Common LG Electric Range Problems

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These days, plenty of homeowners have opted to equip their houses with LG electrical appliances.

That comes as no surprise, seeing as how the Korean manufacturer has proven itself to be the top choice with a wide range of high-quality appliances. And none are more famous than LG electric ranges.

Still, as fantastic as they are, people occasionally face a few common problems with these LG electric ranges.

Some of the more common LG electric range problems include the oven light going out, control panel becoming faulty, stove heating elements not working, and incorrect oven temperatures.

Don’t fret! In this guide, we’re going to take a deep dive into these common LG electric range problems. By the end of this guide, you’ll discover the causes behind these common problems and how you can solve them.

Let’s get started.

Know Your LG Electric Range

Before we look at common issues you might face with your electric range (sometimes called an electric stove), it’s essential to know the sections of the range itself.

To understand the problems that you’re currently facing or might one day face, it’s beneficial to think of your LG electric range according to the following sections:

  • The cooktop.
  • The oven.
  • The controls.

Of course, the electric range may also have a drawer area and the rest of its exterior. However, the cooktop, oven, and controls are where most common LG electric range problems happen.

Oven Light Goes Out

Let’s start with one of the most common but also most straightforward problems to address with LG electric ranges: an oven light that won’t turn on.

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Regardless of the specific model you own, the ovens on electric ranges have at least one light bulb inside of them to light up that space.

With a working light, you can clearly see everything going on inside and keep track of whatever you’re cooking or baking. 

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Just like any other lightbulb in your house, however, there will come a time when the oven light will stop working sooner or later.

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If that light is the only thing that’s not working, you can still cook with that oven.

However, it’s going to be very frustrating when you can’t see the space clearly with your own two eyes. So this is a problem that you’ll want to fix sooner rather than later.

If the oven light goes out on your LG electric range, the problem may be in one of these three parts:

  • The light bulb itself.
  • The socket that holds that bulb.
  • The assembly that houses the bulb and the socket.

The Oven Lightbulb

The first thing you should do is see whether or not the lightbulb has burned out. If you’ve got a multimeter at home, you can also use that to confirm that there is a supply of power going to the bulb.

If the bulb is indeed the problem here, then you’re in luck. All you’ll need to do is buy a replacement, put it in, and you’re good to go again!

The Light Socket

Sometimes, the problem isn’t with the bulb, but with the light socket into which you plug that lightbulb. A multimeter will come in handy if you have it so that you can see whether or not the socket is receiving power.

If the socket isn’t working, then you’ll need to replace that instead.

The Light Assembly

If the lightbulb is fine and you find nothing wrong with the socket, you may be looking at a problem with the whole assembly instead.

That might cost a bit more to replace compared to just a socket or a lightbulb, but you’ll know it’s worth it when your oven is well-lit again.

Control Panel Not Working

Some people also experience problems when it comes to the buttons or controls on their LG electric ranges.

Perhaps nothing happens when you press on the buttons you want to use. Or, even more confusing, you may find that some buttons work while others do not.

Well, if you’re experiencing this, there are two areas that need troubleshooting:

  • The control panel itself.
  • The printed circuit board (PCB).

The Control Panel

At first glance, it’s normal to assume that the problem may be with the control panel itself.

Perhaps it’s been through some rough use, or the person who put it together didn’t do it correctly.

If this is the case, you may have to replace the entire control panel. Unfortunately, you can’t replace individual buttons, as the control panel comes as one big piece.

Believe it or not, though, your issues with the control panel might have nothing to do with the panel at all!

Remember: the control panel is just the part where you put in your ‘instructions’ to the electric range.

That panel needs to connect to something inside the range, and that’s the printed circuit board or PCB.

The Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

You see, almost all home electrical appliances rely on printed circuit boards or PCBs. That includes your LG electric range as well.

Think of the PCB as the brain of your electrical appliance that tells it what to do based on instructions that you provide by using the control panel.

Sometimes, the contacts on the PCB might get dusty or suffer from water seepage which happens over time. As a result, the control panel becomes useless.

If this is the case, the PCB may require cleaning to remove dust. Some people also use contact cleaner to ensure that the connectors can work correctly.

In more severe cases, however, the entire PCB may have burnt out. That would require a total replacement.

Whatever the case may be, always remember one thing. It’s safer to get a trained professional to inspect and repair it for you, especially when it comes to electrical parts like the control panel or PCB.

Stove Heating Elements Not Working

Another common issue that you might come across is when your stove heating elements don’t heat up.

This can be very frustrating since it’ll interrupt any cooking activities you have planned.

Here, the source of the problem may be with one of the following:

  • The surface element board.
  • The heating element.
  • The wiring.

The Surface Element Board

On an LG electric range, the stovetop heating elements rely on electricity to generate heat.

That’s where the surface element board comes into play. That is the component which regulates the flow of power and how much heat is generated, based on your settings.

When the surface element board becomes faulty, you’ll usually see that two or more heating elements stop working as they should, assuming any of them work at all.

Multiple burners failing at the same time is a clear sign that the problem is with the surface element board.

However, if you notice that only one heating element isn’t working, that might narrow down the problem somewhat.

The Heating Element

If a single heating element isn’t working, then it might just be that heating element that’s faulty.

Once you’ve confirmed that the heating element is plugged in properly (and not loose), your next step would be to use a multimeter to check if there’s any power flowing to it.

If the meter shows that power is flowing as it should, then the problem might be with the heating element itself, which may need replacing.

The Wiring

Another possibility is a problem in the wiring itself. Any wires carrying electrical power are at risk of burning out.

Besides that, those wires may also be loose somewhere along the way.

Everything else may work perfectly fine, but if the wires can’t effectively conduct the electrical power to the heating element, then you won’t get the heat that you expect from it.

Thankfully, wires can be replaced, and it won’t take long before you’re using the stove as you usually do.

Incorrect Oven Temperature

Now, let’s look at the belly of the LG electric range: the oven. Here, one common problem that people tend to face is that the oven doesn’t correctly heat to set temperatures.

That can spell disaster if you plan on baking or cooking anything that requires precise temperatures!

As you’ll see, problems with the oven have many similarities with those involving the stovetop heating elements.

Typically, the cause of incorrect oven temperatures is somewhere among these three components:

  • The heating element or board.
  • The temperature sensor.
  • The air circulation motor.

The Heating Element Or Board

Just like on the stovetop, the oven also relies on a heating element and a board that controls its flow of power.

If either of these components is faulty, that could cause the oven to heat up to a temperature that’s different from the one that you’ve set.

Thankfully, the heating element in the oven is much easier for you to inspect yourself. Look at it closely for any breaks or blisters to figure out whether or not it needs replacing.

Similarly, a faulty control board can also cause the oven’s temperature to differ from the settings you’ve chosen.

The Temperature Sensor

Inside the oven, there’s a sensor that monitors the temperature inside at all times.

That sensor works together with the oven’s control board to make sure that you have the correct temperature inside.

Simply put, if the sensor detects that the temperature has dropped too low, it’ll tell the control board to send more power to the heating element, so the oven gets hotter inside.

However, if the temperature sensor isn’t working correctly, it might never send that signal to the control board. 

The Air Circulation Motor

Here’s something that many people overlook: the air circulation motor. Inside the oven, there’s a motor that helps to circulate hot air throughout the oven to help cook your food items more evenly.

As with any mechanical part, there’s always a chance that the motor will stop working at some point.

Without sufficient airflow, the temperatures inside the oven may become unbalanced.

That could affect the temperature sensor’s readings. As we’ve seen earlier, that could affect the oven’s ability to reach the temperature that you’ve set.

DIY Or Call An Expert?

When it comes to fixing common LG electric range problems, you may feel tempted to do the job yourself.

But always bear in mind that when it comes to electrical appliances, it’s still safer to hire an expert to fix it for you.

Fixing electrical appliances yourself is quite dangerous, and could result in injury.

So, don’t be afraid to call an expert who has the proper training and equipment to get the job done right!

Reader Comments (77)

  1. The control panel on our LG electric Range model #LRE3061ST/00 has melted in spots. Big melt over the controls for left back element and a smaller melt on the right hand side. Repair guy came and couldn’t find anything faulty with the oven, but the warranty company agreed to replace it. 4 months after the panel was replaced we have a small melt starting on the right hand side. I called the warranty company and they sent a repair guy over. The repair guy said its the hot pots that are causing the melt. Well….hello…it is a stove…pots get hot…I totally do not understand why anyone would give that as a reason for a stove panel to melt. Because of that fraudulent information they won’t repair. Never in my 60 years of cooking on a stove have I ever had one that melts till now. What is going on LG? Warranty company says it doesn’t effect the performance…but it will eventually because the melted part is dry and eventually cracks leaving an unsafe appliance in my kitchen. Despite paying for a 4year extended warranty I feel unprotected and that nobody really cares. It is very discouraging and disheartening.
    Kathy Thomas

  2. Hi
    My oven LG LRE3085ST. Bake element does not work. The top element (broil) does not work. But the roasting element and the convection element work. The fan (convection) does not work. Test all the elements, they are not burnt (50 Ohm), visually is very good. No burnt fuse found. The power 250V is OK. On the control panel no components are burned. The temperature sensor is OK. ??? I do not know what to do.

  3. I have 12 years old LG electric range model LSC5683 WS For a while the left front element would not heat when I touched “on” I just lived without it. A few days later I tried it again and it worked. After few days later same problem . What’s going on ?

  4. Hi Eugene,
    I have a electric LG slide in stove model # LSE3092ST.
    The led light when I turn on the stove is partial lit up. The numbers are not light up properly, but my oven still works.
    Do you know what I need to change to fix it?
    Many thanks,

  5. Hello, I have a LG electric range model #LRE6387ST. When I plug in an appliance to the power outlet on top of the range, there is a plastic type burning smell and the electric cord prong heats up and gets soft. My husband removed the back of the oven where all the wires etc are, and identified the power outlet area box where wires enter it (green, red and white) is the problem. It is next to the circuit breaker. The wires are still intact. I’m unable to identify any parts numbers for the box on two Canadian websites, and Do you have any suggestions- would this part be specific to LG or universal?

  6. the right side on the outside of the oven gets very hot near the cooktop and around that general area. Too hot to touch. Previous ovens got warm but not this hot. It seems hazardous.

  7. I have a LG LRE3083ST/01 electric range. So far it’s been a great range except that the front left burner doesn’t heat up as it should (gets warm but not enough to cook with). I checked the resistance of the single 2500 W element and the resistance is within spec. According to the simple LG troubleshooting guide, the culprit is the main system control PCB (but that is only if the resistance is good AND if the burner doesn’t get hot at all). I’m wondering if the issue is the thermal sensor (integrated with the heating element assy) as opposed to the main PCB. I suspect that the thermal sensor isn’t sending the proper signal to the main control board. I may go ahead and examine the main PCB for any obvious damage or to just disconnect and reconnect the electrical connectors. Your thoughts?

    • You can check resistance of that temp sensor. I can not tell you how much exactly it should be, but if its around 1000 Omhs , the sensor most likely is good. Just replace PCB

  8. I have an LG LRE 3194 convection oven. Today when my wife put it on bake the broiler came on full and stayed on. I cycled the main power off for 60 seconds then back on to reset any relays, etc. We tried again and had the same result. I then had her switch to convection bake and it seemed to work ok. Thoughts? Is this a broiler shorting or an oven relay control board going bad, or something else possibly?

  9. I have an LG double oven (model DE3037ST/00) and the broiler of my upper oven no longer works (infrared). How can I test it and can that be replaced/repaired ?
    BTW, my lower element in the upper oven works fine.

  10. Help …..
    My problem is driving me crazy – I am losing sleep because I can hear it at night.
    That said, we bought our LG Radiant Cooktop in 2009 – and it has worked perfectly until about 2 months ago. All of a sudden – it began beeping at different times… say about 6-7-8 beeps (much like when it locks or turns on or off). This happens continuously – I can hear it at night when I am in bed. We have shut off the breaker overnight .. It seemed to have quieted for a bit but went right back after about 24 hours.
    Is there anything we can do shy of purchasing a new cooktop that is a bit too costly at present.
    Angela Porpora

  11. The oven knob turns, but it doesn’t turn on the oven. When it does, it bakes on broil or something else. Today I couldn’t turn off the oven. I had to flip the breaker switch hoping it would turn it off. Luckily it did.

  12. Have a Lg double oven (Lde4413st)
    When I turn on lower convection oven and let run for a while it blows the thermo sensor. Fan is blowing when you close is a little loud but it works. Any ideas on why its over heating?

    • JAD

      Same with our LG 4413st, 2 days ago the left front burner stop working.
      We call for service and they are asking $685 for repairs.

  13. Same issue with my range, and it stopped doing that, and now the left front won’t work, the BORAD clicks like it turns on but no heat.

  14. My new LG IntaView Electric Range model LREL6325 That was purchased in February of this year gets white specs on the large front burner. Sort of like a hot spot but in white specs. Then it looks like dried on burn marks around the cooking element but the marks are not dried on – it appears to be in the glass. We use the correct pans and adhered to the manual instructions on operating and cleaning the cooktop. Does anyone know what the cause is? We have had two other cooktops and never, ever had any of these issues.

    • Mine is brand new and the rat front burner looks like white ashes are forming under the glass in the glass grid..told Lowe’s I want a new one.Waiting on it.If it happens again I will get a diff kind. Pete

  15. I have a LRE3083SB the cook top and oven stopped working at once , there are no errors and all the controls work as they should .

  16. I have an LG oven model number – LRE3194 that I’ve had a couple years. I am a baker and this oven has NEVER worked well! It doesn’t cook evenly, you can look at something and it’s not done and 2 min later it is burning. Why is there not any heating element on the bottom?? Only the tip?

    • We have an LG 3061 BD with same issues purchased in 3/2018. after several calls to LG and the Appliance Center in Sylvania, OH… there has been no resolve. Calls and emails to LG and Appliance Center within 6 months resulted in either no response or no remedy.

  17. Hi,

    My right front Glasstop burner will start up, and then when it starts to cycle it will not come back on. Sometimes it works, but most of the time, I have to turn it off wait a little an turn it back on. Same thing starts happening again. Burner is working, so I am thinking its something else?

  18. I have an eight year old Electric Range model #LRE3083ST. For a while the left front burner would not heat when I touched ‘on’. I just lived without it. A few weeks later I tried it again and it worked! Still working but now I have another problem. When I touch ‘on’ for the back left burner the front left burner also comes on automatically. What’s going on?

  19. We have a 4 year old LG LDE 4415 sst, Two of our surface elements are misbehaving, the right front literally runs at high heat even if set on SIM/LOW, and the left front burning seems to be during this intermittently running at high heat when the controls are set low. It seems to me that this is a switch problem more than element problem. Anything I can do to check this out before purchasing an attempting to replace switches first? Thanks in advance for any help. PaulD

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