onto the inside of the stove.
They’re relatively straightforward to identify; you’ll notice the cord wiring going right into the terminal block, which is also connected to other wires supplying power to the stove’s components.
Before removing the existing terminal block, be sure to take note of the connections.
On most models, the connections will be color-coded to make things easier for you.
Taking a ‘before’ photo might be helpful, or you can refer to any diagrams provided on the stove or in the user manual.
Put the new terminal block in place and reconnect the wires the same way as before.
Note: You may have either a 3-wire or 4-wire cord. If replacing it, make sure you get the same type. Otherwise, it won’t plug into your wall outlet.
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3. Damaged Internal Wiring
What it is: Whether you have a gas or electric stove, you’ll find that there are plenty of wires running throughout the appliance.
They’re usually kept out of sight, so you’ll probably need to reposition the stove and remove some panels to gain access to them.
These wires deliver an electrical current to all of the stove’s components, including the digital displays, heating elements, and even the igniter.
To locate and identify these wires, it’s always best to refer to the user manual or any technical sheets included with the appliance.
Why it fails:
Despite being hidden away, the wires for your stove can sometimes suffer damage or become loose.
Damaged or exposed wires may come into contact with other hot wires or the metal surfaces inside the stove. As a result, that creates a short circuit.
The breaker will sense the short and trip, protecting the circuit from further damage and a potential fire.
How to fix:
Fixing damaged wiring can be time-consuming. First, you must disconnect any power or gas connections to the stove.
For electric stoves, simply unplug the cord from the outlet. Or, if it’s hardwired, you’ll need to disconnect the whip from the junction box. TURN OFF THE BREAKER FIRST.
For gas units, turn the gas shutoff to the OFF position, then loosen the hose fitting and disconnect.
Now you can move the stove out and away from the cabinet for easy access.
There, it’s essential to check not just for one damaged wire but any additional ones as well.
Note: There may be an anti-tip chain holding the stove from coming out fully. Just unhook the chain (it might have to be unscrewed) to allow full removal.
With the stove out, you can remove the back access panel and see the wiring. Check for any blackened wires or connectors and replace as necessary.
As always, keep the user manual and technical sheet nearby for easy reference.
4. Stove Burner Switch Is Burnt
What it is:
These days, most stoves rely on burner switches, which are also known as ‘infinite switches’.
In simple terms, they are variable switches that deliver power to each burner based on how far you turn the knob attached to it.
The switch will allow power to continue pulsing to the heating element until the desired temperature is reached, after which the power will be shut off.
When the burner cools down below a certain range, the switch will close (re-engaging the circuit), and burner will heat up to within the designated range again.
The process will repeat itself to ensure that the burner stays in the desired temperature range.
Usually, each burner switch will work for a single heating element. However, that might differ depending on the brand and model of the stove you have.
Why it fails:
Burner or infinite switches are known as bi-metal switches. As it operates, the switch itself goes through a repetitive process of heating and cooling.
Metal can only handle so many cycles of hot/cold before it eventually wears out.
Typically when an infinite switch fails, it will fail in the open position, keeping the power from the burner.
However, sometimes the switch will fail closed. This takes away the limit on how much current the burner can draw, causing an overload.
If that overload exceeds the amperage rating of the circuit, the breaker will trip.
How to fix:
A faulty burner switch can’t be fixed, so it needs to be replaced for you to use the stove safely again.
Use the model number of your stove to find the correct burner switch. There are many websites that can help you identify the part number.
The existing switch will be behind whichever knobs you use to control the stove. However, you’ll need to remove the correct panel to gain access to those switches.
Once you have access to the switch, remove any screws keeping it in place as well as its electrical connectors.
You may notice burn marks or smells on the old switch; clear indicators that the switch is damaged and faulty.
Connect the new switch and mount it back in place. Be sure it’s oriented the proper way.
5. Weak Breaker
What it is:
A circuit breaker is as the name suggests: it breaks an electrical circuit when it senses a short-circuit or overload.
So, the circuit breaker reacts by tripping and breaking the circuit to prevent damage to the appliance, overheating which could lead to fires, or even injuries like electric shock to people using the appliance.
Some appliances, like stoves, ranges, and ovens, draw a lot of power. So, they need to be connected to a circuit and breaker that can handle those kinds of electrical loads.
Why it fails:
If the breaker trips the moment you turn on the stove, it’s a tell-tale sign that the problem is likely somewhere in the stove itself.
However, if you’re using the stove normally and the breaker trips a few minutes after turning it on, then that’s a sign that your breaker might be the one with the problem instead.
It’s possible that the breaker has become too weak to keep up with the energy demands of the stove. Breakers can wear out over time.
This may only occur when you’re using several burners on the stove, or maybe even an oven, simultaneously – when you are using the maximum draw of the appliance.
Read: How to Tell if a Circuit Breaker is Bad
How to fix:
To fix this, you’ll need to ensure that your home has a breaker (and circuit) that’s correctly sized for the stove you’re using.
For example, you may have a 30-amp breaker, even though your stove pulls in 38 amps.
This is where you could have a critical issue.
If you suspect your breaker is undersized, you’ll need to verify the size of the circuit wires that feed the stove from the panel.
If you have a 30-amp breaker, and the circuit wire is 10-gauge copper, then you MUST NOT PUT A LARGER BREAKER ON THE CIRCUIT.
This would be dangerous. The 10-gauge wire is only rated for up to 30 amps. If you were to put a 40-amp breaker on it, the wires could easily overheat and cause melting and a fire.
However, if you have a 30-amp breaker with 8-gauge copper wire, then you are okay to put a 40-amp breaker on it.
Conclusion
These are the top 5 reasons your stove might be tripping your breaker. Of course, there are other causes possible, but they are far less common.
The problem could be in the circuit itself. Read “Why Does My Circuit Breaker keep Tripping?” for details on troubleshooting a circuit issue.
Also, it could be a control board issue. Many units have digital displays that can glitch out and cause the breaker to trip.
Like most troubleshooting, it often will just take some logic and trial-and-error to find out which component of your system is the culprit causing your issue.
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No mention in this article about RCDs (residual current device). I have found leakage to earth in heating elements quite common whether it’s oven, dishwasher, washing machine, electric stove, etc. Everything works if earth is disconnected but DO NOT TOUCH appliance. Having reconnected earth I disconnect elements, one at a time, if more than one, switch appliance back on until culprit trips the RCD.
Thank you so much. Valuable information.